Ultrasonic Cleaning

[Bryan Boyle]

Thinking of redoing the Strombergs this spring...I didn't do the throttle shaft or needle seal/o-rings and still running with the original floats.  Want to do it fully clean...so have assembled overhaul kits, waiting on the shaft seal setting tool, and new floats.

To clean, thinking of picking up an ultrasonic cleaning tank to really clean/decrud the bits and pieces of the carbs.  Just wondering what folks who have gone this route are using as the solution.  I'm smart enough to figure out that petroleum products are probably not what would be used...but other than that?  Simple green heavily diluted?  Plain distilled water?  Some other witches' brew?

I've other uses for the ultrasonic tank around my other hobbies, so it's not solely for the garage...but wanted to throw this out there.
 

[AC460234]

Hi Bryan, I use Simple green, full strength, works great. Also, Instead of filling the ultrasonic with the simple green, , I put the parts in a freezer bag, with the solution, then fill the ultrasonic with water, going two 30 minute rounds at 40c. Hope this helps.  Aidan

[BDA]

I don't have any direct experience with ultra sonic cleaners. I guess I'm too old fashioned. I do know of people who use them for cleaning their brass before reloading (for shooting) and they looked good. My mother used to use an ultra sonic cleaner for her jewelry and she was happy with the results. Unfortunately I can't comment on solutions.

[TurboFource]

I use Pine Sol ... diluted ....

[AC460234]

I found Pine sol to be very corrosive, in about 4 hours it starts removing metal

[Bryan Boyle]

I use Pine Sol ... diluted ....

2:1...5:1...10:1?  Guess it depends...

Thanx.

[TurboFource]

Probably 20:1

Cleaned this …..

[jbcollier]

Frankly, you can wash Strombergs and SUs in solvent for all that it matters.  There are no tiny passages or minuscule drillings as there are in "regular" carbs.

The Strombergs have spring-loaded needles that run against the side of the jet.  They both wear.  So fit new needles and jets or they will never run right.  The jet is tricky to replace as it has to be set to a depth of 3.00mm ± 0.02mm.  I've done lots.  Just be patient and use a press -- do not try to hammer it in our out.

I highly recommend fitting adjustable dashpots from a TR6 or TR7.  They work a real treat and allow you to dial in the mixture so much better than with all the faffing about with manual and thermostatic bypasses -- all of which I seal off.  That, and fitting a solid gasket to the decell units, will give you a set of sweet running, easy to adjust carbs.

[314159td]

Standard Simple Green can cause corrosion on aluminum in short order, their technical reps strongly cautioned against it. Simple Green Pro HD (it's purple, because it is) is intended for aluminum cleaning at the parameters listed on the bottle. No more than 10:1 or higher than 42*C iirc. That's how I've been cleaning my transmission cases and block, in a very large ultrasonic cleaner.

[Fotog]

Frankly, you can wash Strombergs and SUs in solvent for all that it matters.  There are no tiny passages or minuscule drillings as there are in "regular" carbs.

I highly recommend fitting adjustable dashpots from a TR6 or TR7.  They work a real treat and allow you to dial in the mixture so much better than with all the faffing about with manual and thermostatic bypasses -- all of which I seal off.  That, and fitting a solid gasket to the decell units, will give you a set of sweet running, easy to adjust carbs.

I would like to have adjustability on my Strombergs.  I've done some looking on Ebay and contacted sellers searching for adjustable needle dashpots with no luck so far.  I think it's so that only certain years of the TR6 used adjustable Strombergs.  Is that right?
I have found no seller so far that can tell me whether the carbs offered have adjustable needles.  Any further idea about how to get what I want in the used market?  Try for certain years of TRs?

Thx..
Vince

[TurboFource]

Fotog,
Stiock parts can be modified for an adjustable needle, I will look for the link this evening.
Adjustable jets are available too I believe

[Fotog]

Thanks.  I know that adjustable jets are offered, but I prefer that the needles be adjustable.

[Bryan Boyle]

Thanks.  I know that adjustable jets are offered, but I prefer that the needles be adjustable.

Maybe my dashpots were replaced (though I don't see any note of it in my complete...and I mean complete 2" thick three-ring binder of receipts and invoices for the car), but I don't think so.  Take one out, empty out the damper oil, and shine a light down the tube; if you see a hex-head fitting at the bottom, that's the end of the fitting that screws into the base of the needle and is used to adjust the needle up or down to change the mixture.  Every TC that I've seen (and this was confirmed a couple years ago by Ralph Stechow up at RS Motorsports when I was talking to him while redoing my carbs the first time) has, if they're US spec, adjustable needle assemblies.  That was the only way to fine tune the mixture before balancing the beasts.  You will need that adjustment tool (use the right tool) to set the needle penetration in the jet properly.

Joe Curto is a good source to talk with about Strombergs here in the US and will spend a little time talking with you if you have questions.

[TurboFource]

My carbs have adjustable needles

[Fotog]

Thanks, guys.  I understood (from where, I don't know...) that US Spec TCs did not have adjustable needles.  I rebuilt my carbs 5 years ago, but only recall releasing the needle with a set screw on the exterior of the damper (somehow).  So I'll take one apart and check for the adjustment inside the damper.  There's always the chance that it was changed prior to my ownership too.