Handbrake cable attachment at rear wheel

[jjbunn]

I have been basting my cable in ATF/Acetone for a while, and still it is stuck.

On further investigation, I saw this (looking down inside the tunnel):



It looks to me like this will have to come out after all. The cable has come out of its crimp on the horseshoe on the LHS.

How does one detach the spring from the end of that threaded rod?!

Julian

[EuropaTC]

It will just slide out of you twist it round, if the rear cable is removed from the rear shoe arms there should be enough slack to allow quite a deflection.

There is the same arrangement with a hole in the chassis plate that the cables go through, depending how thin/flexible your arms are you might find that end easier to undo as on my car the hook/coil at the end of the spring is larger at that end.

If you can't move the rear cables the other way is to try to remove the tension by releasing the front cable through the access hole in the front plenum chamber.

Brian

[4129R]

Get a warm antiseptic hand wash ready as the bugs down there are bound to have conflict with the inevitable "gravel rash".

I detached the spring from under the engine using needle nosed pliers.

You could try detaching the offending cable from the drum lever to get about 1" of slack, and threading the cable back into the U and then using a cable tie to stop it happening again. 

[rascott]

i was able to remove the spring at the compensator(swing-tree, horseshoe) after disconnecting from the cables at the drum.
you may be fortunate the cable is already out of it's crimp, because uncrimping in the tunnel is painful.
perhaps the cable slot has that hole in it?
i ended up removing everything, and hung the rear cables, started running wd40 down the cables and was able to eventually free it up nicely. i have heard this may be just a temporary fix and note that any binding may overwhelm the springs on the brake shoes, but intend to see how long it will work(they really move "slick"- like new). reinstall was much easier after developing the disassemby techniques, so i won't mind doing that part again when i have too.
i used this wd40 treatment for the heater control cable and the clutch cable also.