Driveshaft U/Js

[Impromptu]

Having understood it is better to replace the rear wheel bearings now I am having the engine and gearbox rebuilt, I also ordered new U/Js for the the drive shafts. I ordered 4 (same reference) from the UK, and was surprised to see 2 with a grease fitting and 2 without. The sealing seems different between the 2 (metal cap on the one without grease fitting). See image below. Which one should I use where on the shaft or should I contact the seller and ask for clarifications?

[EuropaTC]

Hi there,

Personally I prefer the UJs with grease nipples if only because I feel better struggling under the car every now and then to squirt some more grease in. Allegedly those without grease points don't last as long, whether that's internet myth, ham fisted fitting or just simply that the grease dries out if the car isn't used regularly - pick your own reasoning !

Looking at those photos the joints are obviously different in the end caps/sealing and probably different part numbers although I've no doubt they are dimensionally the same and will fit. But that's not some "special" arrangement you've been sent where one goes inboard and the other outboard, all the joints on my car are the same and always have been.

Again a personal view, but if that were me and I wasn't going to use the car daily and leave it static over winter (as with most classic owners) then I'd ask them to replace the non-grease nipple versions with grease nipple ones. If there was any resistance then I'd simply chalk it up to experience and buy two more with grease points.

That way when you set up the car in spring you can go round and make sure everything is lubricated properly.

Brian

[Impromptu]

Thank you for the swift feedback Brian.

Indeed, the UJs I removed had all 4 grease fittings. I'll contact the supplier and see what he says. On the other hand, it might be easier to simply order 2 additional ones, to avoid shipping and customs issues (they were not that expensive).

Jan

[jbcollier]

What brand are they?

[Impromptu]

I just checked, but no brand indicated on the UJs. They were shipped in a transparent bag, so no hint of a manufacturer on the packaging either. 

[jbcollier]

The same u-joint is used in the rear axle of a Spitfire.  Quality varies widely.  We found some u-joints were too loose and noisy right out of the box.  I use either GKN or SKF u-joints, period.  Myself, I would not use no-name u-joints.  And, GMG are crap.

[EuropaTC]

Definitely second the "quality part" bit as you really don't want any slack movement in the joints. Due to the suspension design these joints are forming the upper link on the suspension and not just transmitting drive loads via a flexible joint. So a cheap one with play is going to give wheel movement from day one and possibly bringing a failure at the UK MoT. 

The trouble is getting a good quality UJ, there's so many unbranded bits around these days. That doesn't mean not to use unbranded but it does mean you've got to assess them as they go in and not, as in the olden days, just fit and forget because you knew they'd be right.

Brian

[Impromptu]

Thank you for this feedback. I'll try to see where I can source SKF or similar branded UJs.
Jan

[Dilkris]

"...... and possibly bringing a failure at the UK MoT." 
Brian

Hi Brian - how many S1, S2, Twin Cam or Special Europa's in the UK, once registered as an historic vehicle, require a UK MOT...??     

[EuropaTC]

"...... and possibly bringing a failure at the UK MoT." 
Brian

Hi Brian - how many S1, S2, Twin Cam or Special Europa's in the UK, once registered as an historic vehicle, require a UK MOT...??   

Absolutely none. And I'll admit that I don't MoT mine either, but just because you don't need an MoT test doesn't mean the car must be capable of passing at any time you're on the road. Plus there's your insurance company to consider, they usually have a clause about the car being roadworthy and I'm sure they'd quote the MoT standard in any debate.

But surely the bigger incentive is having your car perform the way it was designed to, which means no wobble in the rear wheels or play in that top link/wheel bearings ?

Brian