Tie Rod Ends and Steering Rack Boots

[jjbunn]

While replacing the front brake hoses and pads, I became aware that the tie rod ends and steering rack boots looked a bit past it.



With new Spitfire boots and tie rod ends on hand, I'm going to replace them this weekend.

Question 1: what is the best way of ensuring I don't alter the alignment when replacing the tie rod ends? I read in the manual about screwing them on 25 turns, but that doesn't sound like the full story!

Question 2: when replacing the boots, should I slather the exposed rack ends in grease, or am I to use 90 weight oil?


Thanks!

[BDA]

You can try counting the number of revolutions it takes to take the rod end off and that should keep you pretty close. It becomes a question of "at exactly what revolution does the rod end come off the tie rod". When taking the rod ends off and putting them back on you will have to be very careful that the tie rods do not turn. I would still check the toe before and make sure it doesn't change after (or you correct it after). Here is a site that tells you how to measure the toe in with simple garage tools (http://www.miata.net/garage/alignment/).

As for lubing the rack, I used moly grease for mine but any good grease would be good. It doesn't look like the workshop manual calls for regreasing the rack but it certainly wouldn't hurt it. IIRC, you'll only be able to get to the driver's side rack teeth. I don't think the teeth of the rack get all the way out to the 'gater' or boot on the passenger side.

[LotusJoe]

I put a line on the tie rod. Then measure from that line to the center of the top of the tie rod end. Remove the old one and screw the new one on till I get to that measurement. Usually I'm pretty darn close.

[jbcollier]

Counting the turns only works when you are putting the original tie rod back on.  A new tie-rod is unlikely to exactly match the old one.  There are all sorts of tricks to get you close but, to get it right, you are going to have to set your toe-in when you're done.

[BDA]

You're right, JB! I wasn't thinking. 

[jjbunn]

OK - thanks for the advice. I remember doing the tie rod ends on an E-Type, and scribing a line on the tie rod a specific distance from the old tie rod end, then fitting the new one to the same distance. But I'm not sure that would work here.

[EuropaTC]

OK - thanks for the advice. I remember doing the tie rod ends on an E-Type, and scribing a line on the tie rod a specific distance from the old tie rod end, then fitting the new one to the same distance. But I'm not sure that would work here.

I think you'll be ok with that method.  It will be near enough to get you driving again providing you take the measure to the centre of the rod end,  directly above the pin/knuckle (or whatever the correct term is    ). If you measure to the either end of the rod it might be a bit off due to manufacturing styles if the new one has a thicker casting for the ball joint or a longer threaded section, but the centre point above the actuating pin should be good enough.

After all, setting the tracking isn't black magic and in it's most basic form it's just a guy with a ruler. (it might be a fancy ruler with lasers and mirrors, but it's essentially just measuring distances between the front & rear of a wheel)

Brian