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[EuropaTC]

 Now if that's your first shot at bending pipe, then I reckon you're doing pretty well. I always like it when folks make/borrow/bodge equipment so that they can do things themselves, mainly because with these old cars I can see a time when you might have to DIY.

Brian

ps nothing, but nothing is "permanent" with these cars ....   

[rascott]

i made pieces of cooling tube to fit thru the chassis.
they fit nicely, and are cushioned with some split 3/16"fuel hose for grommets.
i bent up the cold side so it would come out of the chassis straight, so wiggling it in was interesting.
gave me the excuse(necessity)to remove the gearshift stuff to make that work.
what is the deal with the handbrake cable entry in the rear of the chassis?
they come in directly below the coolant tubes, and the front cable(and horseshoe) pulls from above, so something will rub- either the rear cable or the horseshoe.
as near as i can figure.
i opted for the horseshoe rub option.....(?)
if the rear cable chassis holes were located above the tubes........(?)
i don't get it- must be missing something, or this is expected?

[BDA]

It's been a long time for me, but I think you have the idea (that it may not have been the best idea). It looks like things are coming along pretty nicely! Keep it up!

[rascott]

i will carry on, as if everything is fine.....
this is the squiggly cold side engine compartment cooling tube.
looks weird until it's in place.

[BDA]

It doesn't matter what it looks like here. It's how it works in the car. It looks good to me, anyway!

[EuropaTC]

For a home made job I think that's impressive. It does look odd just lying on the floor though, can you imagine the comments from the first bloke on the shop floor to make one ?  I bet they were hinting at the tobacco choices of the designers.....   

Brian

[rascott]

haha.
at least i had a piece to copy for my first try, and the quality of the bends seems comparable, some wrinkle on tight inside bend- just like the original.
the other sections were more interesting, and required a lot of test fitting, and i couldn't find anyplace that may have fastened the cold side(engine end) to the chassis(so i made one), but it all seems to fit nicely.
i am pleased with the bending capability.
i'm starting my new version of a pedal assembly- with more appropriate material.
mabe i'll be able to do some drivetrain testing again in a couple of weeks- i fear i will need to look into the clutch.
it feels like a solid hunk in there.........mabe something will break loose when i spin it some more.

[jbcollier]

The return pipe does not need to fasten to the chassis. The feed pipe does because it is a straight shot through the frame and can easily turn from side to side.  The return pipe's chassis holes are offset and this provides a significant resistance to twisting.  It doesn't hurt to add a chassis mounting tab but it's not necessary.

[rascott]

The return pipe does not need to fasten to the chassis.

this is as i was sorta figuring, but only had drawings to look at.
this has become a four piece cobble, and i still wonder what triggered the original modification.
i added a mount tab for the squiggly one so it wouldn't be hung just with hose.
seems the return tube could have run straight thru the chassis also(?), but there are no appropriate holes in the front.
i had to crink that one to make it come thru the chassis "straight", so mabe the stock had similar bends?
i probably wonder too much.
i appreciate the input as i play with my toy!
ended up with 1 1/4x.065 steel tube for those pieces, btw.


acemblenotes040415
actual progress on the cooling system.
found some molded hoses to cutup for the upper and lower radiator connections, decided to bypass the heater core and heater valve, and replaced the temperature gauge transmitter.
should hold water.
i believe i have repaired the crankcase ventilation valve- took it apart and cleaned it. didn't realize it could be done.......
also reinstalled the radiator fan and controls, with mostly new wire.
replaced wire for the temperature transmitter and ignition circuits, and began serious rewire of the instruments.
perhaps i will try another function test soon.

lookn'at040915
some function testing results.
there are some coolant tubes sticking out of the cylinder head(left side, f/r) that may have fed a water choke carb(?), and i was just looping them with some hose and tube(as found). it seems a good place to bleed air out of the cooling system, and may come up with a bleed valve for it. i have found the waterpump will airlock easily. bleeding at the heater hoses doesn't seem to do it very well.
seems the temp sender works, and will read very hot.
getting the "shop" re-arranged again to massage some metal into pedal pieces.
also preparing to look into doing some ignition service- still collecting parts.
still eyeballing that carburetor.
i think i will need a muffler before i run it again when the wife is home. and the neighbors would probably like it, too.

weldon041115
got the "shop" shifted, and have begun active pedal assembly parts making. making a much beefier version this time.
i think i have the base, clutch shaft, and brake sleeve figured, and am beginning to cut the pedal arms and pads.

stilweld041215
managed to almost complete the pedal assembly(still need to make a travel stop for the clutch pedal).
feels much better, being more substantial material......

[blasterdad]

i fear i will need to look into the clutch.
it feels like a solid hunk in there.........

My clutch was packed FULL of mouse nests, (chewed up firewall insulation).
There is a hole at the top of the bellhousing you can see into, I also removed the lower front cover to let debris come out while blasting compressed air down through the top hole.
I got enough out for the engine to turn over & run, but the clutch still needs to come out & be replaced.

[rascott]

i'm pleased to report no rat nest in the clutch.
got excited to have a more solid pedal assembly, made the engine run again, and found some clutch function.
between start tests, i poked thru the ignition- replaced pts, cond, cap, rotor, &wires.
interesting- the manual insists the distributor rotates anti-clockwise. mine doesn't.
the static timing routine confused me, until i ignored the manual's clock.
my temperature gauge reads climbing temperature, but ends up pegging before the fan thermoswitch triggers. this is with a new transmitter, so.........it does seem to be getting hot, as if poor circulation(?). has a new thermostat.......
anyway, more refining and function testing will come, as time allows.

[BDA]

It sounds like you're making great progress!! Hearing the motor run for the first time is a real thrill!! 

Check to make sure your thermostat isn't stuck and that your radiator is getting hot. Also check your fan switch in a pot of water with a thermometer to make sure it is working. The fan runs. etc.

Keep up the great work! It will be grand when you're finished!

[jbcollier]

"interesting- the manual insists the distributor rotates anti-clockwise. mine doesn't"

Yup, well known misprint.

[rascott]

had a bit more time, and looked into that linkage box between the master cylinder and the brake pedal.
found a big furry mess that didn't move real well......
also, the circlip that holds the piston in the cylinder was not seated(loose on the shaft), and what used to be a rubber boot.
probably salvageable, if i don't destroy it in disassembly.
i'll attempt a cylinder rebuild.

[jbcollier]

If it dies, I have a good condition spare that I bought on spec and don't need.  You can have it for:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l91ISfcuzDw

Or, maybe a bit less...