Handbrake compensator rub on coolant pipes?

[Elanman39]

Hi, I've finally started the chassis rebuild on the S2 that came to me in bits last year.  When assembling the handbrake mechanism I noticed that the U shaped compensator rubs on the coolant pipes when puled upwards by the single cable that connectes to the translator lever.  Is this normal or have I got something horribly wrong?  I have fitted aluminium coolant pipes as the originals were rusted through, so if the rub is inevitable I will have to try to protect them with some ABS tubing or similar.  Any previously proven solutions out there?
Many Thanks,  Nick

[dakazman]

  Is he U shape clamp adjuster below coolant pipes?  If so you can take up some slack cable at the adjuster.  I had my cable twisted around the pipes and had to go in and clear the runs, so to speak.
 I get a little rubbing( slightly touching when handbrake pulled.
Dakazman
   BTW >>>>>

[4129R]

Hi Nick,

It is quite normal for the U to rub against the tubes when the cable is taught. 

Make sure the two lock nuts which adjust the tension of the wire to the reaction lever are easy to rotate where they pass through the horseshoe, as they are very hard to get to, to adjust the hand brake cable once everything is back together.

I adjust the cable using spacers on the trailing arms where the cable outer attaches the the C on the trailing arm.

Let know know if you want me to pop over soon.

Cheers,

Alex.

[Elanman39]

Thanks guys, I'll rig up some kind of shield to prevent the U from rubbing through the aluminium pipes over time and maybe reduce rattles as well.  I'm trying to pre-guess the adjustment of the central cable nuts given the awkward access once it's all back together.  Am I right in assuming that the translator lever between the central cable and the handbrake umbrella handle is roughly parallel to the front chassis crossmember when the handbrake is applied?
Alex, (and any other Lotus fans) you're always welcome to pop round whenever it suits you, the coffee machine is always on! I like the idea of the spacers at the end of the trailing cables by the way.
Pictures attached to show current state of the chassis "dry build", trying to find at least some of the pratfalls before the final assembly!!  One good one is a very tight clearance between the coolant return tube and the gearlever translator lever mounting, when I pull it apart again I can easily open this up and tidy the paint before final assembly. I love the way the engine gearbox assembly balances perfectly on a strap on just two bolts by the way!
Best,  Nick

[TurboFource]

Chassis is looking good!

[4129R]

Alex, (and any other Lotus fans) you're always welcome to pop round whenever it suits you, the coffee machine is always on! I like the idea of the spacers at the end of the trailing cables by the way.

My second ally tank arrives tomorrow. I should be mobile later tomorrow and I will pop over in 3089R and show you the hand brake all assembled.

[Elanman39]

it will be good to catch up Alex.  I'm not planning on being anywhere other than the workshop tomorrow so no need to call before heading over.  See you then,  Nick

[GavinT]

I'm trying to pre-guess the adjustment of the central cable nuts given the awkward access once it's all back together.

Looking good there, Nick
For what it's worth, I replaced the two central cable adjustment nuts with a single Nyloc nut - works fine and eliminates the need for the second spanner.

[TurboFource]

I added nylon sheet around mine today to prevent wear.

Much easier to say than do!

[Elanman39]

I like the idea of the nyloc Gavin, I'll do the same on the final assembly, thanks for the tip.  I've found some 32mm ID ABS drain pipe tucked away in my useful stuff corner, I reckon I can split it and slip it over the pipes without too much drama and then use a tie-rap to secure it.  I can see how the sheet material would be a trial!!

[Dilkris]

I noticed this possible interference and source of an annoying "chatter" so I covered both supply and return coolant water pipes with  split plastic water pipe to act as a sleeve. (See photo) 
I did do this during the rebuild with the body still off - whether it can be done with body on - I'm not too sure.
Does it work? Not too sure - ask me in about 10 years at the rate I am going when the car is finished and on the road.