72 TC restomod from BAT

[jbcollier]

The stock Europa rad does not vent heat into the plenum.  It vents into the right wheel well.  220 is hot for a 60s engine.

This is a resto-mod.  I've no idea what's been done to it.  Could you post the BAT link so we can examine the photos in detail?

[jbcollier]

Skip that, found it:

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-lotus-europa-5/

[jbcollier]

Air is coming in, some goes through the centre mounted rad and I'll bet they have air exiting through the chassis -- this is normally sealed off.  This is not good.  First air can go around the rad rather than through.  Second, the hot air is not only heating your tunnel and yourself, it's heating up the engine compartment and engine air intake.

Time for some reengineering.

You have several options:

- fit a single thick rad on the right side as per original (uprated rads and, more importantly, fans are available)
- fit two rads, one on either side (more cooling capacity -- not sure this is needed myself)
- fit rad right side and ac left side (which would eliminate AC heat load on the rad)
- or use your front hood with an extractor vent (would require sealed ducting to make sure all heated air exits out)

I would recommend, and have done so myself, the first option.  I have a larger than stock rad with the AC condenser mounted in front with a rad fan that pushes huge air.  I use a fan controller that runs the fan at 50% when the AC is on, and the usual rad fan switch in the coolant.  Works well.

[jbcollier]

Looking at the auction photos, the shocks look like they had fresh paint and not much else.  Good idea to fit new ones.  RD Enterprises, Dave Bean, Lotus Supplies, Kelvedon, etc can supply shocks and springs to suit your requirements.

Suspension bushings look to be ok.  They have also lowered the front too far so the tie-rods are angled up to the steering arm.  This would indeed give massive bump steer!  The 65 and the TC/S had their noses raised to reach legal headlight heights.  You can lower them "some" but lowering them significantly without inducing bump steer is tricky.  You might have to switch to rod ends and mount them underneath the arm.

[Polopharm]

Great info will try n get suspension stuff ordered today. I saw the ones you got, they are car porn, do the gt40 style hoods actually help or a
re they more co
smetic? I am guessing my bushings insurance were damaged in the way you describe. Is there normally any heat shield around the radiator lines ?
How does the wiper switch work? Mine is pulled out like a choke would be. When I push in it wants to push back out. And not sure if it rotates?

The ac for those that asked has a on, off, vent, recirculate switch, so it can get straight fresh air when driving just not cold.

Weird question my consulier GTP my other "ugly" mid engine composite car has the radiator behind the engine , like at the back of the cargo area in the engine compartment. Has anyone done anything similar? It avoids all that heat in the cabin.

I am also going to look at the shifter cable set up as it may be a viable option

[SilverBeast]

My wiper switch is rotate clockwise to turn on wipers. Push is supposed to be a manual pump to squirt the water onto the screen. It does this but is reluctant to return (spring back out).

The Twin Cams don't usually have a closing plate to seal off the rack and chassis access from the front compartment like S1/2 do, it's all part of the overall body with the hoses poking through holes and going straight to the radiator, so  air shouldn't be able to get into the chassis normally. The tunnel does get hot as the uncooled water is passing through the steel cooling tube on the way to the radiator. If you haven't got a foam pad blocking the hole under the armrest it will feel hot coming from under there. Cooling lines aren't normally shielded.

[Polopharm]

Going to spend some time this weekend trying to resolve some issues.
I realize this is
 pretty idiotic but I still can't figure out wiper switch- how does it work

I am going to check coolant level , does the system need to be bled? In my other mid engine cars you jack up the car such that the radiator filler is highest point on the cooling system. Are there other factors in the europa?

What tire pressure , ball park do you all run?

Hopefully the fluid loss is nothing major,  previous owner says he NEVER checked it during his ownership!
He told me suspension was on his to do list, would have been nice to disclose that!

[jbcollier]

If it has the stock switches, then the owners manual will show you how to work the wipers:

http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/index.htm

[BDA]

I’ve always burped the cooling system the same way as any car - with 4 wheels on the ground. Maybe jacking up the front would be better. I don’t think it would hurt to do it that way.

Tire pressures are called out in the Technical Data section of the work shop manual (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcwork/tech/tctech.pdf). It lists pressures for under 100mph and over 100mph. At least one knowledgeable person I’m aware of prefers the over 100mph pressures so it might be useful to experiment a bit.

Make sure you bookmark http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/. It is the largest amount of information about Europas on one page.

[jbcollier]

TC engines are not too fussy about bleeding.  Slowly fill the system with the bleeders open and then open the rad bleeder again when the coolant is hot and pressurized.  Renault engines are VERY fussy and need to be carefully bled as the thermostat is not the highest point in the cooling system.  They have bleeders at the rad and water pump.  Once properly bled, they are fine.

Your Europa is complicated by the fact it has a Toyota engine.  Look closely and see where the high spots in the cooling system are.  "PROBABLY" it is much like the TC with the thermostat located high.  In which case fill carefully with bleeders open and then run it up and bleed at the rad.

(That said, I would like to see detailed photos of how the rad is mounted and plumbed)

[Polopharm]

I am posting a picture of the last sale of my new vehicle. Is listed on the cars/rollers for sale includes some applicable pictures. Info from the previous owner or better still the builder would be appreciated

[jbcollier]

Still like to see photos of the rad and plumbing, but, in order to make this work, I would go back to a stock style rad mounted in the front of the RH wheel well.  This will get the waste heat out of the car and make a huge difference to your comfort and engine cooling.  You can get cheap, Chinese aluminium rads for as low as $69.  Myself, I have bought the Kelvedon race rad for a whole lot more.  Regardless of which rad you get, throw away the supplied cooling fan and fit a high-flow one from Spal or Mercedes.  Also two Gates 20661 rad hoses and a rad fan switch to suit the location of the sensor.

[Polopharm]

Still trying to figure out the wiper switch. Enclosed is a picture. The wiper switch is in the pulled out position all the time. It doesn't appear to twist or to push in. What is normal operation?

[Polopharm]

Wow guys. I am really a numbskull. My phone and this forum do not get along. I just now have seen the 2nd page of respondes to my questions , I will read through and digest it all. Apologies for seeing to ignore some great posts and info!!

[Polopharm]

Well report back in depth but wondering if the clutch pedal has any adjustment at the pedal itself?
I am swapping slave cylinder to attempt to alter pedal feel and engagement.
Builder did a less professional job on the slave cylinder mount and how it engages the tranny.
Pictures to follow.