WTB. Headlight switch and knob for a TCS...been repaired by incredible neighbor

[Bud]

If anyone has the headlight switch and used knob for aTCS, please pm me and we can discuss
Thanx

[BDA]

I believe this is the switch you’re looking for (https://mossmotors.com/switch-head-side-lamp-classic-gold). I got mine from what is now Lotus Supplies (https://www.lotus-supplies.com/parts/) but on a quick look, I didn’t see it. I’ve seen them from other more generic Brit car parts suppliers too. If I find them, I’ll post them but Moss Motors probably a good source for you.

[SilverBeast]

My UK TCS headlight switch is a three position rocker (off, side, headlight)

[BDA]

Hmm... I assumed that all TCS headlight switches are the same! You learn something new every day!

I guess Bud will have to tell us what type he has.

[Bud]

Actually BDA has the best alternative for a switch although you have to either cut off the connectors and add something to the connectors to hook up to the switch
Somebody from the Toronto Triumph Club sent me a used one for FREE...what a nice man
 Once I get it and will see how well it adapts to everything

[BDA]

If your free switch doesn't work out for you, the one I mentioned works fine. I think I got some male connectors that you usually see on a coil and screwed them to the posts with the screws provided. The the stock wire connectors fit right on.

[Bud]

I tried to get it into the location and unfortunately it is a 1/4" too short...due to the wood dash versus the metal dash on Triumphs. How did you overcome the issue

[jbcollier]

Do you have the right mounting bezels?  RD sells them.

54M6058/9

[BDA]

I tried to get it into the location and unfortunately it is a 1/4" too short...due to the wood dash versus the metal dash on Triumphs. How did you overcome the issue

Hmmm… I might have thinned around the hole as the dash was out when I set mine up. If you didn’t get it from Lotus Supplies you might give them a call and see if theirs works for thicker panels but I suspect not.

What is wrong with your original switch. I saw where a guy wrote up how to repair them.

[Bud]

I didn't plan on taking out the dash so I have to be inventive. If you come across the article on how to repair them it would be great.

Basically one of my three connections inside the switch was not positioned properly and we had to disassemble it as the spring and bearing came out. We are planning on drilling a small hole in the opposite side and pushing out the brass fitting, inserting everything and putting the brass insert back into place and hoping that it will work again
If not I may have to expand the hole in front to the diameter of the euchon to accept the unit

[BDA]

I'm not sure this will help but here is the article I was thinking about (thanks for the reminder):http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/electrical/head_sw.html

I took mine apart which is the reason I had to get one from Richard. Getting it back together seemed to be a very daunting task! I still have the parts saved in a ziplock baggie in case I feel motivated to try!

[Bud]

So problem solved again by my incredible neighbor who took the switch apart and drilled a hole in the opposite side where the brass insert is. He pushed a thin nail through the hole and popped out the insert. he then went about cleaning and fixing everything and put it back together from memory. Worked like a charm. Just remember the whole sequence when dismantling and you shouldn't have any issues. Using a TR3 switch is a great alternative if you have the dash out because the TR3 switch is just a bit shorter and you won't be able to capture the threads. You will have to thin the wood somewhat to make it fit properly

[BDA]

Let's hear it for handy neighbors!!! 

[Bryan Boyle]

So problem solved again by my incredible neighbor who took the switch apart and drilled a hole in the opposite side where the brass insert is. He pushed a thin nail through the hole and popped out the insert. he then went about cleaning and fixing everything and put it back together from memory. Worked like a charm. Just remember the whole sequence when dismantling and you shouldn't have any issues. Using a TR3 switch is a great alternative if you have the dash out because the TR3 switch is just a bit shorter and you won't be able to capture the threads. You will have to thin the wood somewhat to make it fit properly

A forstner drill bit NOT pushed all the way through will countersink the hole enough to let you grab the 4 or 5 threads to put the fixing nut on.