Plumbed fire extinguisher system

[StephenH]

Considering installing a plumbed in fire suppression system so looking for ideas from and experience of others.

I know Lou Drozdowski has installed a system: http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=699.msg4669#msg4669
Also Mecky: http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=508.0

Couldn't find much detailed information elsewhere in the forum threads other than those two.

Considerations.
Size: probably 2.5kg although maybe 4kg.

Position: I don't really want to mount the bottle in the cabin as space is already tight with a small (900gram) fire extinguisher mounted in front of the passenger seat. So will probably mount in the engine bay or perhaps in the front storage area.

Release: Most systems I have seen are mechanical cable release, some are electric.
I like the electric idea in that it perhaps means more freedom with mounting both the bottle and the release points, however mechanical is simple.

Nozzle positions: Plumbing to cabin as well?
I plan to keep the small FE in the cabin anyway, but wondered about plumbing a larger system into the cabin as well.
Or as a part redundant system use 2x remote release systems?

Other thoughts, suggestions, comments?

[Lou Drozdowski]

Stephen, Good idea...either way you decide where to put your system front or rear, and will use the extra plumbing for the cabin go with the larger bottle. In my case the standard system came with three nozzles, 10 ft. of tubing and a 15 ft. cable. I decided not to go electric for fear of Lucas " Prince of darkness" syndrome.

Safecraft was the best option as far as price and types of agent...I got the Circle /Sprint car system for about $350...prices have gone up a little since my purchase but it is still worth the investment. Location in the front would be the easiest to accommodate the cockpit as you can go directly to the under dash. Another area I was contemplating was in the engine bay  behind the rear wheel arch cavity. ld   

[jbcollier]

Just going down the same road myself and have done lots of research:

- Europas that catch fire primarily do so from engine compartment fires involving fuel.

- You have to remember that once the fibreglass starts, it is very difficult to extinguish, even for the pros, as it supplies its own oxygen when burning.

- The primary purpose of any race fire system is to get you and your's out safely, saving the car is entirely secondary.

- Gas systems (halon and halon substitutes) can ONLY be activated when you have come to a complete stop (otherwise normal air circulation at speed just sucks it away).

- Gas systems do not prevent re-ignition once the gas dissipates.

- Foam systems involve some clean-up while gas does not.

- Foam systems will freeze in cold temperatures.

- ALL systems require periodic maintenance: (pressure tests every xyz years, regular line and nozzle checks).

- None of them will work with the safety pins in place !!  Unbelievable how common it is to have a system in place but locked out.  Use a "remove before flying" tag on all pins).

- Electric systems use a battery pack which requires activation before use and all the maintenance that goes with batteries (lots of people forget to activate their systems).

- Nozzles in the passenger compartment must be aimed down and mounted no higher than chest height.  The last thing you need when fire breaks out is to be blinded.

- Firing mechs must be in easy reach when belted.

I am going with foam as it stays active even when the tank is depleted and can be fired at speed (still best to wait until stopped).  It will be a large (4l) system as I wish to try and save the car as well as myself and passenger.  Nozzles will be concentrated in the engine compartment at the carbs and tanks.  It will be mechanical so there is not another battery to maintain, regularly charge and replace.  I will carry a small extinguisher but that is for other burning vehicles I might encounter.  If my vehicle is on fire, just remembering to undo my seatbelt will be stressful enough.

[jbcollier]

Forgot to mention, you also need a battery/ignition/fuel cut-off with-in easy reach.  I am installing a ground circuit battery cut off switch with built in ignition cut off (so the alt doesn't keep things running).  I'm also fitting an inertia switch in the fuel pump circuit.

[StephenH]

Thanks for the input.

I need to stick with dry powder due to local (Australian) motorsport requirements and the plumbing has to follow FIA guidelines.

Not so fussed myself on the electrical concerns, I have been working in electrical and electronics applications requiring reliability for more than 35years.
Certain I can setup the electrical side to work if needed.
Cables are simple but also have failure modes.
Need to read the FIA guidelines in detail first to make a decision on operation type.

The battery isolator and ignition kill are already in place inside, although I might add external cables for these.

[jbcollier]

I'm leaning to gas now as the foam systems require major maintenance every two years.  That's fine for a race car where everything has a timed maintenance interval but less convenient in a street vehicle.