Another 46 to 47 project!

[BDA]

British Wiring seems to sell replacement wiring harnesses (http://www.britishwiring.com/category-s/205.htm).

[Sandyman]

What type of pasta sauce does one use on crispy spaghetti wiring? To keep the Lucas smoke inside the insulation I replaced my entire harness with one from Autosparks in England. It worked great, same colour coding. The front turn signal and side marker wires were the only missing items, (not enough length).

[BDA]

Pasta sauce… 

[DreamsOfA47]

What type of pasta sauce does one use on crispy spaghetti wiring? To keep the Lucas smoke inside the insulation I replaced my entire harness with one from Autosparks in England. It worked great, same colour coding. The front turn signal and side marker wires were the only missing items, (not enough length).

One definitely uses something salty like tears for spaghetti that crispy!! 
I've seen that British Wiring has something, as does Kelvedon Lotus and I'll check out Autosparks as well.  I have 2 weeks until payday so I can use that time to do some good research before making a purchase.

[dakazman]

   If your pulling the entire harness out anyway you can easily replace the wires that are damaged. I dont know the time frame of your project however, to replace one wire at a time while your doing other jobs will be much easier.  Are you doing a dash replacement, adding additional components, if so you may want to hold off.
 You can also build a build board and run in wires on it. Just my 2 cents
 Dakazman 

[dakazman]

 Here is a simplified version of the S1A wiring diagram that I simplified and clarified.
 I can send you a higher quality version if you want .
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Sorry for not noticing before but the rad fan relay wiring is incorrect.  The S1/2 use the rad fan from a Renault.  It is a puller fan.  To make it work, Lotus wired it backwards.  The red wire goes to ground and the black to power.  Dumb, I know but that’s the way it is.

It’s not unusual for people to wire it “correctly” and then have overheating issues at speed because the air pressure generated by road speed cancels the fan’s efforts.

[DreamsOfA47]

I went with the Autosparlks offering for the new wiring harness and its already arrived, 2 days early in fact! Though it its possible to fix the individual bad wires in the harness i figured that it may be a good idea to get a new harness given that its made with modern components and construction methods and its also not 56 years old! Aside form needing to replace the fuel pump and brake master cylinder (as well as bleed the brakes) the wiring was the biggest hurdle from getting the car running, at least that I'm aware of now. I hope to begin pulling the harness and getting to swapping them this weekend. The project has no time frame and I have no idea how long it'll take me to get it done but at least I can begin!

Dakazman yes I would appreciate you sending me a higher res version of the wiring diagram! Thats something I'll definitely need consult throughout this process.

JB I'll be sure to double check that I wire it in the correct orientation and if I run into overheating issues I'll double check that first! 

Related to the wiring does anyone know of a company that may have a set of door lock barrels and matching ignition barrel? I'd really like to only need one key. If no one has them all as a set, does anyone know which of the variation of lock barrels a 67 S1a used? I've done some searching on line and it seems the R16 used several key variations throughout its production run, starting with a single sided key and moving to a couple different double sided keys. Can anyone tell me what the early Europas used?

Also did the early Europas use Lucas or Renault ignition switches?

[Rainer]

You actually need three keys

Ignition is the lucas switch and key
Doors is Renault R16 barrels and keys
And the third one is for the engine cover and bonnet

This should be the correct R16 ones
https://www.franzose.de/de/Renault/R16/Tuerschloesser-Griffe/ANR87683/

[Hachille]

I went with the Autosparlks offering for the new wiring harness and its already arrived, 2 days early in fact! Though it its possible to fix the individual bad wires in the harness i figured that it may be a good idea to get a new harness given that its made with modern components and construction methods and its also not 56 years old! Aside form needing to replace the fuel pump and brake master cylinder (as well as bleed the brakes) the wiring was the biggest hurdle from getting the car running, at least that I'm aware of now. I hope to begin pulling the harness and getting to swapping them this weekend. The project has no time frame and I have no idea how long it'll take me to get it done but at least I can begin!

Dakazman yes I would appreciate you sending me a higher res version of the wiring diagram! Thats something I'll definitely need consult throughout this process.

JB I'll be sure to double check that I wire it in the correct orientation and if I run into overheating issues I'll double check that first! 

Related to the wiring does anyone know of a company that may have a set of door lock barrels and matching ignition barrel? I'd really like to only need one key. If no one has them all as a set, does anyone know which of the variation of lock barrels a 67 S1a used? I've done some searching on line and it seems the R16 used several key variations throughout its production run, starting with a single sided key and moving to a couple different double sided keys. Can anyone tell me what the early Europas used?

Also did the early Europas use Lucas or Renault ignition switches?

The ignition switch is a lucas on the first Europe. I only have one key for the whole car. I machined the Lucas starter switch to place the Renault system there.
http://lotus-europa.com/picview.asp?page=460009-1
The photo is of poor quality. But we recognize the shape of the Renault 16 key.
I had recovered the whole on an R16. I don't remember well, but I think it was the glove box key system that could be used.

[DreamsOfA47]

Rainer, Hachille you guys are awesome! thanks so much for the info!! The wealth of knowledge here is staggering! I'll be sure to order a set of keys as well as the proper ignition switch to make it all work.

I'll keep all of you up to date on the rewiring procedure.

[DreamsOfA47]

Well y'all I'm about 1/3 the way through swapping the wiring harness. I've run into a couple snags though...

Firstly I have an S1a and Autosparks advertised their replacement harness for all Renault powered Europas. This isn't too big a deal; more than anything it just means I've had to use a the Type 56 S2 wiring diagram instead of the S1a.

More frustratingly I can't seem to decipher the ignition switch wiring. The wiring diagrams on the sight have 4 wires coming off the ignition switch in S2 form, but the switch I have out of my car doesn't appear to be S2 or S1. It says made in USA but has no branding. It doesn't look like a Lucas unit either. The terminals are labeled starter, Ignition, accessories and battery. Can anyone offer any input on there the wires attach? I'm stumped by this at the moment.

Upon further inspection it seems that the white and red gos to the starter, and the brown i believe is battery power. It seems one of the whites goes to the ignition, and the other the tach but I can't tell them apart. I'm afraid to route them improperly and fry something...

[Richard48Y]

Ohm meter, light, or buzzer, check continuity to determine which wire is which.

[jbcollier]

The stock switch has four positions:

accessory - off - ignition - start (spring-loaded)

It has four terminals with 5 connections.  On the stock switch the terminals are labelled:

1) NW wire from the ammeter (battery power)

2) W wires, one to the fuse box and the other to the tach

3) WR wire to the starter solenoid

4) to a radio if fitted

Your aftermarket switch will not have a separate accessory feed.  Use an continuity tester to sort which connection is which.

[DreamsOfA47]

My ignition switch definitely doesn't appear stock by the token; my switch has 4 terminals with 7 connections but given that its labeled I'll be able to hook up those wires to the proper terminals. Also I'll have to move the fuse box from the right rear inner fender to the S2 location in the cab. Progress is being made!