Oil Catch Cans?

[exarkun1178]

Any one use a catch can?  A buddy of mine was talking about getting one for his Mustang.  the conversions turned the the catch can i had on my Elise some years ago.  My write up on it from back  then: www.lotustalk.com/forums/f95/pes-crank-case-ventilation-oil-catch-can-mod-56684/

Thinking about my wedge head, there is often vapor that comes out the top of the breather on the rocker cover, i suspect oil as well.  does it make any sense to capture and filter out the oil?


Addition write ups on teh catch can i used:
http://www.carformance.com.au/products/provent-mann-hummel/provent-200.html

http://www.chiptuning.com.au/provent-style-oil-separators/

[jbcollier]

Not really, it doesn't sound like you are losing much, if any, oil.  Route the breather to the air filter, as per original.

[Lotusjps]

I have one, but I also run a dry sump.  I have a breather line going from the cam cover to the sump tank, then a breather line from the tank to a breather catch can.

[Grumblebuns]

That is one nice looking engine bay you have.

Fuel injected?

How big is your dry sump tank? I'm currently plumbing in my dry sump system and wondering if I went with too big of a tank; it's 2 gallon capacity tank.

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, CA

[Chuck Nukem]

WOW to both of you!

[BDA]

How big is your dry sump tank? I'm currently plumbing in my dry sump system and wondering if I went with too big of a tank; it's 2 gallon capacity tank.

I don't think you can have an oil tank that is too large - you only a practical space limitation. Assuming the 2 gallon capacity is the entire capacity of the tank, you would fill it with about five - 5 1/2 quarts (about 2/3 full).

Tell us about your BDx engine! It looks like a clean installation!

[Grumblebuns]

My initial concern was the physical size of the 2 gal tank, not too many spots where tank will fit in the Europa engine bay, at least with my engine setup. I think my fabricator did a good job in the installation. Still need to figure out where to put the catch can.

The engine is not a BD series but a 2 liter Cosworth YBB motor as used in the European Ford Sierras. This one is normally aspirated putting out about 200 HP, dyno tested by the PO. Been working on it for about 8 years, giving myself a goal of 2 more years to being road worthy. The car is in the photo gallery under Cosworth Europa. I'll update the album after the oiling system is completed.

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca

[BDA]

It looks like yours is in a good place. I kept my trunk and I put mine on the passenger side just behind the engine and in front of the trunk. I had to have the tank cut shorter so it would fit. I have a very small (~1 qt) catch tank that I attached to the front of the trunk. My head is oriented the same way as the original twin cam so the carbs are on the passenger side. Since it's a street car, it is pretty much a formality. With your tank mounted near your gas tank, maybe you could mount your catch tank where I mounted my oil tank (that seems too obvious so maybe you already have plans for that area).

Obviously, I'm less familiar with the YB series motor. It looks great! 200 hp should be a lot of fun! I knew I had seen pictures of your car before! It looks really nice! I hope you get it on the road before two years!!! Good luck!

[Lotusjps]

That is one nice looking engine bay you have.

Fuel injected?

How big is your dry sump tank? I'm currently plumbing in my dry sump system and wondering if I went with too big of a tank; it's 2 gallon capacity tank.

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, CA

Thanks!  Yep I'm running Jenvy 45mm throttle body fuel injection.  The block is an aluminum Cosworth BDG, stroked to 2.2 liter.  The dry sump take is ~6 quart.  It started out larger but I had it cut down to fit the only place I had room.  I also have an 2 quart oil cooler in the drivers side front wheel well (opposite of radiator).  Also, currently figuring out how to instal an accusump for pre-oiling.

[BDA]

Really nice setup, JPS! You may have the same tank I do since we both had to cut it down.

I've thought about an Accusump. They are really nice. I had one in my Spridget race car back in the Stone Age. I think the plumbing and placement would be a challenge. I'm sure it can be done, though. Good luck!

[Grumblebuns]

Thanks!  Yep I'm running Jenvy 45mm throttle body fuel injection.  The block is an aluminum Cosworth BDG, stroked to 2.2 liter.  The dry sump take is ~6 quart.  It started out larger but I had it cut down to fit the only place I had room.  I also have an 2 quart oil cooler in the drivers side front wheel well (opposite of radiator).  Also, currently figuring out how to instal an accusump for pre-oiling.
[/quote]

I've also been trial fitting an Accusump on the TCS. The only place in the engine bay where it may fit is above the cam cover where the long emissons cannister use to sit or if you're willing to do without the luggage box, mount it on the rear cross brace in the back. This is where I will probably mount mine along with the oil catch can.

I do have a question for you dry sump guys. I'm not too clear on the how to run the return hose from my remote oil filter back to the engine. If you look at the picture for the spin on oil filter adapter, there is an inlet and an outlet. I'm assuming that the return from my remote filter goes to the inlet. Do I cap the outlet side of the adapter?

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca 

[BDA]

I have a different setup on mine. I have the pump that is driven off the jack shaft, but I think your remote filter adapter would just be used as an inlet of filtered oil into the engine. The other port, as you say on your picture wouldn't be used.

Obviously, you want the filter just before the engine. I can't find my original oil plumbing schematic I had when I built my car but I think I cool scavenge oil rather than pressure oil figuring that it would be less pressure drop from hot oil and the pressure side would be less restrictive, but Dave Bean, who built my engine, recommended cooling the pressure oil so I don't think it makes all that much difference. I have an oil thermostat also. That complicates the plumbing but I want the oil to heat up as quicker. Since you have two scavenge pumps, if you use my plan, I guess you would just cool one of the lines and the other would go into your tank.

With the snake's nest of hoses and the carbs on top of most of it, it's difficult for me to see exactly how I plumbed it (so long ago), but the car is on stands and if it would help, I can give you a more complete map of how it all flows. Let me know.

[Grumblebuns]

I would appreciate any info that you may offer, I do not want to screw up the plumbing. With a dry sump system, I would assume that the engine driven OEM oil pump is disabled or removed when the dry sump pump is installed in it's place. I've attached a picture of dry sump pump on my spare TCS engine. The OEM oil pump was removed and the dry sump pump installed in it's place. The plumbing is pretty straight forward. Pressurized oil out to tank, return oil back into the pump and then to the oil gallery. What confused me on my YBB setup was that an oil filter adapter is normally used for a remote oil cooler, an inlet and an outlet. Without an OEM oil pump, I'll only need the inlet port and cap the outlet side.

For street use, I'll hold off on an oil cooler. Shouldn't be too hard to add it on later if I decide that I need it. 

[BDA]

Ok,  It looks like my memory failed me (not for the first time!). It turns out I have a PACE pump, not a TITAN but they plumb about the same (and similarly to yours).

 It's very common on these engines to have a dry sump pump that fits where the original oil pump/filter was. It's less common in my experience to have an external pump like your YBB has. Your TC set up is similar to mine except that behind what I think is your hose to the "pressure in" port (90 deg fitting) at about one o'clock, I have an engine inlet.

I'm sure you're right about your oil filter adapter. I think you close the outside port and use the center port as a "pressure in" port to the engine. Except for the extra scavenge output to the tank, plumbing your YBB is the same idea as your TC after that.

It sounds like you understand what's going on but if I can help let me know.

[Lotusjps]

Here's the dry sump routing recommended by Steve Jennings Racing.