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[EuropaTC]

not sure if i should use a windshield guy or just do it myself. this was the 1st windshield i've ever removed(intentionally).
i've never put one in before.

how hard could it be?

Actually, not that hard. It's helpful if you have another pair of hands but I've installed a few single handed, including the Europa. I used old sheets on the dash and then cleaned up the mounting areas with a wood chisel to remove old sealant, clean and degrease then it's just a case of pop it in.  Leave the sheets inside because I usually find some sealant dropping onto the dash top, but otherwise it's not as hard as you might think.  Personally I find taking out an old bonded screen more hassle than fitting a new one.

Brian

[rascott]

brian- thanks for the encouragement.
i've been giving it another coat of looking at.
somebody has to do some repairs to a piece of the window opening(some delamination) before the new glass......
i'll take some before/after shots.
that could be fun.
i look forward to having to put the window in.
i'll get my wife to video it.
that ought to be hilarious.
richard

[rascott]

i have stripped out the wire looms and pulled back engine control and sensor wiring.
fuel level works.
the oil pressure and coolant temperature gauges seem to function.
the charging system has me unsure.
when i was removing the wires from the back of the alternator, i had difficulty removing the field exciter wire from the odd place it was "plugged" into, and thought it was a bit odd and was going to be difficult to plug back in. turns out the wire was just crammed into a hole- mabe to keep it outa the way.
does this alternator look familiar? it doesn't have any id#'s on it, and mounts funny(?), and only has one terminal on the back w/ 2 terminals on the edge under a nice rubber plug.



i have no external regulator- just that relay near the coil.
?

[jbcollier]

Mid 70s AC Delco alternator with a built in regulator that has been converted to single wire operation.

[rascott]

Mid 70s AC Delco alternator with a built in regulator that has been converted to single wire operation.

o k- this is simpler than stock- just need to spin it fast enough to start charging, or run an ignition source to the regulator  to excite the field.
the relay is not necessary.
thank you for clearing this up!
next is to pull radiator fan circuit....

[rascott]

update


so the radiator fan needed to be coaxed into running- only broke two of the four studs that hold it to the radiator- found the brushes jammed with gunk, the wiring was all hacked up to fit another relay, but i made it work anyway.
did an oil dump, put the coolant hoses back on, new thermostat, filled it with water and ran it for @1/2 hr.
motor sounds good, oil pressure is good, temperature gauge doesn't see a sensor, but the radiator fan kicks on after warm-up.
i had hooked up an electric fuel pump for this test, and, while it was running, started flushing out the stock pump with solvent. it began pumping, so i switched back to it.
the distributor vacuum pot is bad and the carburetor needs attention(i have parts, and probably a newer model replacement).
the tachometer is not hooked up, as it was confusing me.
i found four forward gears in the gearbox. i couldn't find reverse and the linkage is real stiff(at least it moves).
i am quite pleased.
i have a scatter of sub-projects underway-
i have repaired the dash enough to support the windscreen frame(yes, it does!).

note that the right door has no latch, or cut out for one.....
a small repair to some dash support.
 
here's the windscreen frame problem. i will fix it and find a new windscreen and try and put it in.

i haven't started my pedal assembly solution yet, but the time has come to deal with it. i suspect the clutch plate is frozen to the flywheel.
the throttle, choke, and heater valve(which leaks thru some) cables are frozen.
i peeked at the rear brakes, since i had the wheels off, and saw they were in good condition once. i don't think the handbrake cables want to move.
she will be on the blocks for a while.
all in all, i'm o k with it. 

[BDA]

That's great progress! Doesn't it feel good when the engine fires up?

The door with no cutout fo the latch is a head scratcher! That shouldn't be a huge problem, but you obviously need to be careful when you do make the cuts.

You should check out the hinge pins. Normally they rust pretty badly and in severe cases can end up damaging the door or the body. Banks makes a really nice brass replacement system and r.d. enterprises sells a stainless steel replacement that is a copy of the original hinge system in case you need new hinge pins.

Keep up the good work and keep those pictures coming (larger ones would be nice).

[jbcollier]

Rad fan motor:  you'll notice the lip around the front compartment ends right over the rad fan motor.  When it rains, the water drips right onto the motor causing the issues you found.  Fabricate a deflector to direct the water a wee bit further on.  Lotus Ltd you used to sell them to members.

Tachometer:  it's a current sensing tach.  The ignition feed (white in early cars) is looped just beside the tach and there also needs to be a switched, fused power (green in early cars) and ground to the tach.

Shift linkage:  get under there and lube every joint before something breaks!  As long as nothing is too worn, you'll probably then be able to find reverse.

[rascott]

keep those pictures coming (larger ones would be nice).

both door require some attention. i have no idea if the window motors work, and there is a minor alignment issue w/the left door, +a bigger alignment, broken window channel thingy, the latch wonderment, and the quarter glass is out, on the right door.
i will be seeing those hinge pins soon.........
re:pictures-
i'm an old dog. the only way i know how to post pictures is w/my photobucket account, which i find annoying. i see that those pics turn into links to that account, where they can be blown up, but what a time waster.
how do you do it?

[rascott]

Rad fan motor:  you'll notice the lip around the front compartment ends right over the rad fan motor.  When it rains, the water drips right onto the motor causing the issues you found.  Fabricate a deflector to direct the water a wee bit further on.  Lotus Ltd you used to sell them to members.

Tachometer:  it's a current sensing tach.  The ignition feed (white in early cars) is looped just beside the tach and there also needs to be a switched, fused power (green in early cars) and ground to the tach.

Shift linkage:  get under there and lube every joint before something breaks!  As long as nothing is too worn, you'll probably then be able to find reverse.

radiator fan-
i see what you mean about the deflector. this must be why the leads are supposed to come from the bottom of the motor.
mine seems to have been mounted upside down. right in the flow.
tachometer-
i have been finding mystery splicing in the wiring. the tachometer was involved. i will look into it further and may request your electrical again- your tip on the alternator was spot on(i am exciting the field, but it will charge without it- just has to spin fast enough).
shift linkage-
definitely need some lube somewhere. in my pokings, i have been seeing a lot of interesting linkages. it would also help if i knew where reverse is..... i thought i'd be able to feel it, but......
thanks to all for the comments, suggestions.

[BDA]

keep those pictures coming (larger ones would be nice).

re:pictures-
i'm an old dog. the only way I know how to post pictures is w/my photobucket account, which i find annoying. I see that those pics turn into links to that account, where they can be blown up, but what a time waster.
how do you do it?

When you post, click on the link that says "Attachments and other options". Under where it says "Attach:" click on the "Choose File" button. It will prompt you for files to attach. You can choose more than one, but keep in mind, the max individual size is 1MB. I think there is a limit to the cumulative size, too. What I do (I have Windows 7) is display the picture and using the Snipping Tool (it comes with Windows 7 and probably later versions, too), capture the part of the picture - or all of it - that I want to post and save it as a file. This file will be much smaller than the one from your camera. There are probably photo editing programs that can do something similar. It may not sound like it's that much easier but it really isn't too bad. Of course if your picture size is less than 1MB, that's even easier!

[rascott]

been doin' some thinkinabout my next major focus projects.
i stalled my dashboard original idea when i stuck my blank up to the mounting position and thought i had done some real bad copying somehow. sticking the pieces of the original fascia in place made me realize the lower, middle section of the windscreen opening flexes "up".
so this is my thinkinabout:
i will need a windscreen for this thing or it will have to become a race car(a fate i may have "saved" it from), and I need to replace the fascia.
so i plan on tackling the opening repair, see if my old windscreen will fit(and presumably a new one), make the fascia and fiddle with dash cover, fitment, etc.
when i'm happy i can order a window from somewhere and move to next ..........
i still have to figure the picture thing.........
i kinda put the dash together....

this evening i took the wiper assembly out.

[rascott]

i fit the old windscreen back in, for practice(2 people would be good for the real thing) and to check overall fitment.
i'm a bit concerned about the amount of force the fascia is under to flex the windscreen opening into it's current position- as if some other support is missing.
i intend to remove the heater thing and look around under there.
and i have to start thinking cosmetics and see if the dash cover has to go in before a windscreen.
and the red "paint" that was applied to this poor thing is popping off all over the place- and it's real thick.
any ideas on paint removal?
mabe just a lot of sanding........

[BDA]

There are paint removers that are safe for fiberglass but after a friend of mine stripped the paint off a Corvette with paint remover that may or may not have been safe for fiberglass, I decided to use sandpaper and elbow grease. Paint remover would certainly be easier.

What sort of pressure is your fascia (or do you mean the crash pad?) under?

I have to admit that I did not install my crash pad or windshield. I had the interior shop that covered my crash pad install it and then I had the windshield installed. When my car was new, the crash pad was sticking up all along the windshield. I think there was someone who pop-riveted the crash pad under where the windshield (IIRC, the wrench at the Lotus distributorship where I used to hang out) seals against the body. The windshield installer put a bead of silicone along the bottom edge of the windshield and it looks pretty good and it also doesn't leak - not that I go out in the rain in my car much. Anyway, that's what I had done and it seems to have worked out well.

Good luck!

[rascott]

What sort of pressure is your fascia (or do you mean the crash pad?) under?

ahh! i am trying to learn the terminology. learned the dash is a fascia, and the dash cover is a crash pad.
so the fascia is "lifting" the body between the windscreen and the front boot a bit more than 1"(at the fascia) and takes some force to hold it in place to align the screw holes
i think this weekend i will play with fitting the crash pad.
mabe i can prop the body up so i can take the fascia on and off without distorting the windscreen opening.

i am noticing that some of the cooling system has been repaired with some 1" pvc pipe. it is labeled as good for cold water.
i guess it has been working..... is this the usual repair method?