Straight-Forward Alternator Upgrade TCS?

[mylesofsmyles]

Hey all, new to the forum, however a lifetime Lotus Europa enthusiast.  We've been resurrecting a "new to us" 74 TCS in Lagoon Blue.

Now that we've got this ride on the road after a long hiatus in storage, my attention seems fixed on the Lucas Ammeter, and I'm concerned about electrical output.  The 35amp alternator doesn't seem sufficient by modern standards, and may not be enough should I decide to upgrade to real H4 headlights.

I found a write-up somewhere, documenting the modifications necessary to swap in a higher output alternator from some riddling Buick application, however the fabrication skills required to re-machine the housing and fabricate a bracket are a bit beyond my skill-set.

I have some familiarity with converting to 1-wire alternators in various different applications.  It's been nice, in the past, to ditch the external voltage regulator also, though not necessary.

While I did find a eBay seller with a "alleged" 75a alternator that'll drop in, I'm curious what the "kool-aid" solution is among y'all.  Can anyone offer some constructive insight on a straight-forward alternator upgrade that'll take this electrical system out of the stone-age?

[Grumblebuns]

Here's a link to what other people have done, and

 

https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=4297.0

[jbcollier]

You can now fit good quality HID bulbs to H4 lights (not the cheap crap that just create light scatter).  They also draw less amps than the stock bulbs.  So bright lights and no need for an uprated alt.

[BDA]

  Myles!!

[Bainford]

Welcome to the forum, Myles. Cheers 

[SilverBeast]

 

[4129R]

Just a word of warning, I have fitted new Lucas alternators, and they hit the luggage box. I have had to cut a pocket in the side of the tray, and fit an aluminium "power bulge" into the side. Sprayed to match the fibreglass, it doesn't really notice, and does not intrude into the box noticeably (about 1").

[Pfreen]

I have this alternator on my tcs.  I needed higher output because I have ac.  It fits fine and has been on it for 6 years.
I did need to install a diode in the alternator bulb feed to prevent back feeding and running down the battery.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-1982-Triumph-TR7-wo-AC-2-0L-New-High-Output-95-Amp-Alternator-Generator/192965039980?fits=Model:Europa%7CMake:Lotus&hash=item2ced9cd76c:g:ztQAAOSw~bFWIUgi&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA8M3LAxlDcBkUlcIAjTZgQxwpY/9j69NXjSaOYRqwMPuANz9dAt9EcV/ywh4uILoiI4hzTjXn/q73A1uCgAHmR/jHjX2qdoEd+QZhaRzbCso/oTbUI1i0FLBpFcLYQnBEffIbtFN3E/UzR2/Kyzdg84YYnCg/UESNZmP8W0zkd8rM7ho7s08VEkerRufjf73/T+SI+k46N+eexqNB917uMFQlldDCbWOJsJ6eAO3+dFLYlxgrAV8GkhG4PCK8XtqqyDg57elXEuhfX/GMdz0QCMV0yCOefSxMvgFGkAmat7OFQsx5o5aL8n4NhTqVv8PJGQ==%7Ctkp:Bk9SR7CHhvibYg&pageci=ce0f8ec9-2d21-45a1-9601-05f8e240c8bc&redirect=mobile

[EuropaTC]

Unless you're going to increase the electrical load or your existing alternator is broken I'm not convinced you'll need extra amperage. But if you want to fit a more modern alternative, then yep, go for it.

The Lucas 17ACR will fit but is very close. I think I had around 3mm clearance when I had one on, and had to fit a right angle connector to the wiring. (1st photo)

The A127 is a higher output, very easy to wire up and much better clearance. Plus it's a more modern unit with loads of applications in the UK at least. Going from the dates on the photos, mine's been in since 2016 and works fine.

Brian

[mylesofsmyles]

Thanks for the warm welcome and info fellas!

That link to the unit on ebay is similar to something I had found.  Looks like the ideal solution for a "drop-in" solution, despite still being from the "Prince of Darkness"

Maybe I should add a bit more color.  The car is running with a pertronix igniter unit, and I've since swapped in a retro style, bluetooth radio, and intend to install some Hella H4 headlights....As of now, it seems like I'm using 100% of the available electricity, so it's got me concerned.

Slightly off topic....maybe.  When I installed the pertronix igniter, the instructions advised to remove any resistors to the coil.  In my experience with other makes, the resister's were in-line, to the (+) 12v switched power to coil.  On this TCS, the resister seems to hang off the (+) side of the coil, and connect to the (yellow) wire that leads to the motorola voltage regulator.

Since it appeared that that resistor was for the voltage regulator/alternator, I left it.  Should I go remove it, and what would that help by removing it?

[FourLoti]

Sorry if this is a semi-hijack, but coincidentally, I just removed the alternator from my very original '74 TCS. Surprised to see that it's a UK Delco Remy unit. So either it was installed at the factory???, or a US owner bought it from a "foreign car parts" shop back in the day. Seems Delco Remy still makes a T1 style, but I've yet to find anything matching the other numbers.

[BDA]

That's the original alternator. If you need one, voltage regulators are available from NAPA #VR148SB (or were about 15 - 20 years ago. I think they are very common so they likely still are). The electrical posts may not be oriented in the same way but it's a simple fix. If you open up the alternator, make sure you mark the halves so that you can make sure they are clocked the same way as when you took them apart. It might be a good thing to do now even if you don't need to open it up now as if you're like me, you might forget that detail if you do have to open it up later.

[FourLoti]

Thanks. All the talk about Lucas had me confused when I saw mine was Remy.

I'll have mine bench tested and will keep in mind the replacement NAPA part number.

[FourLoti]

Continuing my hijack!

First off, that NAPA VR part number is still good - thanks for the info.

Next, I took mine to Advance Auto but they have a digital tester that requires a code. T1 R7 88 stamped on mine did not work. Surprisingly, their system lookup had the Europa TC listed, but that code didn't work either.

By any chance does anyone know of a different model number or designation for these Delco Remy units?

Thanks,

Ron

[BDA]

I took my alternator to my local Advance Auto a while back and as I remember they couldn't really test it. I don't remember any codes that they asked me for but I think the amperage was too low for their equipment. My memory is foggy here.

You may have to take it to a guy who fixes alternators to get it checked "properly." On the other hand you might try getting your own tester. I got this one (https://www.ebay.com/itm/144764781419). Is it better than what a place like Advance Auto's tester would be? I don't know. Is it better than an alternator shop's tester would be, Probably not. At the very least, I would expect that an alternator shop's test equipment would give more detailed information. It was inexpensive and got good reviews.