Another 46 to 47 project!

[DreamsOfA47]

On a more positive note here's a short video of the car idling very well before I started encountering any problems. This is after the car was warmed up and driven around my neighborhood for about a half-hour

https://youtu.be/HuciLGTygdc

HopefullyI can get it back to running this well soon because right now I feel like 

[dakazman]

  That sounds great,
  It’s an inspiration .   It’s about the joy after the sorrow.
  You will figure it out.
Dakazman

[BDA]

Carb gaskets are dry and unless it’s damaged, it’s not necessary to change it.

It’s idling very nicely! I would think that once you fix the needle and seat issue, things will fall into place.

[jbcollier]

Probably a bit of crud under the needle.  Not unusual when resurrecting a car.  Is there a fuel filter?  If so, how does it look?

Usually you can pull the carb top off without damaging the gasket.

Can you post photos of the old/new pump?  Might be an air bleed.  Is it threaded?

[DreamsOfA47]

Dakazman though you may be right, it's still very frustrating!! It's made even worse by the fact that I had it running is well and suddenly it isn't any longer! C'est la vie.

BDA you were correct that the gasket didn't break and I reinstalled the top without any issue.

JB I was able to remove the top without any issue. The fuel filter is a simple metal inline filter between the pump and the carb. The old pump was the stock SEV Marchal pump for the Renault 1.4L and the new one is a mechanical pump of the same design that was purchased from Kelvedon. Funny enough this fuel issue has only cropped up after I changed fuel lines and filter!

[DreamsOfA47]

So I'm very impatient so I through a headlamp on and went opiut to the car after work and here's what I was able to do:

The problem I was having was the bowl (the rectangles on the left) was quite literally filling up and overflowing at idle and choking out the engine. So earlier I managed to get the top of of the carb and was able to lift the top plate, with the brass floats attached, and inspect it. The float bowl is full of some pretty nasty looking yellow fuel that I wasn't na position to drain. The floats themselves seem to move well and they do engage against the needle valve assembly and the whole thing seems to move as designed. I wasn't going too take apart the assembly tonight but I took the carb cleaner I had and shot it into the needle valve housing. I'm not sure if that'll have made any difference but its all I could try today. I also blew some carb cleaner into the air jets and the seemed to be clear.

[jbcollier]

Pull the fuel line off the carb and direct it into a plastic bottle.  Crank the engine for 5 to 10 seconds.  What does the fuel look like?

Myself, I run a fuel filter with a clear bowl so I can keep an eye on the fuel.  You may have to remove and clean out your tank(s).

[DreamsOfA47]

I like the idea of the clear filters so I can check them out, but lately I've had terrible leaks with them that have caused several close calls and one small fire so I'll have to look for ones of higher quality if I want to go back to them.

I'll definitely check the fuel coming out of the tank with your method but I likely won't be able to get to that until the weekend with my work and class schedule. The same goes for disabling the needle valve to clean it properly. I have a 2 hour gap between jobs today so I may run home and try to start the car and see if I managed to blow out the valve, but I doubt it worked given that I didn't disassemble the components and blow out the actual needle. I just stuck the carb cleaner in the assembly's holes and blew it in. Sunday I'm picking up twin aluminum S1 tanks from a local member and I may be able to have those swapped out.

[BDA]

I expect you would have noticed this but in case it didn’t occur to you, could there have been a leak in your floats? Shake them or even weigh them (I think I’ve seen some floats marked with their weight).

[DreamsOfA47]

BDA I did closely examine and manipulate the floats and they appear to be intact and functioning as designed. Thankfully they weren't broken or perforated or full of fuel. Actually the whole carb seemed in very good shape save some slight green oxidation on the brass floats but that was minimal.

Well, lads it seems that the carb cleaner shot into the needle assembly did the trick well enough to get the carb to run properly and the idle to smooth back out like that video. Obviously I have some cleaning to do and I'd like to get the new tanks in sooner rather than later. But we'll see how it all goes.

[BDA]

 

[Bryan Boyle]

Brake shoes are early Triumph GT6
Ignition switch is standard Lucas fare.  Try early MGB or early Triumph Spitfire or TR4

Wiper motor is a bit more complicated.  The “motor” part is all the same but the drive wheel inside varies and is specified in degrees written on the wheel itself.  Get it wrong and the wipers will travel too far, possibly running onto the bodywork.  Also, the wheel boxes are different between single and dual wiper set-ups. They have a different number of teeth on their drive gear.  Here’s where it gets worse.  Part numbers I can find but not the specifics of degrees or the number of teeth.  So it is tricky to try and find substitutions from other brand’s parts bins.

Ignition switch: 36B6015R (same as elan, etc).
Wiper Wheelbox for dual wipers: 54M6056 40 tooth
Wiper Wheelbox for single wiper:   36M6151  32 tooth
Wiper wiper motor gear dual wiper: 36M6276 110 Degree
Wiper motor gear single wiper: Lucas # LU54702587 130 Degree

[DreamsOfA47]

Thanks, Brian! That'll make tracking down the specific parts much easier!

Lads, I've run into a new problem: when I shut off the key the car stays running! The only way for me to get it to shut off is to unplug the white ignition wires from the back of the ignition barrel. Anyone have any idea what may be causing this or where I should begin looking for things to fix?

[Richard48Y]

Ignition/Alternator not wired correctly.
Power is still reaching the coil with ignition off.
You need to move one wire.

[DreamsOfA47]

Something tells me the alternator isn't hooked up properly. I don't think I'm charging the battery either come to think of it.