Where to start on a top-to-bottom renewal of a '74

[schabelmj]

I picked up a '74 this summer that had all the bits, but has not been roadworthy in many many years. This will be a father-son project and at the end of it, we hope to have a pretty unusual but very cool street toy to scoot around in. I'm not married to a perfectly original restoration - and happy enough to deviate so as to benefit from more modern materials/products to maximize the fun quotient and hopefully also end up with something that won't leave us repeatedly on the side of the road.

Over the summer, I managed to get the engine started (happy dance ensued). I then started on disassembly. The body is now removed from the chassis and resting happily in a movable cradle that I made - allowing simple access to the chassis. I'm trying to figure out where to start and I think I'll tear into the suspension/brakes first. I would really benefit from feedback as to the pros/cons of simply refereshing the suspension to original, or to upgrade the bits. I also do need to lower the front - as I think the Federal Europa inspired today's Carolina Squat.

Thank you in advance for the comments. Mike (in Michigan - near Ann Arbor)

[BDA]

Well, the brakes and suspension are on the outside of the frame so it makes sense to tackle them first. There is hardly anything to rebuilding the front calipers. I got rebuild kits for the rear wheel cylinders but even though the bores looked perfectly smooth when I rebuilt them, they didn't work. New ones are inexpensive so I'd advise just getting new.

You need to decide if you're keeping your boosters (I assume you had them). It's very common to delete them and makes your brake lines a LOT more simple. If you go that route, you need need t find a smaller diameter master cylinder. This will give you a little bit more pedal travel. I've heard no complaints for people who have gone that route. There are several posts that address that on this forum. If you keep your boosters, you'll probably keep your master cylinder. I used to try to rebuild master cylinders but they only worked about half the time so I either get new/rebuilt or I send them out. I had my master cylinder rebuilt at White Post (https://whitepost.com/#hometop). If you're keeping your boosters, I'd let White Post rebuild them or buy the Lockheed replacements.

Of course, you should replace all the rubber in the car (bushings, hoses, seals, etc.). I would also consider getting new stainless steel transfer tubes. Aluminum tanks are nice but the original steel ones can be restored if you're on a budget.

I don't know if that answers your questions but I hope it helps anyway.

[TurboFource]

 

[BDA]

Oops! I didn't notice this was your first post!

   schabelmj!!!

Keep us informed about how your project is coming!

[TurboFource]

Paint that chassis while it is apart!

[SilverBeast]

 

Second all the above.  I would definitely replace the transfer tubes with stainless, it'll be easier with body off chassis and engine out.

...and replace the plastic top hats at the bottom of the gear lever (if they are even present) with brass ones, it'll be much easier with the engine out. It'll improve the gear selection noticeably.

If the engine was stood for any length of time without running, it's probably worth renewing/rebuilding the water pump while you have easy access to it, as it will start leaking at some point.  I'm going to assume you will give engine and radiators (don't forget heater rad) good flush.  Rubber cooling pipework will likely be coated with a rust scale internally that will partially drop off if you squeeze it, unless coolant antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor was kept up with.

[schabelmj]

Thank you for the advice! I am making my list.

[dakazman]

  Schabelmj, 

   A member certified lotus recently rebuilt his tc and documented the entire build.
BDA , has done a glossary somewhere on the site but it’s being a little elusive.
   I see your well into it all ready, so my suggestion would be to add some shelving and bin all the parts you remove. 
   Take a lot of pictures. Then take some more of everything you take apart noting routing.
   Download your car’s schematic and make a large 2x3 poster of it. Link is on the forum initial page .
   And when you’re at the sight direct to you will see an online parts and maintenance manual link.
     
   Enjoy your journey, post often.

Dakazman
 

[BDA]

Thanks for the reminder, D'man! This situation is exactly why I put that index together. Here it is: https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=4871.msg52756#msg52756

Since you got me started, there are more sites that would be useful for Schabelmj as well as others.

This thread has a pretty good list of sites that can be very useful: https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1389.msg12289#msg12289

Then there is what I consider the single most important webpage for the Lotus Europa owner: http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/ It contains searchable workshop and parts manuals, general information including color wiring diagrams, and information about modifications.

That should get anyone started!

[Bainford]

Welcome to the forum schabelmj. You have found the right place for expert advice and sincere sympathy. That looks like a fine project. From the photo, the frame looks to be in good nick. Dig those old tires, the same type the Europa was delivered with new. How long has it been since this car was on the road?

Good luck with your project. Cheers 

[dakazman]

  I agree with Bainford on the frame work. While you’re in there maybe you can compare your frame to an S2.  I don’t know what the differences are but it might be beneficial to make some notes.
Here is a S2 pdf file …, enjoy.

    Dakazman

[schabelmj]

@bainford - thank you. The chassis indeed is in pretty good shape. It has surface rust throughout, and I plan to wheel it down and then come back with a proper paint. For all movable pieces, my local makers studio has a powder coating studio, so I might go with that (assuming I can get a pinhole free cover).

I've printed out all of the manuals, wiring diagrams, and such - and they were so helpful when taking the body off of the chassis. The only thing that really gave me trouble was the steering column u-joint that is buried inside of the T in the chassis. Hmmmm. I've gone through a number of air cooled porsches, and those quarters are tight. But compared to that job, P-cars are spacious.

I'm slowly forming my plan of attack - which I think will be a chassis strip, rebuild what I can of the suspension, and tastefully upgrade the suspension bits where I can.

Then on to the engine - where I have easy access to everything incl the water pump. Hit the clutch while I'm there. Rebuild the shifter which I think could shift a tank's transmission. And then start on the body. For color - I'm really thinking of a the modern Lotus orange with full black trim. I think the mix of old and new style might be fun. But I'm a year away from that.

Thank you to the community! I'm sure I will share many many more thanks in the future!

[fort]

I would start on the chassis after it is stripped. It will need the rust situation addressed especially all the doubling points where the rust will or already has spread underneath. As well check all the usual cracking points. You will want the chassis to be as good as it can be. The rest is easy!

[TurboFource]

Fort …. 

[BDA]

   fort!!

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