It's not easy being green - 1971 TC

[EuropaTC]

Rebuild kits do come up for those servos but personally I'd just clean that one and put it on the shelf for now.  Once you've got the car mobile (probably next month eh ?) try the brakes without assistance and see how you go.

My original servo packed up and I replaced it with a Lockheed one (MG ?) but even that would stick if left standing for too long over winter. In the end I pulled it out, changed the pads to Greenstuff and never went back. I'm not running the same system now, everything's changed with a custom design but the common factor is no servo assistance.

The closing plate is easy to replicate in stainless, put a return lip at either end and it'll be better than new. (and shiny as well    )

Brian

[4129R]

I used 1/4" ally plate for my front closer plates.

But....... the closer plate acts as an earth for all the front electrics which earth through a 1/4" UNF bolt attached to the closer plate by the bottom radiator hose. The closer plate is bolted to the bottom of the T of the chassis with 3 more 1/4" UNF bolts.

I run a new dedicated thick black earth wire from the bolt where the earths are joined together, through the drivers footwell to the L plate which attaches to the chassis and holds the bottom of the dash in place.

That way there is a dry connection from the front earth to the chassis, which does not rust and cause bad earths.

[EuropaTC]

I used 1/4" ally plate for my front closer plates.

 and

new dedicated thick black earth wire from the bolt where the earths are joined together, through the drivers footwell to the L plate which attaches to the chassis and holds the bottom of the dash in place.

1/4" thick ? more copper wire ?   All that extra weight ??       you'll be drummed out of the Lotus club if you carry on like that !   

[4129R]

1/4" thick ? more copper wire ?   All that extra weight ??       you'll be drummed out of the Lotus club if you carry on like that !   

To compensate for all that extra weight, ally radiator, LED headlights, lightweight driving shoes, no wrist watch, and an empty ash tray.

[Cheguava]

Rebuild kits do come up for those servos but personally I'd just clean that one and put it on the shelf for now.  Once you've got the car mobile (probably next month eh ?) try the brakes without assistance and see how you go.

Thanks - I'll mull it over. Car is going to take a bit more than a month  but I'm trying to project manage it a little so that when the shell is done and ready to reunite with renewed chassis and suspension, I'm not waiting to sort stuff I could have got done in the meantime.

Best wishes, Jeff

[Cheguava]

I used 1/4" ally plate for my front closer plates.

But....... the closer plate acts as an earth for all the front electrics which earth through a 1/4" UNF bolt attached to the closer plate by the bottom radiator hose. The closer plate is bolted to the bottom of the T of the chassis with 3 more 1/4" UNF bolts.

I run a new dedicated thick black earth wire from the bolt where the earths are joined together, through the drivers footwell to the L plate which attaches to the chassis and holds the bottom of the dash in place.

That way there is a dry connection from the front earth to the chassis, which does not rust and cause bad earths.

Sounds like a top tip - the bolt with the earth connection was pretty cruddy and fell apart.

[Dilkris]

I may have missed some threads here but when it comes to chassis repairs or replacement, please remember we have Spyder Cars here in the UK - they blasted, cut off and rebuilt the whole front section, replaced the integral heater pipes and painted my chassis at a cost which I personally found attractive, (in comparison to alternatives), and I opted to go this route. The end result was very impressive. (I don't believe our friends across the water have this option)
I have posted pictures historically of this on the forum but if you cannot locate them I am happy to post again for you - let me know.
Note: I am in Shrewsbury so if you are ever down this part of the world pm me and you are welcome to come and see for yourself.       

[Cheguava]

I may have missed some threads here but when it comes to chassis repairs or replacement, please remember we have Spyder Cars here in the UK - they blasted, cut off and rebuilt the whole front section, replaced the integral heater pipes and painted my chassis at a cost which I personally found attractive, (in comparison to alternatives), and I opted to go this route. The end result was very impressive. (I don't believe our friends across the water have this option)
I have posted pictures historically of this on the forum but if you cannot locate them I am happy to post again for you - let me know.
Note: I am in Shrewsbury so if you are ever down this part of the world pm me and you are welcome to come and see for yourself.       

Thanks - I found your post with the pics of your chassis, and it looks great. My T piece is in a woeful state, to the extent that I was hesitant to jack the front up on it. I used a 3x3 length of fence post that runs from side to side of the T and allowed me to jack it up in the middle and put axle stands at the ends where the steel looks more sturdy. And have placed wheels underneath the body tub in case of disaster. 

Spyder are very much in my mind to do the repair / replacement, it's very helpful to know of satisfied customers.

[EuropaTC]

Spyder are very much in my mind to do the repair / replacement, it's very helpful to know of satisfied customers.

Just to second that reccomendation for Spyder. I fitted one of their modified Elan chassis to my car around 1980-ish and 40+yrs later nd apart from the odd place, the black finish they did is there. I've also got their adjustable Europa lower link and front wishbones on the Elan & Europa, all very good quality fabrications. 

For my money these guys are like Richard at Banks Engineering, they not only know their stuff but are able to design & manufacture as well.

[Dilkris]

As a point aside - why has this, (and very informative and interesting thread), been launched as "It's not easy being green - 1971 TC"
I'm old - help me out here please - preferably gently.   

[4129R]

As a point aside - why has this, (and very informative and interesting thread), been launched as "It's not easy being green - 1971 TC"
I'm old - help me out here please - preferably gently. 

A song from Kermit the frog. Plus the car is pistachio green.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRZ-IxZ46ng&ab_channel=JayB7869

[Cheguava]

As a point aside - why has this, (and very informative and interesting thread), been launched as "It's not easy being green - 1971 TC"
I'm old - help me out here please - preferably gently. 

What the previous post said - the car was originally green, but was repainted black as a fake Special. I'm restoring it to the original colour, which friends have unkindly (but accurately) referred to as Kermit green.

[Pfreen]

That looks like pistachio green.  I like it. 

[berni29]

Hi

Looks like you are making great progress. I really need to get moving on mine.

With respect to the chassis, I do not know anything about the Spyder Europa chassis, but I do know about the Elan +2 ones as I have an older standard spaceframe of theirs and also a much newer Zetec version. I had both zinc primed and powdercoated  as even the recent one had started to show surface rust, especially at the seams. I would also measure any of their chassis carefully before use. I am 90% sure that the chassis on my Europa is good and just needs a full strip and repaint so hopefully I will not need to consider any replacement options.

All the best

Berni

[Cheguava]

Hi

Looks like you are making great progress. I really need to get moving on mine.

With respect to the chassis, I do not know anything about the Spyder Europa chassis, but I do know about the Elan +2 ones as I have an older standard spaceframe of theirs and also a much newer Zetec version. I had both zinc primed and powdercoated  as even the recent one had started to show surface rust, especially at the seams. I would also measure any of their chassis carefully before use. I am 90% sure that the chassis on my Europa is good and just needs a full strip and repaint so hopefully I will not need to consider any replacement options.

All the best

Berni

Hi Berni, thanks for the input. If the back section of the chassis is OK, then I'd rather go with just the replacement of the front "T" section. Spyder offer a service of shot blasting the chassis, testing it for straightness on a jig, and replacing the front section. The rear section has surface rust but may be OK. The front... see photo below. I'll be probably replacing quite a lot of the stuff that bolts to the chassis too, but focus at the moment is on getting the body off and doing basic prep as I'm a lot cheaper than the body shop.