TCS Engine removal

[HoraceM22]

Morning all, Is there a TCS specific breakdown as to the order of things in removing the engine and 'box? I'm sure I have seen one somewhere, but for the life of me I can only find the on printed in the S2 manual (not that it would be too much of a difference, I'm sure).
The reason I think I've seen one is that the thought is still in my mind that someone had written that it is actually dead on is exactly right and all you need to follow to get the job done.

[Dilkris]

Out of interest HoraceM22 why do you want to take it out?
I recall your posts on a "clonking noise" and speculative possible problems with gearbox changes (365 to NG3?).
There are no secrets to removing the engine and transaxle but your workshop facilities will dictate how you do it - ie: either lift the engine and transaxle out of the car and chassis, or lift the chassis and body off the engine/transaxle.
Either way you will be left with a chassis/body which will be awkward to move as quite simply once the transaxle is removed the whole rear suspension "does not function"
elanman39 posted under "ongoing restorations" showing an arrangement (photograph) he fabricated to work around the above rear suspension issue once the engine and trans is removed - sure it was for a S2. but the principle is the same.
Other than the above, I would say there are no secrets in the operation, just take your time and remember to disconnect the oil pressure gauge line..... many people do              

[4129R]

Gearbox
Exhaust system
Electrical connections
Water hoses x 3
Oil pressure pipe
Clutch cable
Throttle cable
Heater valve cable
Choke cable (if fitted)
Engine mountings

All from memory, I might have forgotten something.

[Grumblebuns]

Also, you need to decide whether you'll be pulling the engine from the top or bottom. People have done it both ways. I've done both of my engine pulls from the bottom. My thinking is that there is less chance of body damage pulling the engine from the bottom should there be a slippage, breakage or other oopsies than pulling from the top.

Fleshing out 4129Rs list:
1. Drain the coolant  by removing the lower hose at the radiator. Place a catch pan under the closing plate. Removing the closing plate may help in reducing the mess that will occur.
2. Remove the hoses at the thermostat housing, the inlet to the timing chest, and heater hose at the heater valve.
3. Disconnect electrical connections at the starter motor, main ground connection on the block, coolant temp connection on head, distributor to coil and reverse light connection on transaxle. There may be one two more I'm missing.
4. Disconnect shift linkage at rear of transaxle and the intermediate pivot bracket on bell housing.
5. Support engine under oil pan to remove weight off engine from engine brackets and the bracket on the engine block and engine mounts
6. Support transaxle and remove bolts at rear of transaxle to chassis hoop.
7.AT this point the engine/transaxle should be supported by the floor jacks and ready to lift out or pull out. I left my transaxle connected to the engine.
This all from memory and I'm probably missing something. One oddity I came across was the fitting for the oil pressure pipe. I could not find a wrench that would fit the connection. Neither Imperial nor metric would make a tight fit. I had to finally cut the pipe. Could it possibly be Whitworth?

[Grumblebuns]

Also, you need to decide whether you'll be pulling the engine from the top or bottom. People have done it both ways. I've done both of my engine pulls from the bottom. My thinking is that there is less chance of body damage pulling the engine from the bottom should there be a slippage, breakage or other oopsies than pulling from the top.

Fleshing out 4129Rs list:
1. Drain the coolant  by removing the lower hose at the radiator. Place a catch pan under the closing plate. Removing the closing plate may help in reducing the mess that will occur.
2. Remove the hoses at the thermostat housing, the inlet to the timing chest, and heater hose at the heater valve.
3. Disconnect electrical connections at the starter motor, main ground connection on the block, coolant temp connection on head, distributor to coil and reverse light connection on transaxle. There may be one two more I'm missing.
4. Disconnect shift linkage at rear of transaxle and the intermediate pivot bracket on bell housing.
5. Support engine under oil pan to remove weight off engine from engine brackets and the bracket on the engine block and engine mounts
6. Support transaxle and remove bolts at rear of transaxle to chassis hoop.
7.At this point the engine/transaxle should be supported by the floor jacks and ready to lift out or pull out. I left my transaxle connected to the engine.
8. If you're pulling the engine from the bottom, removing the carbs gives you more wiggle room when lifting the body up

This all from memory and I'm probably missing something. One oddity I came across was the fitting for the oil pressure pipe. I could not find a wrench that would fit the connection. Neither Imperial nor metric would make a tight fit. I had to finally cut the pipe. Could it possibly be Whitworth?

[EuropaTC]

Comparing what's written above with my notes, I think the guys above have it covered. The only thing I could add is the reverse switch wiring on the gearbox, but I've also added my checklist as a PDF export from the spreadsheet I knocked up. No guarrantees on the accuracy, I could well have ticked all the boxes and then thought "oh, it's not moving, I'd better remove xxx now", it's a long time ago !

Personally I'd do the "lift body, drag out from underneath on a trolley" method. I haven't tried lifting the engine/transmission as a single unit from above but I'd guess that with the TC you'd also have to remove the bracing struts from the chassis to rear suspension crossmember and probably the crossmember itself. At that point you've virtually got all the rear suspension in bits so more dismantling/reassembly. For a full restoration that's fine, not so much for maintenance on a car that's otherwise ok.

Brian

[HoraceM22]

Thanks for all these bits of advice guys, I'll make notes and try and keep to the script.
I've been lent a hoist  and engine stand, I've got a large garage with a pit and have done a few rebuilds on my crossflow and a couple of twincams, albeit 30 years ago for those, so I'm up for the challenge.

Dilkris, I need to do a complete engine rebuild as there is a lot of oily smoke being blown into the airbox, and when taking my charity passengers out they seem to like to have the windows open and the smell of oily smoke is not the best, although non visible fromtheoutside. Also a compression test showed 125, 135, 155 and 165psi. The thing is that if you didn't open the windows  you wouldn't know anything was suspect, but when you know, you've got to get it sorted... along with an electric fuel pump and an electronic distributor.

Although an absolute fortune hase been spent on this car (£45k by the last but one owner around 2016! ) there's nothing in the huge history file showing any spend on the engine, apart from 4 exhaust valves in 1999 so, having just sold my supercharged x/flow Westfield, I am getting into the pit to get this engine out and apart. I'm hoping it might be standard spec, but at 92k miles I very much doubt it. It won't be in a month or two......

[Dilkris]

Dilkris, ... along with an electric fuel pump and an electronic distributor.

Understood - Don't forget the inertia cut off switch for the electric fuel pump.