It's not easy being green - 1971 TC

[Cheguava]

Been derailed by some serious dentistry, having been given strict instructions about limiting physical effort I've left the doors until I've healed a bit. Instead of which, I managed to get the dash out, and can look at it in all its (ahem) glory. Crash pad looks ok, but might get a covering of vinyl to freshen it up. Fascia panel has me in two minds, I'm not a fan of the OE lacquered floorboard look, and although the walnut veneer looks ok, i might try stripping the panel back and painting it matt / satin black.

So, onto stupid question time. My radiator was crumbling to bits as I removed it, but as luck would have it there was a Europa rad on eBay which looked decent, even had a Spal fan fitted (mine looked like it had been submerged with the Titanic). It arrived today, and is in evidently good nick, but doesn't have a hole for the Otter switch - it has an indented circle where it would be fitted but no hole. So I was wondering if everyone on here had an otter switch, or is there an alternative to switch on your fan when the radiator gets... otter?  And yes, I am getting ahead of myself buying parts at the strip down stage, but it was retail therapy.

[BDA]

I used a fan controller like this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN4XZI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It includes a relay and lets you dial in the temperature when the fan starts. It doesn't require an otter or other switch because it has a temperature probe that goes between the fins of the radiator.

[EuropaTC]

The otter switch has been redundant on my car since, well, probably before I got it in the 80s. The original owner of my car had fitted a dash switch and when I used the car daily in traffic I'd just flick it on if I got caught in a jam, otherwise it wasn't needed.  All that's happened in my ownership is to rewire and fit a relay in the circuit, plus of course changing the fan for a more modern unit. When I tidied up the radiator 10+yrs ago the old switch was still there but all it's doing is keeping the coolant in.

If you really do want automatic control and can't fit the OEM switch then aftermarket fans such as the Kenlow I have on the Elan came with a bulb sensor & leads which you could slide into the top hose. There is a small rubber moulding, hard to describe but mine is a sort of half circle with indentations for the wire. This sits on the alloy thermosat housing outlet and the original hose slides over the combination and seals very well. You can set the temperature you want it to come on and it also has an override switch with a light to tell you when it's on. The original fan has long since been replaced by a slimmer, modern unit but the controller is still in there.

Brian

[Cheguava]

Thanks BDA and Brian - that's really helpful. Either of those solutions sound like they would do the job, I'm tending towards the automatic with override which was what I had on my old Scimitar which was a little marginal on cooling, particularly if you were blatting along on the motorway and then hit traffic, it was good to get the fan on early.

[4129R]

I have fitted manual over-ride earth switches to my cars. The fan is loud, so you can hear when you have switched it on. Normally only needed in heavy traffic or road works with a long wait at traffic lights.

[Cheguava]

I have fitted manual over-ride earth switches to my cars. The fan is loud, so you can hear when you have switched it on. Normally only needed in heavy traffic or road works with a long wait at traffic lights.

Thanks for this, looks like I can fit a fan controller using the wiring for the otter switch, and add an override switch if it doesn't come with the kit. They all seem to come with a relay, which I'll definitely be using.

[GavinT]

Davies Craig make an old school fan controller with adjustable cut in point. I believe this is the type Brian is referring to.

There's also these in-line otter switch adaptors, too.

[Cheguava]

Davies Craig make an old school fan controller with adjustable cut in point. I believe this is the type Brian is referring to.

There's also these in-line otter switch adaptors, too.

Thanks Gavin - looks like I have decisions to make on the rebuild - positive ones though!  This site is a fantastic repository of knowledge - there's so much I've found out using the search bar, but I really appreciate the responses from people who've been and done this before

[Cheguava]

Wasted a chunk of the day getting refused from giving blood due to recent dentistry (different rules online to their handbook) so didn't get as much done. Offside door lock removed, harder job due to random nuts and screw headed bolts being deployed at some time, and removal revealed damage to the door that will need repair - grrr.  Got the wiper motor out and if I finish the o/s door and get the heater out tomorrow, that's about it for the interior.

Found the dashboard STL template and although I couldn't get it to print using a suitable app, converted it to jpeg so I can create a template to make the missing lower section of mine and bond it to what's left, with strengthening as required. Decided I'll cover the dashboard in vinyl, which I think should look good and cover a multitude of sins.

[Cheguava]

Sunny morning in Yorkshire (as usual) so sacked the garage off and cleaned up the plenum flanges for the eyeball vents and the front number "plate" letters and numbers in the sunshine. Good to be able to salvage the odd metallic item. Flanges came up well  but will need a polish to shine properly, and the letters and numbers will  need a coat of paint I think. Looks like these were silver.

Now got to break off and deliver my camper to eldest child who has a mould issue in her rented house. Don't these people know I'm busy? 

[Cheguava]

Back from South Yorks in time for a quick hour in the garage. Windscreen spray nozzle out, followed by heater. Hoses absolutely shot, one tore as I was wiggling it free. Will be replacing every rubber hose and bush though, so no disaster. Heater looks like it might be OK with a deep clean and a flush or two, but the gunge in the pipe running down from the heater will also need a thorough clear out. Still, will be easier to access it with the body off.

[EuropaTC]

I'd suggest you replace both of those steel pipes given the fact it's been standing for so long. I had to replace mine a year or so ago due to a pinhole at the opposite end and although it's not horrendous, it's a fiddle to do with everything in place. You can get stainless tubes or as I did, use copper tubing with plumbing olives soldered on to either end to replicate the swaged portion.

Brian

[Cheguava]

I'd suggest you replace both of those steel pipes given the fact it's been standing for so long. I had to replace mine a year or so ago due to a pinhole at the opposite end and although it's not horrendous, it's a fiddle to do with everything in place. You can get stainless tubes or as I did, use copper tubing with plumbing olives soldered on to either end to replicate the swaged portion.

Brian

Thanks Brian, I'll add that to the list, it's probably wise as you say given it's >50 years old and has been sitting so long.

[Cheguava]

More slow progress getting stuff stuck (quite literally at times) to the shell off. Offside door window frame really badly gunked into place, and quarterlight screwed in with inaccessible screws, but finally removed without breaking anything. The door locks defeated me tonight though, lock on the outside turning round and couldn't hold the screwdriver in the lock slot tight with one hand, so will have,  to wait until I can get my son to hold one side. Am I missing a knack to removing the locks or is it just PlusGas and brute force?

Managed to get the unknown locking fuel caps off - the mechanism was seized but managed to prise the cap off one with my fingers and the second one was much easier knowing that. Mechanism very flimsy and had rusted up. Tanks are bone dry, can see a bit of rust but won't know if they're savable until the body is off and I can get them properly checked. 

[4129R]

Am I missing a knack to removing the locks or is it just PlusGas and brute force?

If every effort with a spanner and screwdriver fails, you will have to cut one flat back to the thread with a Dremel or similar small grinder. Once you have cut through completely, all the pressure is relieved on the thread and it should undo easily. The problem is corroded metal is bigger than uncorroded metal, so it stops it turning purely due to size.

If you need a new large nut, I have plenty spare as I changed 14 door locks for new.