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[blasterdad]

Yeah, that's the same one I mentioned above. He didn't sell it the last time.

Oops, thought the pics were different,  .
I can see why he hasn't sold it yet though, price is a bit high for an incomplete jack,
"classic" or not...

[rascott]

the throttle cable was not connected to the carburetor.
it appears to really be for a bicycle(?) and probably didn't work very well- it was routed over the tunnel and thru the bulkhead with the wiring......

it is attached to the pedal nicely, but the pedal assembly must have been removed to install it.
i'm not sure what the cable clamp was for.
seem to be doing more taking apart than putting together, so far, but it still seems to be forward progress.

[blasterdad]

the throttle cable was not connected to the carburetor.
it appears to really be for a bicycle(?) and probably didn't work very well

That's pretty much all they are, nothing fancy at all...
Good to see you're making progress...

[BDA]

As long as the cable has no slack, it should be fine. It certainly doesn't need to be strong and having a small cable makes it easier to make bends. I would guess that r.d. enterprises or Dave Bean would have replacements. On the other hand you could probably go to a bicycle shop, too. I went nutes and chose to use a pretty fancy push-pull cable from CableCraft. It's mega overkill and required some fab work. I like it but I don't necessarily recommend it. If you're thinking about upgrading it, at the moment, I can't think of anything in between that and the stock setup which, as I say, is perfectly adequate.

The picture's a little small to see the cable clamp in detail, but I'm pretty sure that it's something the PO thought was a good idea. Let common sense, the parts manual, and workshop manual be your guide.

[rascott]

this little renault does not have the stock carburetor on it- has a downdraft progressive weber.
the stock cable operated some linkage on the valve cover. it may not have fit the weber(?).
whatever the case, the cable doesn't move in the housing very well, and there are no cable mounting provisions.
i managed to remove the throttle pedal assembly, so i was able to disconnect the cable from it. 2 screws w/pal nuts hold it in. luckily one screw came out fairly easily.
the other one took many hours to remove.
i have made the fiberglass repairs around the battery mounting location.

the whole handbrake system seems frozen. does that pivot bolt(access from that well in front) have an inaccessible nut on it?
and what's with that well, anyway? is it all part of the heat/vent system? i originally thought it was like a little boot, but am not sure anymore.

[BDA]

It sounds like you'll need a new accelerator cable. Check the JF page (oddly enough in the brake section) of the parts manual for some pictures to give you an idea of how that ends fits together.

As for the hand brake, it's probably very similar to the TC. The umbrella handle has a cable that connects to a bell crank. The pivot of the crank is on the frame backbone. A cable is attached to it that goes to a "shoe" where another cable is connected to both rear brakes. It's probably locked up at the pivot point on the frame and there should be an access hole with a rubber cover in the front trunk.

I'm not sure what you mean by "well".

[Grumblebuns]

The pivot bolt for the handbrake bell crank is accessible under the large rubber plug in the front trunk. I had a hell of a time removing the bolt. Had to resort to an impact wrench to finally remove it.

[rascott]

yes-
that's the bolt. if it's like most of the fasteners it won't be easy.
lucky i don't do this for a living.......
so that "well" is a trunk.
it seemed to be somehow a large plenum for the heater- fan blows into it from the front section, ducting to vents.
i must not be looking at it right, and not much is still there. it'll come to me(mabe) as i play w/it.
i've been taking advantage of some fine weather.

[BDA]

Yes, it's both a front boot and a plenum for the ventilation system. When it's hot, you can fill it with ice!

[rascott]

ha ha
i didn't know it had air conditioning!
and thanks(grumblebuns) for the tip on the pivot bolt- that pivot doesn't.
i did put the fuel tank in, and leak tested it by filling it w/gasoline. i think i can claim a successful piece of project.

i fed the renault some fuel and find the fuel pump doesn't pump. i will take it off(i keep taking more apart all over this thing!), disassemble it and see why.
i have a nice little electric fuel pump that i know the weber would like.......that plus one of those old jeep fuel filters for the pressure regulation......, so i'm not concerned.
i am starting to pay more attention to the cooling system in my "rootings".
still need to figure out the charging system, and see if any of these gauges work.....go back to my idea for a "dash for now" to hold them.
it has been @40 years since my last english wiring experiences. this is done better.
looking forward.

[BDA]

Congratulations on your fuel tank! That is good news.

If you're going to make any changes, you might get a copy of the Lucas wiring standard. It really is good and things will make more sense when you look at it later.

[Grumblebuns]

One possibility that your fuel pump is mot pumping is a plugged up pickup tube at the bottom of the tank. One way to check is to blow into the tube or suck some fuel out with a Mityvac vacuum pump if you have one.

When you had your tank out, I was wondering if you did a resistance check on the fuel sender to see if it was working? The other thing I would check is to see that the float did not have a hole it. Mine did and the PO replaced it with a wine bottle cork.

[rascott]

yah- i got fuel to the pump, it just doesn't go any further from there. i popped the cap off the inlet screen, cleaned the interesting stuff outa there, but......the discharge needed "reaming", but....i will have to go into it more.
I'm pleased with the tank install. made some rubber mounting cushions and it snugged up very nicely.
the level sensor makes my OHMmeter work, and indicated function as spec., so i may be lucky.
the float. i stared at that for a long time. it has some fluid in it. i warmed it up and found no sign of a leak, am sure it will float(for a while?), so i put it back in.
did your p o do anything to seal the wine cork?
i'll bet some epoxy would work- i have vague memories of finding something like that in the past.
oh oh, i sound like a geezer.

i have used the low volume electric pump/jeep filter combo with carburetors. the filter has a bleed port back to the tank, so the float needle doesn't get overwhelmed and flood the carb. i'm using it on my suzuki('89 sidekick, slightly modified).

morstuf011215
i have been experimenting with a temporary dash, and as i was checking fitment, found that the windscreen opening is affected by the lack of dash support. if the windscreen was seated properly(i think) it would hold things together with the dash removed.
my window was mostly popped out except for the bottom.
i took it out. cracked and all, it came out in one piece.
not sure if i should use a windshield guy or just do it myself. this was the 1st windshield i've ever removed(intentionally).
i've never put one in before.

how hard could it be? 

[rascott]

If you're going to make any changes, you might get a copy of the Lucas wiring standard. It really is good and things will make more sense when you look at it later.

bda- this is a good suggestion, and i found a copy(and a readable wiring diagram).
some of this spiderweb still seems to be in o k shape, at first glance.
it will give me something to putter with.
thanks

[BDA]

rascott,

This forum has nice color wiring diagrams. You might also want to look at wiring diagrams here (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/).

Here is a site that documents the Lucas standard (http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0014.html).