New Project

[DAllen]

Brought this TCS home a few weeks ago.  I am in need of a project.  Haven't decided how far to take it.

[BDA]

  DAllen!!

Please keep us updated on your progress!

[TurboFource]

 

Post lots of pics!

[4129R]

Brought this TCS home a few weeks ago.  I am need of a project.  Haven't decided how far to take it.

Have a very close look at the chassis. They rust at the front where the steel closer plate attaches to the chassis with 3 x 7/16" headed bolts, and at the Y just in front of the engine. If they need welding it is a chassis off job which is not as dramatic as it sounds, but if you do the welding with the chassis on, the whole lot and your garage could go up in flames.

If the chassis is good, probably just all the rubber hoses, bushes, (bushings), engine mountings, and gearbox mountings need looking at for splits etc.

If the wiring loom needs replacing, that is a big job, but wiring faults are very common, mainly due to corroded earths.   

If in doubt, ask, there are many here who have trodden the path before (in my case too many times).

[DAllen]

Thanks, 4129R!

I have, and will have, many questions. Tons of questions.  So far, I have been able to find a reasonable solution to what little I have accomplished.  Next task is removing the rear uprights.  I see no other solution than applying a bit of heat to the casting.  Close to impossible to get a decent bite on the bolts securing the brake backplate. 

My take on this project is one of frustration management.  A test.   

[jbcollier]

Slow down a bit there.  The cast aluminium upright can be easily broken.  The upright only comes out after the axle has been removed.  The hubs are fitted with locktite so a little heat will be required.  If the axle resists your efforts, remove the whole arm and use a press to get it out.

[DAllen]

Thanks, jbcollier!

My thinking is it will be best to "remove the whole arm and use a press to get it out."  Only because my thinking tells me if a little bit of heat is good, more heat is better.  I don't want to go down that road again and end up with scrap metal.

[GavinT]

The procedure here is to first remove the stub axle nut.
This will allow you to determine if the wheel flange hub has been installed using Loctite. It's possible the hub doesn't have Loctite even though Lotus specified it at a later date.

If Loctite is present on the wheel flange hub, heat the hub, not the ally upright.

Then again, given you'll presumably look to deal with replacing bearings and probably UJ's as well, all this is more easily accomplished by removing the whole trailing arm & half-shaft as an assembly to the healing bench, I reckon.

There's only two bolts and a 5mm pin between where you are now and the healing bench.
My back feels better already just from having typed this. 

[DAllen]

A quick trip to Harbor Freight to pick up a puller.  No heat was required.  Don't know if that is a good thing or a bad thing: the hub slid off with surprisingly little effort.  No obvious signs of wear on the splines.  Slowly getting into this project.   

[BDA]

Here’s a discussion on which Loctite to use (https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1103.msg9190#msg9190). 635. r.d. enterprises sells small bottles of it for this purpose. Put it only on the splines and none on the nut. Dave Bean used to sell a conical spacer that nestles in the counter sink in the hub to help center it on the stub axle. It might be worth a call to them to see if they still sell them. The stock D-lock washer that you bend up on one of the flats of the nut is not totally trustworthy. It’s rare but I have heard of them allowing the nut to loosen. An engine builder I know came up with a really reliable alternative. After the stub axle is assembled and the nut has been torqued, he drilled and tapped a hole axially (not radially, in the direction of the stub axle) and then screwed a set screw in the hole. The nut would have to shear the set screw in half to turn.

If you’re the second owner, the spacer’s between the bearings will not be hardened. This is a main reason for trouble at your stub axle. All the usual suspects will sell proper hardened spacers.

[Dilkris]

I am in need of a project.  Haven't decided how far to take it.

Believe me - it will end up totally disassembled - and with the body off..... 
Welcome to the world of having your patience tested.   

[DAllen]

It appears the transmission u-joints must be split to remove the rear suspension?  Ya, a test of frustration management.   

[4129R]

You drift the roll pin out and the drive shafts came away from the diff complete.

If you split the UJs, they are difficult to press back together. The needle rollers keep dropping down.

[DAllen]

How do I 'persuade' the U-joint to release its grip on the output shaft and slide off?  A crowbar?

[4129R]

If the roll pin is fully out, the driveshaft yoke is held on to the diff output shafts by sliding splines.

Try careful heat, and be careful not to damage the castleated aluminium large nut which holds the diff bearing in place in the gearbox housing.