It's not easy being green - 1971 TC

[Cheguava]

I have had to drill a hole in each fibreglass wing, and literally punch the 1/2" rod out of the housing in the body.

Dammit - I managed to punch the rod at the top a couple of mm up before it jammed. Thanks though - very helpful to know that others with more experience also find this not straightforward.

I use a bent C shaped 1/2" ring spanner, like for the bolts holding the rack to the chassis. You have to rotate the steering wheel to get the right position to access top and bottom. 

Fair enough, thanks. Hack sawing is going slowly but nearly there - just come into the house for a coffee break

Much easier to access everything when the body is off.

Couldn't  be any harder. Think the passenger door might be slightly better - still needs cutting off but isn't frozen at as many points.

[Cheguava]

Have you removed the more or less teardrop shaped closing panel at the rear of the front wheel well? It’s held on with 5-7 large rivets and probably undercoating. With that removed, you can reach in and pick up the lower piece of hinge pin. And you can touch the top of the upper section of pin. Maybe some penetrating oil would obviate the need to drill through the fiberglass wing. (Makes me reconsider why there was a patch in the fiberglass there on my car’s body.)

That's a good shout, and embarrassingly, that panel is missing on my car, looks a fairly recent removal for whatever reason. I'd not thought to look in that way though, d'oh!  Like you say, a good angle to squirt penetrating oil.  Thanks!

[BDA]

If you get either the 'T' replaced by Spyder or you get a new Spyder frame, the access to the steering u-joint situation will be fixed for you. I thought I had seen that Banks made a similar mod to the 'T' but you might have to call to see if that's true.

[Dilkris]

As an extension to BDA's comment regarding access to the steering U Joint - please see following photo's. As you will already know, I had the front T section of my original chassis replaced by Spyder - my body is yet to go on the "go kart" - radiator is shown temporarily mounted as I have been running the engine. 

[Cheguava]

Thanks for the tip BDA, and thanks for the pics Chris - WOW, the front end of your chassis looks immaculate! Is that all new parts or have you had some of them refinished? Good to know that reassembly will be easier than the reverse of taking it apart!

Managed to finish cutting off the nut of the pinch bolt, and as I rotated it to get at the head of the bolt, the bolt fell out. Hammered a big screwdriver into the gap and hey presto, got the steering column off. 

Just got to get the master cylinder off now - lower bolt was fine but getting a spanner on the top one is tricky, so will go at that tomorrow. Getting close to body lift off.

[Dilkris]

Thanks for the tip BDA, and thanks for the pics Chris - WOW, the front end of your chassis looks immaculate! Is that all new parts or have you had some of them refinished? Good to know that reassembly will be easier than the reverse of taking it apart!

I didn't really have a lot to work with,   (see photo's). The original lower wishbones were bent following being used as jacking points at some point during their life. Severe corrosion elsewhere.
Upper and lower wish bones are Spyder, calipers, discs, coil overs, master cylinder and steering rack mounts are new - everything else I refinished, so uprights, stub axles, steering rack, anti roll bar, drop links are original.     

[Cheguava]

Counting down to lift off now. Removed the brake master cylinder, which continuing a theme fell to bits as I undid the mount - the alloy just crumbling. Add to the list of replacements needed...  Got the airbox and carbs off without too much drama though, and undid the connections beneath. Need to saw off the passenger door, and pull the clutch cable out of the body, then I think it's time to start raising the body and see what connection I've inevitably missed! 

Also cheered myself up by getting a tyre put on the spare wheel - it's not the greatest condition but it was the worst wheel by some distance, so am hopeful the rest will polish up a bit better. Looked at getting them diamond cut but quotes were £150 a wheel which while probably market rate was more than buying a new set. And it's nice to look at something and know you did it.

[berni29]

Hi

That wheel looks great, well done. My seat cover kit came from Banks today. I need to start to look into foams etc.

All the best

Berni

[Cheguava]

Hi

That wheel looks great, well done. My seat cover kit came from Banks today. I need to start to look into foams etc.

All the best

Berni

Thanks Berni - I've not ordered my seat covers yet, need to get round to it now probably. Which covers did you go with in the end?

[Dilkris]

..... then I think it's time to start raising the body and see what connection I've inevitably missed! 
Looked at getting them diamond cut but quotes were £150 a wheel which while probably market rate was more than buying a new set.

Don't forget the handbrake multiplying lever - item 9 on the attached photo. (Not sure if you have already removed it) If not - "yes" the bolt will be seized....
My sentiments also regarding wheels - I reworked mine following having them shot blasted, (took me a whole day per wheel to polish and paint) - they are not perfect but I believe in keeping with the age of the car - I posted a thread on them some time back.
Well done - you are getting there 

[Dilkris]

Here's the link for when I did my wheels
https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=4611.msg50154#msg50154

[Cheguava]

..... then I think it's time to start raising the body and see what connection I've inevitably missed! 
Looked at getting them diamond cut but quotes were £150 a wheel which while probably market rate was more than buying a new set.

Don't forget the handbrake multiplying lever - item 9 on the attached photo. (Not sure if you have already removed it) If not - "yes" the bolt will be seized....
My sentiments also regarding wheels - I reworked mine following having them shot blasted, (took me a whole day per wheel to polish and paint) - they are not perfect but I believe in keeping with the age of the car - I posted a thread on them some time back.
Well done - you are getting there 

Thanks Chris, the handbrake lever was a low point - a PO or their mechanic had welded the bolt to the lever and then dropped / driven the lever in. I had to saw through the bolt to remove it, luckily got over half way with an angle grinder but then had to hacksaw the rest. Will be jacking the body up very slowly when it comes to it! 

[Kendo]

Speedometer cable? Oil pressure tube?

[Cheguava]

Here's the link for when I did my wheels
https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=4611.msg50154#msg50154

You did a nice job there Chris. My prep is similar to yours, having done a few sets over the years I now try and save the hand sanding and polishing for where it's actually needed, and crack out the power tools where it's not.  A few years back I lost easy access to my computer and phone as I'd sanded my finger prints off 

[Cheguava]

Speedometer cable? Oil pressure tube?

Speedo cable is done - another thing that snapped as i touched it.    Oil pressure tube is not yet undone at the back, thanks for the reminder!