Yet another TCS Master Cylinder Removal Question

[FourLoti]

Hello:

I've just read several threads on this topic but can't find the one I recall that mentioned rotating the reservoir to improve access to the top nut. There are two phillips head screws under the rear of the reservoir, and I assume the front outlet is held in by a grommet. Once the screws are removed, will the unit twist out of the way or can it just be pried off? Don't want to break it.

Thanks,

Ron

[Pfreen]

I don't what Europa you have, but on the tcs,  the reservoir is not easy to get off and if it cracks while removing it, you are out of luck since a replacement is not available, at least it didn't used to be.
I actually made an adaptor for the oem master cylinder and used a remote reservoir.

[jbcollier]

I would recommend replacing old master cylinders with new.

If you feel you must remove the reservoir, put it in a boiling water to soften the aged plastic.

[Fotog]

Not exactly answering your question about removing the reservoir, but I had no problem removing the Master cylinder if that's really your goal.  Use a short wrench, of course.  But it wasn't a big deal.

Now, I'm wondering about just how to get to the rear brake lines.  Not looking forward to that one.

Vince

[Lotuswins]

The front is held in by a metal wire clip, and sealed by a grommet which is really hard to find.  Yes, it should pivot once the screws are removed, but probably very little due to interference with the fiberglass.  IIRC I had to cut down a wrench to get in and remove the upper nut which is special but need not be.  When replacing use standard hardware to make it easier.

Removing the reservoir is tough, and boiling water is a great idea.  I drilled a 1/8 hole in the front of the MC right at the grove for the clip, then very carefully drilled through the clip so it had no tension so I could lift off the reservoir.  I think I got a new grommet from Power Brake Exchange in San Jose who had my MC sleeved in brass (an S2 cylinder though I used it on my TCS).  All moot though since I added rear discs the S2 cylinder didn't move enough fluid so I simply replaced it with a new 7/8 Tilton single circuit MC and replumbed for a single MC.  Much less trouble bleeding and I get a firm pedal though a little more pressure.

Jerry Rude
4005R

[FourLoti]

Wow, I've done some uncomfortable car things, but this is up there on the ball buster list. I was excited today and ready to declare victory after using the Ronco "Top Nut 5000 TM" tool to remove that bastard! See below.

BUT, then all that happened was to move me to the next BS challenge because the spring clip holding the operating rod into the cylinder is all rusted. As is the clevis lock nut on the other end. It was late in the day so I gave up, but tomorrow, I may be tempted to cut the rod in half. Hopefully not....

Ron

[FourLoti]

Victory!

Remove steering wheel, assume the position, stick an 8" flat steel bar in the gap of the clevis to prevent rotating, and thank god, the 1/2 lock nut didn't put up much of a fight!

Ron

[Fotog]

Congratulations!  Good to hear.  I wish I could recall the details about my experience better.

-V