Starting on Eyebrow and Dash

[Bryan Boyle]

Started upholstering the new eyebrow that a fellow denizen here shipped over from the mother country.  Lots of tugging, aligning, and making sure the french seam is on the peak of the front (which, being made of 2 fiberglass parts, had to be sanded down smooth and radiused properly so the resulting cover was properly aligned and straight. following the curve over the instrument and glovebox areas.

Think it came out (the top and underside are not attached yet) OK so far.  Figured I'd start at the front (which everyone will see...) and work my way back.  Going to be a chore to get it all smooth, no ripples, but I'll do my best.

Also dropped in a photo of the upholstery adhesive I'm using.  Hands-down the best for doing this work; I use it when redoing aircraft interiors, and never had a problem with pull-away or bond failure.  Just FYI, no $ interest, etc.

[TurboFource]

Off to a good start!

[BDA]

  Good work, Bryan!

[Bainford]

Kudos. Looking good.

Upholstery is one of those things I avoid, as it tends to activate my perfectionism and I am never satisfied with the result. If I farm it out, I am far less bothered. Looking forward to seeing how you get on with yours. Very tidy so far.

[Kendo]

Bryan,

Does that cement work for headliners, too?

[dakazman]

    Your doing great Bryan, wow, I didn't even get that stuff on commercial aircraft. I might add, your facia looks amazing.

       Pfreen, also did his and it came out perfect from what I saw. You may want to PM him and compare notes on the finishing and cutting part. 

   Dakazman
 
 

[Bryan Boyle]

Bryan,

Does that cement work for headliners, too?

Yes, I guess it would, but, you'd need a couple cans to do it.  I like the high-strength 3M headliner spray for that particular job.  What I've found in the years I've used both is 1) don't be stingy with the application (cross patterns for the spray, iow), 2) let the cement flash off as the instructions say.  Go hit the Keurig for a cup of joe.  3) Rough up the surface a bit so there's a 'tooth' (not a problem on the reverse side of fiberglass), and 4) start from the middle and work OUT to the edges.

Oh, and a heat gun to gently relax the vinyl for compound curves is always something to have in the toolbox.  Not on the "hinges of hades" setting, though. 

[Bryan Boyle]

    Your doing great Bryan, wow, I didn't even get that stuff on commercial aircraft. I might add, your facia looks amazing.

       Pfreen, also did his and it came out perfect from what I saw. You may want to PM him and compare notes on the finishing and cutting part. 

   Dakazman
 

Will ping Pfreen...thanks for the heads-up.  Was pondering that last evening while doing other stuff.

Yeah, been dealing with Dodge Stretch (owner of Airtex) for a long time (since I did my A&P training at Lincoln Tech in NE Philly back in the 90s at night).  For the general aviation bugsmasher rides, they're pretty much the go-to shop for interior kits, since they provide the burn certs and yellow tags to "legally" install the kits, and interior refreshment is an allowable maintenance task for an owner under Part 43.

I got the facia from australia, believe or not...fellow owner on groups.io list had a new US-spec one that he had no use for, since it came with a car that was imported from the US and being converted to the RHD formula, so it was excess to his needs.  Eyebrow came from a buddy in the UK.  Together, with shipping, total was less than the usual suspects are getting for just the eyebrow these days.  Either that, or it's the collective here and on groups.io that are taking care of each other (as it should be!).

[Clifton]

Bryan,

Does that cement work for headliners, too?

DAP Products Weldwood Landau Top & Trim HHR Solvent Type is good for headliners. 1 gallon is the smallest size though. Some product loose adhesion in the heat.

[Bryan Boyle]

Bryan,

Does that cement work for headliners, too?

DAP Products Weldwood Landau Top & Trim HHR Solvent Type is good for headliners. 1 gallon is the smallest size though. Some product loose adhesion in the heat.

You are right; the airtex is meant for aircraft interiors...which sit in the sun most days...and seem to hold on nicely.  I can see the Landau top and trim adhesive would be a good choice (especially if you have a black car like mine....).

[Bryan Boyle]

going a little further, but first, the flange of the fiberglass which meets up with the back of the dash was cupped and not at the right angle (90 degrees?) to set the dash in properly.  Long piece of angle aluminum, gently heat with the heat gun, and work the flange back to the right angle so the dash sits in properly, and the nose doesn't hang down in front of the gauges. 

Then...start with the contact cement (2 coats cross-shoot) on the base and vinyl for the bottom.  Flash off.  Then, working from the french seam down to the flange...smooth the vinyl to the base, leaving edges free.  Did just the dash side of the eyebrow for now.  Trim the flange edge of the cover.  Test fit the dash.  Think it looks fine.

[Footer]

Nice job Brian, it’s looking very good.
Could you be more specific about your affinity for the Airtex?  Are there other characteristics you like besides the long term holding power.  For example, once contact is made can you peel it back for repositioning?

[Bryan Boyle]

Nice job Brian, it’s looking very good.
Could you be more specific about your affinity for the Airtex?  Are there other characteristics you like besides the long term holding power.  For example, once contact is made can you peel it back for repositioning?

Can you peel back...yes, but...there is a short window before it becomes a case of having to strip back a ways, lightly reglue, flash, and then reattach.  I find the easiest way to do it one and done is to fold the piece in half over your hand with the glue side of the vinyl up, and work the vinyl flat as you unroll the cover as you move out to the edges.  Light heat to ease the vinyl works for complex curves (like the 'horns' of the eyebrow) and ensures that the adhesive is fully flashed. 

I've been using this particular adhesive for years in redoing aircraft interiors and it's worked pretty well for me there and in my other Europas I've resurected.  Did my seats with it last year (as some may recall...) and it's holding up just fine.  No financial interest, etc., just pleased with the results.  I'm thinking that the other adhesive mentioned above would be just as good; may try that (though, I have no idea what I'd do with a gallon of that...but, I've a lot of nostrums and liquids on the shelves in my garage...  You never know when you may have a use for it, you know?)

[Bryan Boyle]

Well...rainy day in Massachusetts...so no fun aviation this morning.  What better day than to spend some quality time in the workshop...so, got top vinyl cover done.  The forward edge is unattached to account for trimming fiberglass edge when installing. will finish the edge with black door edge trim as I did on 693R  It's not perfect...had to work the vinyl a bit on one side with my thumbnail to compress it a bit...but, that's part of the charm with a handmade car, right?  I think it came out just fine, though.

Cleaned it with vinyl prep, and dyed it to match the finish on my seats and door cards.  Nice thing about the dye (made by a company called "SEM") I use is that it covers the white edge of the french seam backing that got folded back over the outside of the horns...and riveted down...pretty sure it will be hidden by the "A" pillar, so not worrying about it right now.  Letting it fully dry in my living room (it's a bit chilly here today...and, yes, my house has that 'scent' from the dye..but that's ok.  Just have to keep the new kitten from using it as a scratching post...lol.)

[BDA]

Nicely done, Bryan!!