Electrical Connection Antioxidant and Lubricant

[314159td]

I don't have experience with the straight D100L, tbh I pretty much always replace any corroded connector if possible. The thought being that the contact thickness has probably changed somewhat, which may lead it to be less springy or not held as tightly. For  corroded spade terminals on gauges and such, just some Scotch-Brite or sandpaper, dab of dielectric grease, and plug in the spade.

[My S1]

You are surely correct, take the time to solder new terminals onto the connections that are badly worn/corroded.  Got a job big or small do it right or not at all... Thanks.

[My S1]

These folks make some slick tools for abrading the spades-and the female bullets actually;

https://ipatools.com/product/8048-hd-fleet-technician-electrical-maintenance-set/

[Kendo]

I’m going to be 105 when I finish getting the electrics working on my Europa, aren’t I? ( I’m only 66 so far

[dakazman]

I’m going to be 105 when I finish getting the electrics working on my Europa, aren’t I? ( I’m only 66 so far

  Kendo, 😂
If the harness is in the car , you’ll be a limber 105 year old thought.🤣
Dakazman

[Clifton]

Dielectric is for spark plug boots. There's conductive electrical grease. On aluminum or lithium batteries for solar, many use this. It can be found in mini squeeze tubes for less.

https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-contact-lubricant.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254564168241?_skw=NO-OX-ID&itmmeta=01JPN40ZZKREQTCQWQZ3CZ7MB8&hash=item3b4534f231:g:MvgAAOSwI49ejcF3&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAAwFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cMGpwmtLCtYbQvhnBXNAY6x3mWhWLto9CjwoLo%2Fa7ivzRGB%2Fp4H5e%2BRc09%2FUgXkQfw1bKDGdgCTqd66gElmHf0jQr9NrNJyIOSAS6SvSWcN6chgXK%2B08RDPpmTdrDAG4lHbARiZf2KP3BLaS2I99HcKVKiXHuKCGYmibVENb3YsmSGE3zcJMAn%2FHUp%2FivrOnjlrElB4XGowuwdBHDh4dqAfCZDIBVdS5dOpwk1%2FDbc4Q%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4SAhKS1ZQ

[Bryan Boyle]

I have used the following for more years than I care to think about, both the -A and -E formulations in high-voltage and high-power RF situations.  This is for the -A formulation (which is aluminum/copper) and the -E (which is copper-copper).  Conductive, both are Zinc-based, so they act as a sacrificial layer along with the lubricant base.  TBH, I believe the lucas connectors are zinc plated...so you could probably get away with the -A and not even worry...what I used on 693R after reterminating all the ends with fresh connectors before I put it back in the shell, and except for a couple funky grounds, never had an electrical issue in the 15 years it was in my garage.  YMMV.  But this is pro level stuff, so priced accordingly, but you get what you pay for.

https://www.amazon.com/Burndy-P8A-Oxide-Inhibiting-Compounds-Container/dp/B008KLX2RY

[dakazman]

  X2 for Burndy,
    Brian has suggested it many times and I tried it and like it.
Dman

[My S1]

Bryan,  just spoke with one of Brundy's technical advisors...whew...hard to find good help these days.  Anyway, after prodding him for advice we finally determined that the basic A version is bad for plastic connector sheathing so A13 is preferable.  Or so he tells me.  Anyway I found an 8oz bottle of A13 on Zoro for $21 with $5 shipping so I'll give it a try.  Thanks for the tip.

[Bryan Boyle]

Bryan,  just spoke with one of Brundy's technical advisors...whew...hard to find good help these days.  Anyway, after prodding him for advice we finally determined that the basic A version is bad for plastic connector sheathing so A13 is preferable.  Or so he tells me.  Anyway I found an 8oz bottle of A13 on Zoro for $21 with $5 shipping so I'll give it a try.  Thanks for the tip.

Good info, thanks for passing on!