Gearbox clearances

[buzzer]

Just rebuilding my TCS 5 speed box. Replacing seals cleaning and checking what I can. I am just setting up the crown and pinion clearance which is fine. But I have end float on the sun wheel shafts, the splined stubs.  This play appears to be within the differential. The play is about 15 tho I guess on both sides. The manual does not say much apart from use a different shim if the play is excessive. The box itself is in good condition. So any advice if this is ok or I need to strip it and address the play and what should the play/clearance be.

Thanks.
Dave

[jbcollier]

0.015" what direction?  In and out?  Total? Or both sides each have 0.015" play?

[EuropaTC]

Hi Dave,

I'll start off by saying I've never taken a Renault gearbox apart so whatever comments I make should be viewed in that light - ie wild guesses !

So, this end float/play. Is it pulling the splined output shafts going in/out of the differential/gearbox casing where you can feel movement ?  If so, it's a while since I replaced the seals on mine but I do seem to recall having a touch of in/out play but don't remember having vertical movement. 

I assumed (remember again - "never built one") that it was normal and controlled by that large finned alloy retaining ring in the casing. So I just made sure it stayed in the same position, mostly because I doubted I could improve on it and was hesitant of damaging the bearings if the clearances reduced when hot.   Afterwards when the outboard shims between the stub axle & yoke are in place it's rock solid but turns smoothly with no feel of binding or movement on the rear wheels, etc.

Brian

[buzzer]

On the movement it is in and out not up and down, so end float. It is not the main diff casing bearings. I must be missing something as to me the driveshaft load is taken through these sun wheel stubs transfers the load into the central diff casing. So any play inside the diff is transferred to the driveshaft. I also can't work out what the 'O' ring fitted on this sun wheel stub does.

Dave

[pboedker]

For each side, the driveshaft load from the yoke is going through the spacer ring to the differential casing and to the opposite differential bearing. You can pull out the driveshaft pins, and the loads will be exactly the same sort of "compression through the differential casing".

The 'O' ring seals the inside diameter of the spacer rings to the wheel stubs, while the outside diameter of same rings is sealed by the seals inside the bearing retainer nuts. The spacer rings turn with the wheel stubs, and only when one wheel is spinning will the inner side of the ring see a different speed than the differential casing and rub a little.

It is important that the 'O' ring seals are bottomed out correctly on assembly, i.e. inside the spacer rings. You might need to put the car onto the ground to help get enough force for this. Only when this is done, should you then measure how many shims are necessary for the alignment of the holes for the tension pins. Remember that the pins must never take any driveshaft load, they are only there to keep the driveshaft from falling off on full suspension drop.

[buzzer]

Peter,
Thanks for the reply, a really good explaination, I've got it now, was just looking at the shaft, I hadn't realised that there was an internal splined spacer that had a recess for the other ring, thought it was part of the shaft. I've got it now, all back on track.

[jbcollier]

Generally you shim the side and spider gears to zero play with no preload.  In practice, a slight amount of preload with gears turnable by hand, or a slight amount of play, is acceptable. 0.015" is excessive.