1970 s2 0453R - A new Beginning

[GavinT]

G'day, Dave,

I notice you seem to have removed some metal from the chassis access hole (red circle).
You might want to think about filling that in or it'll inevitably be the source of cracking, I reckon.
That hole was already too large and crack prone from the factory, IMHO.

[BDA]

  I would use rivets rather than bolts. Welding would be best but obviously impractical.

[dakazman]

G'day, Dave,

I notice you seem to have removed some metal from the chassis access hole (red circle).
You might want to think about filling that in or it'll inevitably be the source of cracking, I reckon.
That hole was already too large and crack prone from the factory, IMHO.

 
   Thanks Gavin, I did not know that section was also prone to cracks. For the time being I'll blend in a radius. I had other cracks in the frame and repaired them, so I'm keeping an eye out on them also.  After I finish the other three engines I plan on welding up a partial frame. I haven't ruled out a spyder frame either.   
   If and when, I will put an inspection plate insert with a doubler ring underneath for bolts. In hindsight it would have been easier to find a suitable switch for the electric heater.
 Dakazman

 
 
 

[Clifton]

G'day, Dave,

I notice you seem to have removed some metal from the chassis access hole (red circle).
You might want to think about filling that in or it'll inevitably be the source of cracking, I reckon.
That hole was already too large and crack prone from the factory, IMHO.

I can confirm this to be true. I cut a large hole to mount an MR2 cable shifter. I made and used a bolt on steel plate to cover and strengthen the hole similar to an Esprit and it still rippled a 1/2" in one of the  squared corners.

[dakazman]

  Clifton,
    What type of driving and how many miles logged on? I agree that the spyder frame married to this body is the best way forward.
    I'm still in baby steps with my break-in. and I doubt I'll ever do any spirited driving, another dream, Tail of the Dragon. If I do, the wife wants it trailered up. I don't think I'll ever get above 50 mph. Hitting 70 mph would be a goal, on a smooth straight road, in Florida, which is what we mostly have.
  I made a radius cut in that area which should last.
 
 Dakazman
 
   
 

[Clifton]

  Clifton,
    What type of driving and how many miles logged on? I agree that the spyder frame married to this body is the best way forward.
    I'm still in baby steps with my break-in. and I doubt I'll ever do any spirited driving, another dream, Tail of the Dragon. If I do, the wife wants it trailered up. I don't think I'll ever get above 50 mph. Hitting 70 mph would be a goal, on a smooth straight road, in Florida, which is what we mostly have.
  I made a radius cut in that area which should last.
 
 Dakazman   

10,800 miles. Street driving isn't as abusive as track events with wide, soft tires is. I do that 8 times a year. I'm not saying street driving won't be an issue though. There's still chassis load and twist. It's good you radius ed it.

85 mph is our fast lane freeway norm when it's not too crowded. I think you'll be going 70 more than you think.

I don't have a pic with it open showing the bend but this is the cover.

[BDA]

Getting a closer look, I'd say it's not potentially as bad as I thought initially because there are no sharp corners. A more generous radius at the "corner" would obvious be a LOT better. That's not to say that I don't think you have anything to worry about. It's obviously weaker than it was before you cut it. A properly riveted (not pop riveted) patch should fix it.

Is Spyder discontinuing Europa frames or just Europa frame restorations?

[dakazman]

  BDA , All I researched were these .
  It was long ago but I remember reading threads of others buying a frame not to long age .
 I see they supply a Z-Tex conversion now.
Dakazman
 

[GavinT]

I honestly don't think this is something that can be blended in successfully. Blending implies the softening of a transition which isn't really the total issue here.

Gotta remember the backbone is subject to torsional loads in everyday life. It's only made of  1/16" mild steel.
Mine had a crack across one side of that access hole as well as under the front T transitioning up the inside corners of the T. Also had a couple on both sides of the vertical doublers on the rear legs near the tranny hoop. These cars are 50 years old, so . . . hey.

For me, I don't think I'd let it go but the fix probably isn't all that daunting.
I'd cut the fibreglass away for perhaps 2" around the affected area and weld in some sheet metal.
My thinking here is that one could easily lose a lot of fibreglass in this area with little impact on the body. Then, bolt the console on and Bob's your Aunty's live-in lover.

I'm being tough because the last thing you need is to later discover a crack has migrated down the sides of the backbone where you really can't fix it without removing the body.

I reckon the TC/TCS chassis looks much better in this regard with their straight sided hole (not elliptical) as well as a sort of dimpled inner edge - probably less prone to cracking.

[TurboFource]

Didn’t realize Twin Cam hole was different …

[dakazman]

  Gavin, you led the horse to water and I will repair it asap
 I’m thinking a 1” wide 1/16 doubler ring,  spot welded around perimeter. A minimal amount of the fiberglass will be removed. 

Dakazman

[GavinT]

Didn’t realize Twin Cam hole was different …

Turbo,
Are you able to measure the width of the TCS access hole?
That is, if you put a caliper across it, what's the number? It doesn't need to be all that precise and I'll fudge the radius of the lip later.

[Kendo]

3-1/4 x 5-5/8 with a 7/16 downturned lip -1973 TCS

[kram350kram]

To install the Porsche shifter box in my TCS V-8 project, I had to open the tunnel at the stock shifter location by cutting into the vertical sides of the box section. This significantly weakened the tunnel and I mean significantly! The defection and bending between the front T and rear Y was on the order of some 2”. Was like a wet noodle. I used an internal tunnel X brace and sheet metal cap that mirrored the removed 90 degree edges of the tunnel with a few through bolts, gussets and  strapping. I was surprised of the impact this cut out had on the rigidity of the tunnel. Think there are some pictures in my V-8 Project if interested.

[dakazman]

  I fabricated a few things today after a successful test on a muffler wrap. Not so mush a wrap but just a thermal barrier.  Then making it look   I fabricated a few things today after a successful test on a muffler wrap. Not so mush a wrap but just a thermal barrier.  Then making it look presentable.
 Then onward to the console repair, I found a sheet of 1\16 steel and I’ll cut to cover the entire hole   . Attaching with some hi-loc pin rivets. Instead of spot welding then in. Another thought is to use rivnuts on the lower sheet . We’ll see .
  My test of vacuum pressure was a solid 13 psi at idle from the intake manifold . Possible late timing…,  maybe. Another dilemma, not starting without starting fluid.🤔 but will start afterwards.
Playing with choke it will kick but drop right off.
  Lastly my backup camera and usb socket came in so I’ll be busy.