Never a straight line

[BDA]

I was wondering why there was some fur behind my dash! But I was really confused when I thought a saw a furry creature scurrying behind my tool chest! Maybe I need another cat in my garage!

[blasterdad]

Are you putting in your new switch in an attempt to kill that gremlin?
(Thought I'd ask back here in your thread), or going the extra mile & adding a relay also?

[BDA]

The first thing I did was try the switch by itself. So far, no joy, but I'm checking to make sure I hooked it up correctly (actually, I got side tracked and found the letter the engine builder sent about my engine and transcribed the important parts into a document so hopefully, I'll be less likely to lose it!). After that, I may tackle the relay project. The switch is pretty heavy duty so it's designed to take full current (of sealed beams, anyway - however, I have halogens) so I don't think there is a rush but it is definitely the way to go.

[blasterdad]

As they say,"a job begun is half done". I'm sure it won't beat you...
As far as being easily side tracked I excel at it,
I'll go to take the trash out and end up declaring war on the moles in my yard with a pitchfork. 
Drives the Mrs. nuts...

[BDA]

Blaster, you give me far too much credit!

I did find out what my problem was. I think I know why but I'm not sure.

I checked the voltage at the battery and without the cables, it gave me ~12.4v but when I hooked the cables up, I had about 5v. I had changed the battery so I didn't suspect it, but when I put the original battery back in, it cranked up. So something was causing my original battery to go flat. I did notice that I need to adjust the alignment on my alternator belt as it was getting chewed up. Hopefully, I didn't ruin a bearing. I also noticed that my alternator belt was loose. It's starting to look like the belt got loose so the alternator didn't turn enough to charge the battery. The last time I drove the car was for about an hour or so at night so without the alternator, I could have drained the battery.

If someone has an alternative (say one that discounts the possibility of a loose alternator belt), I'd be really like to hear it because I'm not fully convinced that is the whole problem.

[blasterdad]

Hmmm, there should be no change in voltage when the cables are hooked up & everything is off, sounds like you have an open circuit somewhere, if you suspect your alternator isn't charging I would try to unhook it and see if you're still getting a voltage drop, the rectifier diodes may be shot. The shade tree mechanic way to test the alternator is to pull the positive post off the battery while it's running, it should stay running if it is charging. An auto parts place will also check it for free. You could also remove one fuse at a time & check for a voltage drop to narrow it down...
This is just stuff coming to mind, not to say you didn't already know...

[jbcollier]

That technique is only recommended if you have a generator.  Disconnecting the battery while the engine is running can create a voltage spike which will fry your alternator.  You need, at the very least, a voltmeter to test an alternator.  Hook up the voltmeter across the battery.  Start the engine and note the voltage reading at idle and at 3K.  Turn everything on: wipers, heater fan, lights, turn signals, etc.  Note voltage at idle and at 3K.  Shut everything off and then the engine.  Modern HO alternator should maintain the voltage between 13.8 and 15.0 volts.  Original alternator may see the voltage fall fully loaded at idle but should be normal at 3K.

There's a lot more to test but that requires equipment not usually at hand in a home workshop.

[BDA]

Thanks guys. I didn't mention that I put in a freshly charged new battery and was able to crank the starter and turn on the headlights. So that would narrow it down to the charging system, I think. I'll check out the alternator as you suggest, John, but first, I'll put the interior back together. I certainly have a knack for making a simple problem into a complex one!

I am glad I got the new headlight switch. This one is much better!

[EuropaTC]

I'll go and take the trash out and end up declaring war on the moles in my yard with a pitchfork.

At the risk of a temporary hi-jack, that's a subject close to my heart. We've got an army of the little    "creatures" doing artistic things on our only patch of grass that might be described as a lawn.  Jasper Carrot (a 1970/80s comedian coming from the Birmingham, UK, area) has summed up exactly how I feel.......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fePU5CIHpas

Poor quality because it's quite an old sketch, but if you have moles, you'll get it !

Brian

[BDA]

I get it! We have experience with moles here, too. The only way to get rid of them is to put chewing gum in the holes. They got to eat it and it gets stuck in their stomach and they die! Much better than mothballs and garlic! 

[BDA]

Back to cars...

I think I need to adjust the alignment between my alternator and the cam pulley on my car (the setup is just like a twink but I have a BDA instead). The belt was worn quite a bit on one side (the side toward the rear) and there was a lot of shaved belt material on the bell housing. I thought the pulleys were aligned but I guess I was wrong. The problem is that I'm not sure how to align the two pulleys. There is no place on the head where I can easily measure the distance to the belt because the cast surface isn't really flat across that area. In fact, I tried to measure what appeared to be a flat surface and it implied that the alternator pulley needed to be moved further toward the front of the car (that should put more stress on the rear face of the belt, right?). Measuring against the bell housing doesn't seem practical since it is so far away.

Any ideas on how to do this?

[blasterdad]

The alignment on mine is horrible, as you can see!
I'm not sure if your setup allows you to do this, but by measuring from the front of the belt to the straight edge on both pulleys mine is out of alignment by a quarter of an inch!
I've also developed a pretty good "eyeball" over the years from being a carpenter, you can see the belt from the the water pump to the alternator is straight...


 

[BDA]

I'm not sure you can use a straight edge against the pulleys because they may not be the same width (or distance from the center). In any case, that's difficult for the TC (and my car) because the alternator pulley is almost against the head. Here's a picture of the situation.

[blasterdad]

kinda thought yours would be different, looks like the ol' "eyeball", trial & error, & common sense will be your best bet.
Moving the alternator forward, (towards the front of the car) would put more pressure on the rear of the alternator pulley & less on the rear of the cam pulley, (which is actually the front of the cam pulley, looking at it from the back of the car). If I am confusing you with this explanation don't worry because I confused myself just trying to write it.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about getting it absolutely perfect, just as close as you can. A belt is going to wear regardless.
At least yours is a lot closer than what I've got going on!
Maybe someone else will chime in with a trick or two...

[BDA]

Thanks, blaster! I'll just continue with my trial and error... I used the eyeball method before, but I guess my eyeball is lacking. I certainly didn't think it was that far off. Oh well... Ok now. I'm ready! I'm going in!