What wideband O2 A/F gauge would you recommend?

[TurboFource]

Wanted to see what forum members are using and are they happy with it?

[jbcollier]

I use an LM1 from Innovate Motorsports.  Works like a charm.  Would get the newer version if buying agin, of course.  I have tuned cars, motorcycles and even hopped up 2 strokes with it.  A real game changer for tuning engines easily and properly.

[Clifton]

I had an original LM-1 hand held that had the box. They were the first that had an affordable wideband. It had to calibrate often. I'm sure the newer ones are better. I use an AEM classic wideband now. They have come out with the X band that is thinner too.

[BDA]

Has anyone seen this one: https://www.plxdevices.com/PLX-Wideband-O2-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Sensor-Modules-Gauges-s/125.htm. It looks interesting and reasonably priced.

[Kendo]

Whichever system you buy, is the bung that gets welded into the exhaust pipe the same size and thread for all of them? Is there a metric/imperial difference to watch out for?

[TurboFource]

I believe all O2 sensors have the same thread M18 x 1.5

[Pfreen]

I use the AEM 30-4110.  It works great.  I think all of them use either the Bosch sensor or NGK.  I don't think the electronics or display is the problem.  The sensor is the challenge.  Mine uses the Bosch sensor.   No complaints.

[314159td]

I've been running this Glowshift unit (‎GS-T702W) for some time now. Iirc came with a name-brand Bosch sensor and standard connector. Be wary, some of the complete kits use a proprietary or otherwise annoying to source connector, so if you need to replace the sensor it's extra annoying to get things connected.

I have it about 10" from the closest exhaust port on my Corvair, against their recommendations, as there's nowhere else for it to go. Has been fine for 3K+ miles. Recalibrated it for the first time recently and it seems like nothing changed.

[jbcollier]

I wouldn’t leave them hooked up permanently.  We are not running full race engines where the jetting goes off of the sun goes behind a cloud.  Just use them to jet your carb and then take them out.  You’ll be tuning for “proper” operation (on the rich side) and this means more deposits than O2 sensors normally like, which will reduce their life.

I disagree about where to place the priority when choosing a gauge.  The suggestion of PLX above for example.  Lots of complaints about lack of support and a poorly designed app.  You want a company that supports you and their product, not a 10 minute tech wonder.  It is difficult to get meaningful info off the web and review sites are over represented by unhappy/ignorant users.  Feedback from people with personal experience, and have used their equipment a lot, is much more useful.

Lastly, a blue tooth link would be very handy but how well does it work with unshielded electrical systems?  Just be a little cautious.

[TurboFource]

Thanx to all for their input!

[Clifton]

I use the AEM 30-4110.  It works great.  I think all of them use either the Bosch sensor or NGK.  I don't think the electronics or display is the problem.  The sensor is the challenge.  Mine uses the Bosch sensor.   No complaints.

Same unit I'm running. Some of the other brands have a control box. I can only speak of the AEM, they do not. The gauge is the controller too. Just two plugs on the back. I leave mine in all the time as I am EFI, boosted, tune able and need to know. 14 years on a bunch of engines with no problems.

[BDA]

... The suggestion of PLX above for example.  Lots of complaints about lack of support and a poorly designed app.  You want a company that supports you and their product, not a 10 minute tech wonder.  It is difficult to get meaningful info off the web and review sites are over represented by unhappy/ignorant users.  Feedback from people with personal experience, and have used their equipment a lot, is much more useful.

Lastly, a blue tooth link would be very handy but how well does it work with unshielded electrical systems?  Just be a little cautious.

Thanks for that, JB! I was considering the PLX as a possible purchase and seeing that it is negatively viewed potentially saved me from wasting money and being really frustrated!

[Grumblebuns]

For those of you who have it, how do you collect data for later analysis. Trying to observe the AFR meter on the fly and trying to remember the data is near impossible. How do you hook up a laptop for this. Most of the YouTube videos are for newer cars using OBD ports.   

[BDA]

You could check on https://vintagetechnologygarage.groups.io/g/sidedraft. Keith does a lot of work with them.

[Kendo]

The LM-2 logs directly to an SD card, I assume for later analysis. https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/lm-2-basic-kit.html