new member

[rascott]

Richard,
    I'm really late to this party so I'll start with welcome to the committable ward.  At 63 I'm challenged just to see under the dash, LOL. It sounds like you're getting good information and JAE is a great place when one can't find a part in someone's garage. I have what is left of 41 years of used Europa parts. Sorry but my beautiful S2 peddles are going into my S1.
  Whit
Vista, CA

thanks for the howdy.
i'm sure my wife wonders about my commitabilty sometimes, but she puts up with my toy time, mostly.
i find, at sixty three, i can work under the dash if i take out the steering column and the seats.    haha.
trying to put another europa on the west coast roads, and having a good time at it.
jae--- santa Barbara? nd2check.
richard

[rascott]

my thanks for the suggestions, opinions, examples, and discussions.
i found that triumph spitfire master cylinders are rather inexpensive, so i bought one.
the pushrod that came with it looked like what i already had(mabe original?), so, i hooked it up to the reconditioned linkage arrangement.
this all looks fine, but i only have one of these banjo bolt fittings, so i'll try not using it.
i have started getting the hang of bending bundy, and may have the right lengths coming soon.
i also have a few odd clips and boots for the l/r brake wheel cylinder showing up.
still very interested in the remote reservoir, but need to source the proper parts. this triumph reservoir plugs into rubber grommets, unlike that poor cortina unit, and will work.
i am gonna need some lug nuts soon.

[jbcollier]

Use soft tubing to make the reservoir lines.  It should be a snug fit and you should bead the end so it can't easily come out.  This is a tubing header:

http://www.jegs.com/p/Earls/Earls-EZ-Beader/1140092/10002/-1

[TCS4605R]

I have used the EZ-Beader - it evens works on stainless steel tubing - like the coolant lines from the radiator to the engine

Tom
74 TCS - 4605R

[rascott]

i think i have "finalized" the brake master cylinder install, which forced me to "finalize" the pedal assembly.
one of the rear wheel cylinders is no good, but a replacement is expected via some wagon train.
mabe nothing will leak after that.
still interested in a remote reservoir, but unable to source any parts locally. trying to figure some adapter thing that could pin to the cylinder like this triumph one does........ mabe somebody makes one? my locals don't seem to understand why anybody would do such a thing.
i put some rubber pads on the pedals. we'll see how that works. think i'll do the same to the skinny pedal.

[BDA]

Re: remote reservoir

Go to tiltonracing.com and find a dealer near you. He should have or be able to get anything you need.

[Grumblebuns]

I don't understand why you're not using the Triumph integral reservoir. It would have a larger volume than most remote types.

[rascott]

i like the reservoir that came w/the cylinder, and am sure it will function, but it's at such a funny angle.
my thought was to make a mount bracket to pin it somewhere, run hose and wonder how to connect it to the cylinder.
this is where i become stupid.
the adapters i see from tilton fit somehow?
i don't grok how they stay in place or seal, but somehow they plug into the m/c?
i'll buy a couple so i can touch them.

[EuropaTC]

I felt the same way about using the OEM Triumph reservoir, because we mount the cylinder horizontal the fluid level will be compromised (less) than in the OEM design. On the Triumphs the master cylinder is fitted at an angle so the fluid level is parallel to the top surfaces.

You could mount it separately so that the filler cap is horizontal, or alternatively buy a new reservoir with a low level fluid switch already incorporated in the filler cap. Mine was from a British Land Rover and was pretty cheap. It does have an internal divider to keep both circuits separate so you won't drain it all  out if one circuit fails. Over here such things are easily available from Kit Car suppliers so I expect it will be likewise over there.

I used plastic 90 deg connectors to push into the rubber seals on the master cylinder. I bought them off Ebay, just measured up the OD of the reservoir stubs and bought accordingly. Initially I made some 90 deg bends with flared ends from aluminium tubing but wasn't happy with the fit and the plastic elbows, despite looking amateurish, are a more substantial fitting. To keep them from getting accidentally knocked I also made a shield from 1mm aluminium to go over the inner elbow & tubing, this is fixed in place using the holes which take the split pins on the original reservoir.

I used rubber hose between the reservoir/cylinder. I went completely OTT and used reinforced fuel tubing and fixed it in several places. There's no pressure so almost anything will do but I like things looking robust 

The pictures show the general arrangement and how the elbows fit. The second shot is the Elan but I used the same arrangement on the Europa and can get you some more photos of it in service if it will help. The Elan has been in service for a couple of years I guess, no leaks so it works.

Brian

[Grumblebuns]

That answers my question.

A couple of possible solutions, one is to find an extension cap similar to the SOVY container on the S2 Girling MC. It may give you additional volume. Another modification I've seen done, due to the non availability of replacement stock reservoirs, was to tap and thread the reservoir ports and use brass barb fittings for the  remote reservoirs.

[rascott]

this is all very helpful.
i was falling down the googleweb rabbit hole again, and did not order any "adapters", as i still can't see anything that seems real.
particularly pleased with brian's pictures, as my computer wouldn't show me all the pictures in the tech. article i kept running across.
i was playing w/some brass fittings, trying to do something like very much like that.
i should look into plastic, and consider those options also.
i will continue with my putterings.

anotherstep050515
got the rear wheel brake cylinders, so was able to reassemble some rear brakes. ready to wet the system.

blabla050615
wet the system. have some problem getting a banjo bolt to seal(i modified a ford bolt- it doesn't leak), but got some brakes.
mabe i can put the wheels back on soon. wonder if these rotten tires will still hold air if i replace the rotten valve stems.


upchk050815
banjo bolt leaks. get nice brakes, but keep finding leaks at the master cylinder. even my modified ford banjo seems to seep a bit.
tried a variety of sealing washers and fitting and refittings to no avail(?).
definitely flushing the system well, and going thru a lot of brake fluid doing it.
hooked up the heater to the cooling system while i gave it another coat of looking at.......
i may have to do away with the whole banjo bolt adapter idea and go back to making the tight bends in the bundy.
thought the adapters would be "neat", and they otherwise fit nicely, but..........
monkeyed with some muffler/tailpipe ideas to mabe make it a bit quieter, and see what sort of muffler action i can fit.

[BDA]

Sorry I didn't see this before...

Parker makes a great sealing washer called a stat-o-seal. It is a larger washer with a buna or neoprene inner O-ring built in. It's for places where there is no groove or relief for a normal O-ring. I used to get them from Earls Supply but if you don't have a dealer handy you can get a Parker dealer from their website (www.parker.com). This should work, but it is strange that a copper washer didn't seal it for you. I assume you made sure all the surfaces are clean and without burrs.

[rascott]

thanks for that info.
i bent up the bundy to fit without the banjos. kinda bummed me out, 'cause it had come out looking good.
now it looks like bent-up bundy.
mabe when i do the remote reservoir i will revisit this, but i am still mostly looking for function.
brakes seemed to bleed well again, and no leaks that i can find.
rotating equipment in the "shop" again- moved the tire "machine" in place for use.
i want to get it off these blocks.

abitl8tr
got the wheels on and removed the blocks.
dug up some garden for honey and fixed some fence.

lakoftime051815
seem to have some clutch, but have only found some forward gears so far. seems the shift linkage is stiffly loose.
also seems the fuel pump is spitting gas, so i didn't run it long.
the exhaust thing i cobbled together made it a bit quieter.
perhaps some road testing will happen next month.
i think i will register it.

cuplminuts052015
poking into the fuel pump a bit has me making a block-off plate, and going electric.
the existing carburetor has a leaky float valve (again). time for replacement, and it's time to get some throttle control.
charging system stopped charging for some reason that is probably my fault.
all is good and shaking out will continue in spurts. built more fence around the compound. still putting the steady in at the salt mine, also.

mordun052215
timeoff from the grind, so i swapped out the weber32dfm with a weber32/36dgv.
installed a pressure bleed with an early jeep fuel filter(wix33040) that i still need to figure out where/how to mount, and a little 3-5psi electric buzz pump.
still need to pull the ruptured mechanical pump and blind off that hole, but ran it for a while, and it sounds pretty good.
still need to put the steering wheel back on and find a reverse gear..............

smxtratime052315
a few minutes to install steering column/wheel, and some consideration for control of the carburetor...... visited a bicycle shop, but found no inspiration. checked a motorcycle shop with same results.

canthelpit052515
hung the flag out at half mast, did some yard work, watched the ball game, snuck in some europatime and tried some control cables for choke and throttle.
perhaps i have found where that reverse gear is, but i still need to look into the shift linkage- that center bunch is real sloppy. seems to have lots of play in some heim(?) joints.
mabe when my wife is done with an after giants game siesta, a movement test will happen. think it may kinda work........should be interesting.

testreport052615
moved around the driveway a bit. unsure about clutch, but can't find gears well enough to really tell what's happening.
several pieces of the shift linkage have been repaired with a welder, but now the relay lever ball joints aren't replaceable anymore.
parts is parts, and i decided to throw some money into linkage parts, so parts are being ordered.
had to report for duty this am- still the wage slave.

[rascott]

i'm working over the shift linkage.
had some difficulties getting it apart, but managed to make it happen. there had been some innovative repairs done.
it seems that a replacement actuator is not a commonly stocked part, but i can probably use most of the original.
i should have most of the other pieces soon, via rd enterprises(kudos, ray), so may gain control of the gearbox.
question:
is the "location link" supposed to be straight?
i can make mine so..........

[blasterdad]

question:
is the "location link" supposed to be straight?
i can make mine so..........

I'm assuming yours is a 336 trans... Mine is straight. The parts diagram also shows it straight.