Another 46 to 47 project!

[DreamsOfA47]

Understood get the correct bolt circle water pump. I trust RD's expertise to have the right one, but Classic Garage has what is advertised to be an R16/S2 Europa pump for $90 but I'm not sure whether it'll be correct. I'll grab belts while I'm at it!

The plug does say ignition, and it seems to have had the brown and green striped wire butt connected to the ignition wire from the alternator. According to the diagrams that brown wire would then go to a regulator. If the alternator is internally regulated it would seem that an external regulator wouldn't be needed. Does that seem right to all y'all? Or should I source an external regulator? RD also sells the 4-pin relay that the regulator would have then connected to so that would be easy to source.

[jbcollier]

You can't match the wiring diagram to an aftermarket alternator.  If you are going to keep this alt, then delete the voltage reg and wire it up as per the alt's requirements.

[DreamsOfA47]

Alrighty y'all, just a small update: the new Girling brake master cylinder came in and it seems to fit perfectly. I mocked it up and everything appears to line up as it should. I have to make a new line from the master cylinder to the junction block due to mine being too rusty for comfort and no-one I can find selling it pre-bent. While I'm at it I should also remake the reservoir to MC line as well. The old fittings were stripped so I was wondering of anyone could tell me what type of flares and fittings a new Girling MC needs. I'm not able to tell just by looking. JB, Swift I know you guys have used Girling MCs a bunch; do y'all happen to know? Anyone have any cautions for me about making brake lines for these MCs?

In wiring and water pump news I ordered some small bits from RD and they should hopefully be here by this weekend. I'll likely tray and finish the brakes, then the wiring then water pump.

[Grumblebuns]

The tube nuts for the Girlings should be 3/8-24. For tubing recommend using  copper alloy Cunifer, so much easier to work with than steel lines. Make sure to use use bubble flare.

[SwiftDB4]

Grumblebuns is right about outlet and brake line fittings. Inlet from reservoir is 7/16" x 20.

[Grumblebuns]

If RDEnt or DBE do not have the 7/16-20 fittings Fedhill does. I'm assuming that the line from the reservoir to MC is 3/8" so make sure that the 7/16-20 fittings are for the 3/8" brake line not the 1/4" line

https://store.fedhillusa.com/britishgirling-316475nutsandfittings.aspx

[DreamsOfA47]

Ah, Joji so the outlet seat does need a bubble flare! I'll be sure to check and make sure I'm ordering the correct size tube nut for the diameter brake tubing I'll be using. I have a ton of stainless steel 3/16 brake line left around the garage from when my dad redid the lines in his 61 corvette so I'll likely use that because its on hand even though its a pig to shape! I'll get those nuts ordered ASAP so they can get to me and get it done.

[Sandyman]

Finally a picture of my additional fuses and grounds. Snow on the ground this morning, I will look at the front wiring this weekend.

[DreamsOfA47]

Thanks Sandyman! I always like seeing how others mount their electronics for inspiration.

A small update for y'all. I ordered new brake shoes and new wheel cylinders from Moss and got them installed on the left rear today. The problem now is that the drum won't fit over the new shoes. The brake pads appear to be too thick. I made sure that the pads I ordered were the ones I was sent and that the adjuster was adjusted all the way in. Despite all that I wasn't able to get the drum over the shoes. Has anyone else encountered the problem? I'm thinking of trying to have the drums turned down to clear. Does anyone have any advice or cautions for me on this?

On the other fronts: the water pump and gasket arrived today as well as the regulator and relay for the charging system so I plan on finishing the wiring and maybe getting to the water pump this weekend.

[jbcollier]

Disconnect the hand brake cable and see if that helps.

[DreamsOfA47]

I did try that but to no avail. I also looked to find some adjustment in the wheel cylinders or the adjuster itself but no matter what I try the pads seems to be too thick to get the drum over.

[SilverBeast]

Have you a photo of the pads on the backplate with the drum off

[DreamsOfA47]

Actually my forgetful self didn't take one with the new shoes on and I've already put the old shoes and the wheel back on. I'll get to swapping them back on shortly for another round of troubleshooting. Sadly I had to move the car in the short term so it had to go back together with the parts

[dakazman]

  Dreams,
  I documented the rear adjuster disassembly here . It’s helped others.

http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=2058.510
Dakazman

[DreamsOfA47]

Happy Halloween y'all! I bring news!

First the good: I fully disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt the shoe adjusters for both rear brakes and that allowed the drums to just slide over the new shoes. Thanks for the link Dakazman your thread on it was very clear and helpful!! It was still a tight fit but removing all the grime and grit from the adjusters allowed them to move enough to clear the drums. I was also able to build the brake line from the master to the junction block and got the system properly bled. The car stops amazingly well! I've never had a car with proper non-boosted brakes, let alone one so light! The charging system has also been hooked up. I think the battery I had laying around the garage that went in the car is quite old and doesn't hold a charge so I can't establish whether or not charging system is functioning aside from giving the expected 14v measured with a multimeter. Lastly the brake lights have been hooked up and seem to function as designed.

Now the bad: out of nowhere the carb has started flooding so quickly and with so much fuel that it chokes out the engine. It's as if someone turned on a tap and I can watch as the carb spills over with fuel. At some point someone installed a Weber DGEV 32/36 progressive 2-bbl downdraft carburetor so I'llm take the top cover off and clean out the needle valve with either carb cleaner or compressed air. Taking the top plate off probably means ruining the gasket so I'll likely have to replace that too. The two inner bolts holding the carb to the manifold seem near impossible to get to so I'm hoping to not hav etc take the whole carb off. The only thing stopping me from rebuilding or replacing the carb is wanting to eventually (hopefully soon) upgrade to DCOE manifold but it may not be avoidable. The car was running so well and then all of a sudden its gone to hell so I'm believing currently its just crud in the carb but we'll have to see...   
The second bit of bad news is tat I'll have to send the water pump back to RD Ent. The pump I've been sent appears to have a whole between where the heater hoses go that isn't present on my pump currently on the car. I'll try and get pics soon but I have neither the fitting intended for the orifice nor the desire to seal the hole with JB Weld or TIG. Hopefully I can get the pump swapped out for one that'll be a direct fit, but if not I'll figure it out.

I'm quite frustrated by it all but that's just part of it. I'll take some time to learn more about the carb and calm down. They seem very popular swaps on old MGs and 22RE powered Toyota trucks so There's gotta be a lot of knowledge out there.