greenstuff pads: rubber backing or not?

[Bryan Boyle]

Any opinions as to whether (I have the anti-rattle fittings for the pads) the backing sheets they include with the greenstuff pads are necessary or optional?  Never used these particular pads before; thoughts?

(Hope not a stupid question...finished overhauling the ball joints, cleaned out and properly lubed the trunnions with 80-90 gear lube, packed and replaced the bearings...set torque to 6 ft/lbs per the manual (72 inch/lbs)...so just getting ready (with the help of a willing participant) rehanging the suspension and hubs and wanted to close the loop on this particular question. 

TIA.

[jbcollier]

About green-stuff pads, if you live in a flat, or rolling hills, area, they will work fine.  They have good initial bite and modulate fairly well.  But, downhill on long, twisty, mountain passes, the pads will overheat and fade.  It’s not the rotors as they do not even slightly discolour.  Mintex 1144 is a better pad material choice if fast mountain driving figures in your future.

As to your question, the anti-squeal coatings and inserts can be helpful in reducing unwanted noise.

[Bryan Boyle]

About green-stuff pads, if you live in a flat, or rolling hills, area, they will work fine.  They have good initial bite and modulate fairly well.  But, downhill on long, twisty, mountain passes, the pads will overheat and fade.  It’s not the rotors as they do not even slightly discolour.  Mintex 1144 is a better pad material choice if fast mountain driving figures in your future.

As to your question, the anti-squeal coatings and inserts can be helpful in reducing unwanted noise.

I have the pads sitting on the bench, so, might as well (famous last words...) put them on.

On the east coast here...gently rolling hills (well...there are a few exciting ones in Fall River...town was founded on a bluff where the local river that emptied the "pond" dropped 125' in less than a mile...which was used to drive the 100+ cotton mills in the 19th/early 20th centuries) but for the most part, nothing like the Alps or Rockies.  Easy enough to change if they don't fit the bill (mostly highway/street driving...not autocrossing or tracking the buggy.  About the only excitement you get here in MA are the sweeping exit/entrances to the highways.)

One thing I did notice as I was disassembling (and going to use antiseize on the pins and new nylocs as it goes back together....just to make it easier for the next fellow) is that the rule of bolts being inserted back, down, or in when installing was ignored.  The heads were (except for the top pin) all randomly inserted, even from side to side.  Certainly did not match the orientation in the parts diagram except in the alternative.  Sigh.  It's going back together the right way this time, with the torque wrench liberally deployed.

[S2Zetec54]

Hi Bryan

I fitted the greenstuff. I didn't fit the backing because I didn’t have a knife with me to trim and wanted to fit in the time I had at that point…haven’t noticed any noise from them. Slight improvement in initial bite. Rolling area around here.

Will fit mintex 1144 At some point to compare….just for my own interest

[Bryan Boyle]

Hi Bryan

I fitted the greenstuff. I didn't fit the backing because I didn’t have a knife with me to trim and wanted to fit in the time I had at that point…haven’t noticed any noise from them. Slight improvement in initial bite. Rolling area around here.

Will fit mintex 1144 At some point to compare….just for my own interest

I figure with the anti-rattle plates in place...should be ok.  The existing pads I took out (only half used, but since the whole shooting match was coming apart, made little sense to not refresh them) didn't have anything on the backing.  I recall back in the day shooting the backs of pads with some spray my wrench mentor told me he preferred, but, since then, have pretty much put the pads in dry.

We'll see.  Not like I have to disassemble the front again the change the darn things if they do make noise.  I'll save the backing pads in the never-emptying box-o-Lotus-parts.  Right now, I'm busy destroying an offset 1/2" box wrench to get it thin enough to get over that top nut stud (in between the end of the stud and the base of the back of the reservoir) down onto the nut.  Worst that happens is that I'll swing the old reservoir out of the way and get it that way...even if I have to 'adjust'' an open end to get down in there.

I have 2 replacement MCs...one is a .75 spitfire replacement (the reservoir popped off really nicely once I removed the retaining pins which provides nice access to the top nut) and I am pretty sure the actuating rod from the car would just swap in, and the F10, where I know I'll have to do a little 'fettling' of the thickness and diameter of the existing MC's rod capture washer to get it to fit under the snap ring.  I think I'll try the triumph MC first...and have the F10 as a backup (which I just ordered the remote reservoirs and hoses and fittings for from Pegasus).  Best that happens is that I have the OEM to send out for resleeving and overhaul for the shelf, and the triumph will work just fine.  Worst is that I have to dig back in, remake some jumpers, and install the F10 MC.  Figure once the hard part is done...the rest is just rinse and repeat and should not take the same level of effort or time (yeah, right?).

[S2Zetec54]

Good luck

Yes I have those plates as well……that seems enough

Seem to remember some sort of anti rattle grease touted around when I first starting driving and picking up tools back in the early 80’s….never used it myself.

I fitted Richard Winters master 0.75 cylinder that goes with his rear disc brake conversion in anticipation of buying the kit but have never got around to buying yet. Works pretty well