It's not easy being green - 1971 TC

[Bryan Boyle]

So, clutch cover came off nicely, and the friction disc fell out, looks pretty good condition tbh but might as well replace whilst I have everything apart.

Need to get the flywheel off to mount onto the engine stand, and for the life of me can't see online what size the 12 point bolts are that hold on the flywheel. Seen a reference to 7/16, but could anyone confirm before I order a socket?  Probably missing something obvious...

At least I can use the time to work on the transmission case and get the lower struts removed from it.

 

Also need to send that flywheel out for a little cleaning up.  Looks a little crusty to me and after all this time could probably stand to be surfaced and balanced.  Just my thought....

[Cheguava]

Also need to send that flywheel out for a little cleaning up.  Looks a little crusty to me and after all this time could probably stand to be surfaced and balanced.  Just my thought....

Agreed Bryan, I think it could use some tlc whilst it's off.

[Cheguava]

I don't know for sure, but I seem to remember using a 1/2" drive into a 9/16" socket to undo those bolts. So my betting is it is a 9/16" socket you need.

You won your bet  - the flywheel bolts are 12 point 9/16 - a socket made short work of removing them and I was able to get the engine mounted on its stand ready for further inspection. Looks like remnants of the original Lotus grey on the sump pan, there is more than a hint of blue in the grey.

Turning my attention to the lower struts which could not be removed from the gearbox due to the bolts being seized, I used a 1mm cutting disc to cut through the bolt between the strut and the mount, and the struts came out fine, but the bolt heads are still frozen to the gearbox and bellhousing. You can't get a socket on the bolt head, so I can't use my trusty impact driver, and I didn't have an open 11/16 spanner to try and shock the bolt free with so have ordered one.  Soaked the area with PlusGas, and gave the whole transmission a first coat of Gunk to start shifting half a century of grime. Hoping I can get the bolts to move with a little gentle persuasion...

[BDA]

 

[4129R]

If heating the seized bolts does not free them, the last resort is to drill them out carefully, taking care not to damage the aluminium gearbox casing.

If the drill goes slightly off-centre, enlarge the hole until part of the hole is right up to the aluminium casing, and with the bolt now partially relieved, more penetrating oil might free the bolt, or the heat from drilling might also free it up.

 

[Cheguava]

If heating the seized bolts does not free them, the last resort is to drill them out carefully, taking care not to damage the aluminium gearbox casing.

If the drill goes slightly off-centre, enlarge the hole until part of the hole is right up to the aluminium casing, and with the bolt now partially relieved, more penetrating oil might free the bolt, or the heat from drilling might also free it up.

That's pretty much the plan. "Luckily" I have a set of cobalt drills that I bought to drill out the door hinge posts, so if it comes to that at least I have tools and recent experience to draw on. As you say, being careful not to damage the casing or bellhousing. 

[Cheguava]

Glad to report that the bolts finally relinquished their grip, with the help of a rotating application of blowlamp, penetrating fluid, and hammer and punch. No damage to the casing, so time to clean it up a little - not planning on concours standards but the crud was so deep you could barely see the fins on the casing, so much scrubbing down with Gunk followed.

The lower bars had their bushes removed with the aid of a hole saw (a clever trick I found on the internet) and 50 years of rust and dirt came off with a nylon pad on an angle grinder. A coat of Hydrate 80 will be followed by a coat of chassis black, before they go back.

I'm now going to drain and refill the box, so have to decide which oil to refill the box with, but have posted my dumb question about that in the oil thread. 

[TurboFource]

That looks much better!

[4129R]

Glad to report that the bolts finally relinquished their grip, with the help of a rotating application of blowlamp, penetrating fluid, and hammer and punch.

No-one could accuse Colin Chapman of deviating from engineering design to give ease of maintenance.

A modicum of Copperslip on the new bolts should prevent further problems when you take it apart again in 30-40 years time.

[Cheguava]

Been rather derailed by family matters over the last month, but have been doing a bit in the garage on and off, to try and progress a little. Gearbox drained of oil and refilled, taking 1.75 litres (3pints), the amount that drained out was a rather sub-optimal litre, but all gears were engaging ok so fingers crossed. The release lever operates very stiffly at present, presumably another effect of having sat so long, having read Dazakman's threads on this, I have sprayed penetrating oil into the tube where the rod pivots, and will have to see if I need to take it all apart once that's had a chance to take effect. I will of course be cleaning up the bellhousing once this is all done.

In other general woes, the bolt that held one of the radius arms to the chassis is refusing to part company with the arm. I had to cut it to get it off the chassis, and so far neither application of heat and plusgas, nor welding a nut onto the end of the bolt and using my impact wrench to try and shock it free have made any, er, impact.  I think I am going to have to resort to drilling out the bolt - deep joy.  The cobalt drills I used for the door hinges are making slow headway so far, so I may need a couple of new ones. Got to keep persevering. And buying more shiny bits as retail therapy, that I won't need for ages. Ho hum.

*UPDATE* - the penetrating oil did its magic overnight, and the clutch lever moves forward and springs back like it is supposed to do, so I'm not planning to take it apart any further, just clean up the inside of the bellhousing. Ordered more cobalt drill bits to try and make more impression on the radius arm mounting bolt. Feel the positivity! 

[Cheguava]

Fresh cobalt drills did the trick, and the trailing arm bolt was persuaded to let go. And while I am still waiting for my chassis, and *still* waiting for progress on the bodyshop, time to open up another front, and have a closer look at the engine. Removing the nuts revealed precisely zero senloc washers, which was a mild concern, but underneath the cover, all looks remarkably nice and lacking in wear or scoring. I need to check the timing chain tightness with reference to Mr Wilkins' book, but I'm not planning to get the head off at this point - I've got a scope to look down the plug holes, and unless I see anything concerning I'm tempted to leave the head on.

I am planning to take the oil pan off though, the oil was dirty but not gritty or sparkly, but it seems sensible in case of sludge in the casing or on the oil pick up. Fortunately the engine rotates quite nicely and stably on its stand, so should make that relatively straightforward - any recommendations for sump gaskets?

Cam cover cleaned up pretty nicely, but too cold for respraying it right now - will have to wait until spring and sadly won't fit in the oven, but I think it will go in the gas bbq, so might be curing the wrinkle paint in that!   

[BDA]

A dark color oil should not be a cause for concern but a confirmation that the detergents in the oil are working. Having said that, taking the oil pan off and having a look would not be a bad idea. You might want to take a look at the #5 main bearings and the #4 rod bearings since those are the furthest away from the oil pump, they generally wear first. If they are over worn, while you're waiting for other things to get ready, now would be a good time to take care of them.

If you need new mains, some, maybe all, blocks take mains with an OD of +0.015. It should be noted on the inside of your block.

[EuropaTC]

Hi there,

Now this isn't what you'll want to hear but bear with me.....

Unless you know the history of the engine then regardless of how easily it rotates I would remove the sump as you've said and check the bearings as BDA recommends. But I'd go further and remove the head and replace the water pump in the front cover. Depending on where the timing chain adjustment screw is sitting I'd also consider the timing chain.

The reasoning is that you've already got the engine out and more importantly you've got time to do the job in what's a pretty lousy time of year in the UK (especially where you're living - we lived in Outlane for 20+yrs). The general concensus around the water pump from the Elan forum is that they last well if used regularly but these days with cars going off road over winter, it's the standing around and seals sticking that cause problems.  You can replace the pump in-situ, I've done it and it's how Chris Foulds told me they do the job but it's much easier if the engine is on a stand. 

The other aspect is that if the engine has been standing for years then I'd like to see the state of the valves & seats; some will have stayed closed but the others open to whatever humidty the car's stood in.  I probably wouldn't do that if I'd  bought it as a running, rolling restoration but if it's in bits already ?  Yeah, I'd strip it down, check the valves, shims, bearings, rings  and fit new gaskets while it's out.

Yes, it's further expense but if the bearings & bore check out then when it's back together you'll know for certain you've got plenty of life left in the engine and more importantly, it's not going to let you down in our glorious summertime driving.   

Brian

[Cheguava]

Thanks BDA and Brian, as ever I appreciate your wise counsel on these matters.  Oil sump pan is definitely coming off, and I will have a good inspection of what that reveals.

I will be also be taking the advice to replace the timing chain and water pump. The max slack in the timing chain is half an inch total, ie 1/4 inch each way per Miles Wilkins. I have double that, and I doubt there's enough adjustment left to take up the slack.  Like you point out, it's a far easier job to do with the engine on a stand.

[BDA]

WRT the main bearings, be sure to look up several videos on youtube about that. There are several ways people push out the upper bearing shell that are helpful and you can pick the method that you're most comfortable with. For me, I bent up a cotter pin (see attached picture). The "loop" of the pin goes down in the oil galley of the main journal and the top lies flat against the crank journal. By carefully turning the engine so that the cotter pin pushes against the edge of the bearing without the locating "tang", the bearing comes out easily.

After the upper bearing shell is out, liberally spray the journal and gap between the journal and the block with brake clean or similar highly volatile solvent (so it will readily evaporate). You can use the reverse process to install the new bearing shell but be even more careful. I don't recommend it, however. When I did that, the cotter pin slipped between the bearing shell and the crank journal (don't ask me how!) and that scuffed up the bearing shell. I was uncomfortable with using it, but luckily, I was able to source a single bearing shell rather than a whole set! I don't remember what I used to install the upper bearing shells but a brass punch or rod, maybe a piece of aluminum - something soft would be best but careful use of a screwdriver would be ok too.

Anyway, you might find a method on youtube that you'd prefer so check several videos.

Good luck!