Author Topic: SHOCKS? Front end suspension  (Read 118 times)

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Offline MAK

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SHOCKS? Front end suspension
« on: Monday,April 14, 2025, 12:29:17 PM »
Over the weekend took the out for 2 quick road trips 24 miles on a windy hilly road trip, didn't push it very hard, still getting used to the car.  1st gear is still a struggle, couple of time just couldn't find it at all - at a stop sign I backed up some traffic till finally found it.  Have to get that sorted out - my OCD can't live with it.
the other issue is that the car is sweet till I break 55mph then it all of a sudden becomes very twitchy, and steering is immediately quick - is this normal or per BDA "If your car feels vague or nervous or like it will jump several lanes if you move the steering wheel the slightest bit, you may need new shocks."

Will have this looked at, along with the fuel lines when the 1st gear issue is being investigated. While the engine, clutch and water pump were addressed, I have a feeling that not much else has been done to the car in a while, at least 6 years that I know of. 

Just so everyone understands I have the mechanical ability of a Nat, if that - so the learning curve could be huge.
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Online BDA

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Re: SHOCKS? Front end suspension
« Reply #1 on: Monday,April 14, 2025, 01:08:31 PM »
It is definitely not normal for the car to be suddenly, or even gradually, nervous at 55mph. When my car was new, I routinely drove 90mph on the highway (thanks to CB radios!) and it was very stable.

I would first start with your suspension. Check that every connection is tight and your bearings are in good shape. Try to move all your wheels at 90° and 270° and at the top of the wheel. You should feel no movement. Check the condition of all the bushings and the the leading radius arm mounts. Then check alignment at a reliable shop or using the string method (enter measurements in this page: https://robrobinette.com/DIYAlignmentCalculator.htm). Remember that the spec for rear toe (1/4" to 1/8") is for one wheel. If you still have instability, check your shocks by taking them off and unless you have access to a shock dyno, try compressing and extending the shocks by hand to determine if the resistance feels similar. If there is a noticeable difference, you either need to rebuild them or get new. I can't help you with rebuilding them but if you want to try that, I might suggest that MG lever shock oil is available at retail from places like Moss Motors.

I've attached document I copied from Carroll Smith's book Tune To Win in case that's helpful.

Edit: Just a reminder to bring a copy of the alignment specs to your shop if you go. It's unlikely their computer will have Europa data.
« Last Edit: Monday,April 14, 2025, 01:46:23 PM by BDA »

Offline EuropaTC

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Re: SHOCKS? Front end suspension
« Reply #2 on: Monday,April 14, 2025, 01:28:55 PM »
Hi there, it's good to see you getting to grips with the new toy.....

You might need new dampers but equally it could be wear and tear in the suspension components or simply that the car wheel alignment isn't set up properly. Because these are relatively light cars, getting the correct wheel alignment and even balancing the wheels becomes very important. But once set up properly it should be very stable, you shouldn't have to fight to keep it on a straight line.

First thing I would do is lift each corner and feel for play at the wheel, checking for suspension wear.  In theory there should be very, very slight play at the front from the adjustable taper roller wheel bearings but nothing at the rear. At the front I find the upper ball joints and track rod ends last well, nylon bushes in the brass trunnions are a repalceable item and I recently had problems with the bushes in the dampers collapsing, poor quality replacement parts.

At the rear, with the driveshaft forming the upper link to the suspension you have 4x UJs plus rubber bushes in the lower links and holding the trailing arms to the chassis, loads being resolved through the gearbox & engine mounts, you have lots of places for slight wear which can add up to "too much", so be very critical in your assessments.

All good ? Then get the geometry checked against the workshop manual. You'll find that some owners prefer different settings, more or less rear toe with toe-in/toe-out or parallel wheels at the front, but for now set it as Lotus intended because that will work. Rear toe in is high compared with modern cars, if you take it to a shop for them to check make sure to take the manual settings with you.

Brian
Edit to add - beaten to it again !!!   :)

Online BDA

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Re: SHOCKS? Front end suspension
« Reply #3 on: Monday,April 14, 2025, 01:34:28 PM »
Quote
Edit to add - beaten to it again !!!   :)

I'm glad you chimed in since I missed some important points!

Offline cazman

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Re: SHOCKS? Front end suspension
« Reply #4 on: Monday,April 14, 2025, 01:37:04 PM »
The proper alignment is so important in these cars. If you bring to a shop for an alignment, they will probably check all the suspension components for you.
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Offline Dreamer

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Re: SHOCKS? Front end suspension
« Reply #5 on: Monday,April 14, 2025, 01:49:41 PM »
Have tire pressures been mentioned yet? You will find mid and rear engine cars react quite differently to conventional cars and tire pressures are critical to handling. If I remember correctly cold pressures for my Europa were 16 to 18 in the front and 24 to 26 rear.
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Offline Clifton

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Re: SHOCKS? Front end suspension
« Reply #6 on: Monday,April 14, 2025, 02:49:14 PM »
These cars have very light fronts and do not feel like regular cars at speed. That said, the book minimum for front toe in is better than the max. Toe much toe in will make it twitchy too. 0-1/16" toe in is what I run and one hand at 100 mph is 100% fine.

Offline Kendo

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Re: SHOCKS? Front end suspension
« Reply #7 on: Monday,April 14, 2025, 06:19:29 PM »
Dreamer beat me to mentioning tire pressures. When I first got my TCS in 1989, I didn’t believe the front pressure spec. It seemed too little. So I filled the fronts to the same as the rears. And that was not a pleasant test drive :)