Parking permanently in an enclosed trailer

[LotusEuropa]

Hi everyone,

I am currently considering selling my small trailer and buying an enclosed trailer instead. It will be used to transport my classic cars and possibly as a "parking spot" for one of them.

The reason for this is that I would like to park my assets (cars and trailer) together and on private property. An additional garage is not available, but a parking space is.

I'm worried that that a change in the weather conditions will create a climate that won't do the car any favour. What is your opinion on this? Can the issue be resolved with countermeasures or should I abandon the idea?

Kind regards.

[4129R]

If the car is stored in an enclosed space, I would check it regularly for condensation.

Left outside, Europas seem to leak, some quite badly through the doors, and one I have left for about a year had 5 litres of water in the petrol tanks. Plus on some TCs, water gets into #1&2 spark plug recesses and sits there rusting the spark plugs.

Dry storage is the way to go, but condensation, particularly in sub zero winters, would be my concern.

Disconnect the battery, and when you take it out of storage, drain the petrol to check for any contamination. It is very easy to do with brass drain plugs at the bottom of each tank, a 5/8" ring spanner soon releases them.

[LotusEuropa]

Dry storage is the way to go, but condensation, particularly in sub zero winters, would be my concern.

Thank you for your response. I have the same concern, that's why I am asking here.

"The ideal humidity for rust-free storage of automobiles is between 50 and 55 % RH (relative humidity)"
I'm not sure what the situation in an enclosed trailer is throughout the year.

[Kendo]

When I first got my TCS, I didn’t have a garage. I built a PVC geodesic structure around it with a big car cover over it. That only partly. Kept the moisture out. The paint eventually started erupting, with small leopard spots appearing all over it.

That of course let moisture up from the ground. Your trailer would mitigate that. For further protection, I’d suggest a drive-under carport, to keep rain off of the trailer. Also, can you pave the parking spot, to block some ground moisture? Finally, if you can get electricity to the spot, maybe run dehumidifiers during the worst weather?

[SwiftDB4]

I stored a car in an enclosed trailer over a winter. Not a good idea as it rusted most metal surfaces. I live in Pacific NW U.S. so very humid.

[4129R]

The paint eventually started erupting, with small leopard spots appearing all over it.

How big were those spots?

I have loads of about 3-4mm diameter spots and do not know how to get rid of them.

(Penicillin in the petrol does not seem to work !)

[EuropaTC]

Thank you for your response. I have the same concern, that's why I am asking here.

"The ideal humidity for rust-free storage of automobiles is between 50 and 55 % RH (relative humidity)"
I'm not sure what the situation in an enclosed trailer is throughout the year.

We use a couple of steel shipping containers at our archery club for storing the target bosses when not in use. The steel parts (pins, hooks, etc)  haven't rusted badly but they do show rust so I wouldn't rule it out on a car. The containers themselves aren't that bad although having said that we found a hole in the roof section last year which had rusted through.

The other aspect is that even in our Lincolnshire climate the internal temperature varies quite a lot. It's basically a big steel box and in direct sunlight with the doors closed it gets quite toasty. They are never air tight so add in some atmospheric moisture if it's been closed for a long time and I can see paint problems - those little blisters - on the horizon.

I can however see the attraction for what you're facing. All I'd say is to try and get some ventilation and don't leave it shut up over for weeks over winter ?

Brian

[Kendo]

Those leopard spots were in the 1-3 cm range. I assume it was from moisture working its way up from behind the paint.

[LotusEuropa]

Thanks to all of you so far, the concerns do not seem to be unjustified. Would have been too easy.
Worst case would be to damage the car just because of the climate conditions during parking.

[4129R]

Those leopard spots were in the 1-3 cm range. I assume it was from moisture working its way up from behind the paint.

Have you just left them, or have you managed to find a way of getting rid of them?

My car has lots.

[EuropaTC]

Have you just left them, or have you managed to find a way of getting rid of them?

My car has lots.

Sadly there's no way that I've heard of to remove them without going back to bare fibreglass. If you find something that works, post it as a stickie here !

A common problem with boats apparently and I even think I've seen references to paint problems with the Emira.  My Europa developed some blisters between 2005-11 when I didn't use it and it was stood in an outbuilding for months on end which resulted in a respray.   My S1 Elise developed a few very small blisters last year around the lower quarters. I've had it from new in '99 and it spent the first 5yrs outside and has been garaged ever since.  It's never had any paintwork so these are genuine Lotus blisters.

It's moisture coming through the fibreglass from the unsealed back of the panel. It's never happened on the Elan in over 45+yrs but the layup there is considerably thicker than either the Europa or Elise. You can get treatments to prevent it coming back and at some point, if the Elise gets unsightly, then I'll respray it and after stripping the paint I'll try to bake the panels before sealing the back.

[4129R]

"Q. What Causes Microblisters on GRP Bodywork and How it Can Be Prevented in Future. Is it a Peculiarity of Fibreglass in Damp Conditions?

A. We spoke to paint specialists at Western Spray of Crediton, Devon. They advised that microblistering is always a result of moisture that was already present in the primer coat or undercoat, regardless of the material the car’s made of or the paint system used. It can remain sequestered within the primer for years without harm – but as soon as the right conditions come together, it’s forced out and causes blisters in the top coat. If you pop a fresh blister, you’ll find it’s damp inside.

Sadly, rectification will involve stripping the top coat off. In theory, if the old primer is exposed in this way and then dried off, it can be painted over safely."

I think that popping about 300-400 paint spots and then repainting them and flatting them down and polishing them will make the car look a lot worse than it is.