1969 S2 - Remove body from frame

[BK911]

Hey guys,

Recently acquired a barn find of 30 years in need of about everything.  Noticed a bit of surface rust on the frame, so I have decided to POR-15 the entire frame.  So the fun begins!  Started stripping out the interior and removing anything I could to make the body as light as possible.

I could not find any documentation on how to remove the body, except in the workshop manuals which shows the mounting bolts.  Is there a good procedure documented anywhere?

For example, what electrical need to be disconnected?  Just to motor?
Doors on or off?  I'd rather not mess with them!

Any other helpful tidbits?

Thanks!
BK

[LeftAngle]

Lotus Europa Central has detailed information.

[EuropaTC]

Unless there's a detailed description in the manual, I think it's just a case of "go for it". Some random thoughts from when I did my TC;

I left the doors on, removed the seats but left the rest of the interior together.  Disconnect battery and all electrical connections to the engine. Removed gear linkage completely, disconnect heater & radiator hoses from the engine bay, drain coolant.   Disconnect oil feed line for the gauge (mine is mechanical, don't know about the S2) speedo cable, handbrake cable.

I left the engine/transmission in place and lifted the body off a rolling chassis.

There's probably lots more to add, I just can't think off-hand, so I'd suggest you take a few days to make a check list of things to disconnect, it'll get a bit of logic into the process & then tackle it in order. 

I didn't and tried to lift the body with the oil line still in place. It took me a few minutes to realize why the chassis wasn't coming clear.....  strong things those oil lines. 

Brian

[BK911]

Thanks guys.
I compiled a list from here and LEC for future searches.
Please comment as necessary.
I will update the list as soon as I make the attempt, hopefully this weekend.

Remove:
All lines going to engine
oil pressure line,
Speedo cable.
bolts at the rear, in engine compartment
Three bolts on the wall behind each seat.
Two bolts under fascia, going into chassis.
Fuse box on passengers side
Bolts holding the pedals to the floor
Master brake cylinder
Steering column from rack
Water hoses to radiator, under fascia
Closing plate between front of cross member and floor of spare well place
Hand brake on pivot top of cross member
Seat belt fasteners under/beside seats, one on each side of chassis

[buzzer]

 I would also add, depending on the state of the body work. If it is in good condition and you don't want to damage it further, I have been told that the front can be weak. Don't lift the body off by grabbing the front bumper as this can cause body cracks in the gel coat to appear above the front wings.
Good luck

Dave

[EuropaTC]

After reading this thread I got to thinking that given the age of our cars, a comprehensive guide might be something worth doing. Then, in a very rare moment of logic I checked Lotus-Europa.com to see if anyone else had started such a thing.

Bingo -

http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/body/Body_Removal.html

It's for a TCS and not S2 and the author does note there are minor differences but the basics should be similar.  It's a well thought out guide, I could have used that a few years ago !

Brian

[BK911]

Oh wow, thanks Brian!

[BK911]

Success!!

[EuropaTC]

Well done !   

Totally off topic - what's the car just peeking into the photo of the chassis - it looks very tidy ?

Brian

ps - I bet it takes longer to put it all back.......   

[cal44]

Dang..........that was fast.  What/Where were your lifting points?

On a side note.  I sold Por-15 products for ten years.  There is nothing better.  I still use today.  I have narrowed it down to the semi gloss and make sure you order plenty of "their" thinner.  If you decide to go a second coat, it will come out a little more glossy.  Punch two holes in the lid with an awl.  Do not remove the lid,  pour out what you need then screw in wood or metal screws into the two holes you just punched in the lid.   This way the paint will last a very long time between uses.  I also pour the paint through painters filters.  If you use the black, there is carbon in paint.  You want to filter that out.

Once you have poured out what you need, let that amount "gas off" for an hour.  It becomes thicker and you only need one coat.
Make sure you can eat off the metal then take a rag or paper towel and soak it with the Por-15 thinner.  Wipe down the metal again and again until the rags or towels have no residue.   Do not use lacquer thinner, it leaves a film. 
mike

[BK911]

Splitting the body and chassis was a PITA!!  Almost every nut and bolt had to be cut off because of rust.   

Now the engine is seized!  Took off the intake/exhaust manifold and the intake valves are coated in rust.  I will remove the head and see how the pistons / rings look.

To lift the body off the chassis, I used a floor jack with ~12"x12" plywood pushing up on the floors.  Jack up a couple of inches, insert jack stands with plywood.  Repeat on other side.  later, rinse, repeat until body high enough to pull out chassis.

The "other" car in the chassis pic is a 1962 Porsche 356B S90.

So now the plan is:
Pull the head to see if I can free up the engine
Remove engine, brakes and suspension
Treat the chassis - probably POR-15 (thanks Mike!)
Treat the suspension
Put brakes and suspension back together
Figure out what to do with engine


Several people have asked about paint.  Still thinking about that.  Car is listed as a BRG car, but was ordered and delivered in primer.  Then the original owner had her painted in this shade of green.  I may clean her up a bit, polish all the bright work, and leave the original paint on her.  Just lightly buff and wax.

[EuropaTC]

The "other" car in the chassis pic is a 1962 Porsche 356B S90.

Now that 356 looks cool.        I don't see many over here, maybe the odd one at shows but I can't recall ever seeing one driven on the road in at least the last 10yrs. But even 911s are scarce now over here and prices are rising at a heck of a rate.

Your method is pretty much what I used, and the same for putting it all back.  It's better if you have a couple of hydraulic jacks though, one at each end and it goes a bit quicker.
 

[LotusJoe]

Now the engine is seized!  Took off the intake/exhaust manifold and the intake valves are coated in rust.  I will remove the head and see how the pistons / rings look.

Try pouring some Coca Cola in the cylinders and let it set. Then try turn the engine over. Use regular Coca Cola.

[cal44]

BK911

Geeez what a odd world we live in.   Two years ago, or was that three......hmmm, I sold my '63 Black 356 S to a guy that owns the Ducati dealership in town. 

Joe, is that American Coke with corn syrup or Mexican Coke (Costco) with cane sugar?

Trust me, the Mexican Coke is better.

mike

[LotusJoe]

Joe, is that American Coke with corn syrup or Mexican Coke (Costco) with cane sugar?

Trust me, the Mexican Coke is better.

mike

Mike,
That is American Coke. Mexican Coke taste to good to waste on corrosion!