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[BDA]

mornotes021216
electric speedo and matching tach have not been cooperating. must be something in my wiring, as they operate erratically.
i suspect the ignition switch, but am replacing the little bits of original wire i had been using(for convenience), and revisiting the circuit grounds. think i'll replace the keyed switch anyway.
may have to drive it to work for another week to keep the driveway clear...

Sorry I just noticed this and you may have mentioned this before but what sort of ignition do you have? I had an optical ignition that didn't play well with the stock electronic tach - the tach would bounce erratically above about 3000 rpm . I changed to Pertronix ignition and it works great. On the other hand, I've heard of some who have problems with the Pertronix!

[rascott]

just replaced the ignition coil with an msd blaster2(and resistor), for a bit hotter spark.
the distributor is the original ducellier, with points, condenser, but no vacuum pot- alpine-america special.
non resistor rotor, solid core wires & ngk plugs.
seems to idle easier w/the new coil, but i haven't driven it.....
tried to get some tech help re:tach...... ended up w/a rma#.
not a good sign, so i'm looking at more expensive options.
talking expensive, i see my steering investigation is disabling "the lotus" as i try to replace a tierod(+adapter, 'cause it won't come off), and the lower wishbones have hit a few squirrels, and some of the bushings are missing, some different size bolts hold it together, and i'm collecting more parts.
hmmm

[BDA]

I'd have to guess, but I suspect the MSD is causing your problems with your tach and speedo. If so, possibly there is an electric fix for it.

[rascott]

i changed the coil to convince myself it wasn't a cause of the tach oddity.
the old one was an old one, and the terminals were cruddy. it ohm'd o k though.
the new one looks better, has clean terminals, and the motor runs fine.
these gauges bother me, but i was being cheap and now realize the penny foolish thing.
i have degraded that project, as it requires ponderin'.
had a bit of difficulty removing the steering rack, but finally got the corrosion to release the last bolt. figured out how the tierod comes off.
i might as well see how the suspension comes apart, and see what i can straighten and reuse.
mabe i will have it back together in a few days.
haha

[buzzer]

On your tacho problem, I had a similar one on my cross flow in my Westfield.  Erratic revounter in my case over about 5k. What solved it was a resistor soldered in series with the pick up. I'll try and dig our the info on it as it was a few years ago now.  Basically to clean up the signal.

Dave

[rascott]

On your tacho problem, I had a similar one on my cross flow in my Westfield.  Erratic revounter in my case over about 5k. What solved it was a resistor soldered in series with the pick up. I'll try and dig our the info on it as it was a few years ago now.  Basically to clean up the signal.

Dave

thanks, dave.
i got a "filter" from the tech-reps because of the old school distributor, but it seems to totally filter the signal. not sure what is in it, but it's more than just a resistor
these are from an outfit called glowshift. i've used some of their stuff in the past, and thought them a bargain(but a bit flashy).
i was not expecting this......

besides022716
got distracted by the steering, and plan on getting the new tierod on the rack.
got distracted by the front suspension as i was contemplating the steering, so that made me take that all apart.
kinda kool figuring it out, but things have been hammered pretty badly.
the lower- and particularly the front- wishbones are a bit tweaked. some of this could probably be straightened, but two of 'em are way schetchy.
i am wondering if i can replicate something like what these used to look like....

the right side was worse than the left, and some wallering had gone on with that shock, and most of the bushings were mostly mia.
a mix of fasteners were used.

[BDA]

Yup, I'd advise that you not use those! I just check rd and they don't have any lower arms so it looks like you'll probably have to go with tubular ones. A shame, too, because I think it's better to use the original lower arms because I think they're more likely to be bent in a crash thus serving their purpose of saving the frame.

[rascott]

it's better to use the original lower arms because I think they're more likely to be bent in a crash thus serving their purpose of saving the frame.

those original style ones were probably called upon to perform that function several times(i found the box of previous front end repair parts), and mabe the frame is still straight. i think the nose has been replaced- mabe more than once.
i have seen pictures of those "tube" replacements. they look like they may be stronger.
this downtime will be longer than i had anticipated.
i want to drive it a bit more before pulling the drivetrain out.
i appreciate opinions on bulkhead(firewall) repair.....

[BDA]

I don't have a lot to say about the firewall. I took the insulation off of mine and then put a layer of glass cloth on the firewall and then attached a foam rubber/mylar insulation I got from J.C. Whitney. I just didn't want to go to the trouble of taking the firewall out. I've heard of some people replacing the firewall with marine plywood and others have been more aggressive with the fiberglass. I also put a door in the center above the backbone to allow access to the cam belt and water pump. I don't know if something like that is worth it for the Renault motor - I suspect not. You might do a search for 'firewall' on the knowledgebase (http://lotus-europa.com/ekb.html) or alternately do the same search on the yahoo group messages (https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/lotuseuropa/conversations/messages).

[RoddyMac]

I've replaced mine with plywood glassed on each side.  The original was so far gone that you could lightly push through most of it.  Getting all of the remaining bits out was a messy task, but now that it's replaced it's much nicer.  I had thought about going with a composite and foam core firewall, but the the plywood was cheaper and easier.

[rascott]

i appreciate the firewall comments.
the ply seems like a good way to go, as i can see how this dissolving stuff was just taped in, and cutting the panels/re-bonding seems pretty straightforward, and i like the "heat shield" treatment thought for the engine side. time for a look at jcw(online catalog is not like the paper one), it's been a while.
the hatch- hmmmmm. let me think of a reason....
otherwise-- trying to sort out what parts are real, and which ones are wannabees in that front suspension, 'specially the fasteners, so i can start collecting........
...... and shifting "the shop" to allow access to the arbor press, so i can practice squashing bushings in/out of wishbones.
all is good.

[BDA]

I just did a quick search on jcwhitney.com and they don't appear to sell the stuff I got. I did a google search for 'automotive heat sound insulation' and one of the things I got was this: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DES0/050130/N1805.oap?ck=Search_N1805_-1_-1&pt=N1805&ppt=C0379

You might be able to find something locally. Remember to get some good mylar tape to seal the insulating material from the elements - you don't want your foam to get soggy!

[buzzer]

On my Firewall I make up a lightweight sandwich of a honeycomb and laid it up on both sides with fibreglass. Used a sheet of wood on which I laid a flat sheet of polypropylene sheet, then laid up I think 3 layers of fibreglass, then placed the honeycomb on. let this set. The took it off the sheet. laid up another 2 layers then place the already set honeycomb down on the the sheet and weighted it down till it set.
trimmed this to shape and glassed it into the car. I then used a sheet of ally riveted in from the engine compartment.
dave

[Chuck Nukem]

If you find any stock lowers let me know! I am in the same boat as you!!

[rascott]

i like the honeycomb/laminate thing, and wanted to mabe do some sound deadening at the same time.
and thought a firewall blanket stapled on the engine side.
re:hatch... there is a sizable "dead space" behind the right seat, since there isn't a tank there, and i was thinking of relocating the battery down there.
a bit out for contemplation, as i intend to "test" the front suspension before pulling the drivetrain.
re:wishbones... no matter how i sort my pieces, only one side works. i'm gonna try the aftermarket lowers, so  there should be a pair of type54 lowers available, for those purists. they look straight-could use bushes. i'll let u know how that goes......
trying to decipher some steering rack adjustments.
thinking positive.

oklukingd030916
think the rack service went well. setup a new tierod and adjusted the other, greased appropriate looking parts, and replaced the boots.
still need to add the tierod end/adapters, and clean and treat some accessible chassis, before the rack goes back.
still gathering front suspension parts.......