Thoughts on doubling up electrical wires

[dakazman]

  Your correct Grumble, on both .
The tc fan is just looking for a ground to turn on and it doesn’t care where it comes from . It’s up to the temp sensor.
  The s2 does have a relay , in the simplified diagram I’m going through shows it without a ton of extra wires . I didn’t finish this drawing because of the ground connector feeding all the front lights . It is one thing I changed to more like the S1B triple front grounds. A,B,and C .
  The S1 in my opinion has a better splitting up problems by keeping it simple.

Dakazman

[califkid_66]

I have a s2 the fan takes the power from the relay, the wires were not long enough so I made extensionTo test it out ,I’m going to put red and black wires from fan to relay my setups in the picture

[jbcollier]

I hate those connectors.  They don't make a good connection.  They tend to vibrate loose.  And they look terrible.  Use "W" crimp or solder connectors, especially important with high current loads.

[Grumblebuns]

Didn't know you had a S2, everything I wrote was for a TC. Sorry for the confusion.

[Bryan Boyle]

PIDG terminals (https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/brands/pidg.html?tab=pgp-story ) attached with a proper crimp tool (and not the $5.00 POS you can buy at the local auto parts store which most people use) are even approved for aircraft use, and are probably overkill for something like the Europa.  Solder terminals in high-vibration locations?  If you use the right tool for the job...a good crimp connector will server for decades.

(some I made in the 80s are still fine in radio stations I built...)

[Grumblebuns]

If you want a more permanent connection, Spal offers a fan wiring connector sold by various vendors. A bit on the pricey side.

[Kendo]

While we're at it, does anyone know of a fan soft start controller that just needs the existing temperature switch in the radiator? Every one I have found so far needs its own temp sensor (apparently for the user to set the temperature to control when the fan goes on).

[jbcollier]

Bryan, I can't even begin to list the number of times I've been under a dash and had wires pull/ed out off those connectors.  Sure, if done properly, they work great.  In the field, not the air, they seem not to be installed properly time and time again.

In contrast, the above issues never happen with a "W" crimp.

YMMV

[Bryan Boyle]

Bryan, I can't even begin to list the number of times I've been under a dash and had wires pull/ed out off those connectors.  Sure, if done properly, they work great.  In the field, not the air, they seem not to be installed properly time and time again.

In contrast, the above issues never happen with a "W" crimp.

YMMV

Comes down to using the right parts assembled by the right tool for the job.  Or finding someone who knows how to do the job properly, listening,  learning, and practicing (thus not earning the "DPO" label).  I realize not everyone has had a mentor/expert to learn from (I was lucky to have a number of good wrenches and A&Ps to do my journeyman training under), but there are lots of resources that, once consulted (and testing out on the bench, not under the dash, beforehand), pays dividends down the road.

[dakazman]

I have a s2 the fan takes the power from the relay, the wires were not long enough so I made extensionTo test it out ,I’m going to put red and black wires from fan to relay my setups in the picture

 
    I would just cutoff that end and go for a more environmental splice, with some heat shrink over the splice . you don't need a disconnect there because you have one at the relay.

  Dakazman
 

[califkid_66]

That wasn’t the final wiring! I just did this to try out the fan and it really pushes
I went to see directly on the spal website and it says 25 fuse value 13 volts
Isn’t that a bit to much for the 30 amps alternator just wondering

[dakazman]

 Is your car running? If so, watch the amp gauge, now turn on fan and watch the draw, you can also load it up and turn on headlights, and run the windows up and down. Is the alternator keeping up?

Dakazman

[califkid_66]

It’s not running right now my alternator rotor went for  rewinding so I can’t test it now should receive it any day

[jbcollier]

A 25 amp fuse is required because of the larger amount of current required to start the fan.  Running draw will be much less.

[Grumblebuns]

I decided to pick up a clamp on ammeter and did a current test for my Spal 10" fan. Using an old but fully charged battery with a voltage of 12.7V, The Spal fan used 10.5 amps. This should be well within the capability of a 14 AWG wire 5' in length. With an alternator keeping the battery at plus 13V, the amps should be slightly lower. My mid grade meter does not have a peak read feature so was unable to read starting current. I will still plan on using 12 AWG wire for my TCS.

An oh by the way, the Spal literature does not provide the power requirements but if you plug in my numbers to the power formula, it comes out to 133 watts. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.