336 gearbox - Clutch will not disengage.

[dakazman]

I like that PCV pipe boot lid prop. 

  Bryan if you make one from 3/4” pipe then put a “T” on both ends . Always use a folded rag on the t’s when using. Without the rag the plastic t bends the fiberglass.  I haven’t tried pipe wrap or pool floats but they would probably work as well.

   One day I might get around to making the hydraulic lift .
 
 Really thinking of that clutch neutral starting switch on the extended shaft you mentioned.

Dakazman

[abramjp48]

The carrier is too short by about 1/2".  In order for the carrier to work you need to machine an extension that moves the throwout bearing forward by approximately 1/2".  I know this because I currently have the same problem.  The other solution is to find a longer bearing which todate I have not been able to do.  My winter project is to turn an extension.  There is an example on one the boards showing the extension but it doesn't give the dimensions.

John Abram
69 S2, 74TCS

[dakazman]

Abramjp48,
  The bearing is long enough on the carrier. The bearing has an internal backspaced sleeve. See pics
 By reclocking the cross shaft you are able to add that 1/2” needed .
   Pic 1- bearing at rest.
   Pic 2- bearing at full disengage
   Pic 3 - arm position relaxed after reclocking

  If you add the extension then the outside arm does not have the throw length .
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I missed posting this pic of the cable pass through anchor. The hole is on the right side motor mount bracket.
Dakazman

[BDA]

Don’t forget to double nut the cable so the nut won’t back off.

[dakazman]

  Thanks,
  I did forget but I did safety wire them. 🥴 the cable only came with two but putting on two on each side is much better.
Dakazman

[BDA]

Oops! I missed the one on the other side of the arm. I’m used to seeing two after the arm.

[TurboFource]

Isn’t that going to prevent the cable from moving in the arm by clamping the pivot to it?

[BDA]

It does look like it will prevent clutch cable abutment from rotating in the “hooks” of the clutch arm.

[dakazman]

  It does rotate in the arm  the nuts on both sides will also slide through the arm . The nuts only hold the adjustment ball at a certain cable length . The return spring holds it firmly in the rounded carrier section. I elected the safety wire so even if the return spring broke or jammed the the adjuster would not fall out and keep the nuts from any movement.
 Elastic stop nuts would work also  . The best solution would be to have the cable adjuster at the motor mount and stationary at the arm . Maybe my next mod but for now I’m using the VW cable .
 Could also try using other suggestions.

  Dakazman

[BDA]

Thanks for the better shot of it. That looks great.

[GavinT]

D'man, I'm curious.
Did you perchance happen to measure the height of the new clutch prior to installation?
By that, I mean, did you measure a height difference at the bearing contact point for the old and new clutch assemblies?

[dakazman]

 

  It’s shown on the video, and some of still photos. I think the dimension is about 3/4 inches of the release bearing carrier to the face of bell housing. That’s the difference of the new release pins ere made to take up.
  Abram put the dimension at about 1/2 “ as he stated. Others said they have about 1/2 throw of pedal
And others cut off the stop flange on housing . All would work.
  Is that what you’re asking?  Go on instagram for videos.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I think I know now… the side profile of the old and new clutch was the same and I can measure that for you .  I did match the thickness and also another flywheel .
  That’s why I just can’t figure this out , the why it happened, the fix I have is working great.
I can’t think of anything else.
  Wait I have one other reason for the shortened length 😀 this is far fetched but my crankshaft is from an 843 with a pulley for the front ac , it could be possible that the rear of crankshaft is shorter??
I have two crankshafts laying around, the 821 and another 843  I’ll compare tomorrow.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I think I found it,  thanks Gavin.
 
    The first pic is an 821 crank back end .
    The second pic is an 843 crank   
 
    You can see that the 821 has something that stops the gearbox from moving about 1/2” forward
    The 843 has the cutout with no stop in place .

** I MAY HAVE THAT BACKWARDS THE 843 JUTS OUT 1/4-3/8''. SO WHEN YOU PUT AN 821 FLYWHEEL ON AN 843 CRANK THERE IS A DIFFERENCE.

   That may be where the 1/2” story fall occurs.  Cranks are the same but that spacer/stop may allow the slop in the clutch pedal.
 
  Comments please:

Dakazman