Europa TC added to the Herd!

[wilkrod]

Does this help?
Thanks

[BDA]

That is confusing. The manual strongly implies the tags are round (mine was) and the suffixes are three digits (mine was pretty beat up but it said "000" the best I could tell. I'm guessing you have a 020 but you might try asking Michel at Alpine-America (http://www.alpine-america.qc.ca/). Michel speaks English but his accent is really heavy so it's hard to understand him. If you don't know French, you might use a translation app to translate your message from English to French and email it to him. His email is mguegan@alpine-america.qc.ca.

[TheKid#9]

What steering wheel are you referring to?

The OMP one on the Europa

[wilkrod]

Kid,
Sorry I don't have any info on the wheel/hub, just that it fit the europa fine, I will sell it if you are interested, it's like new.
Jeff

[wilkrod]

Hi all,
So last step in removing the old fuel system, tanks are out for cleaning, good thing as I see I need a new fuel level sending unit! Special tool was made at great expense for holding the non captive bolts in the brackets while I backed off the nut in the sill cavity. To make life easier for the re-install, I am thinking rivnuts in the brackets and bolting in from the sill cavity. Any thoughts of wisdom? The bolts cannot be captive in the brackets without modifying the access hole in the bottom of the body to accommodate the extra width.
Regards

[gideon]

Ugh - it's a good job the tanks are alumin(i)um.

[wilkrod]

Hi All,
Tanks are done, going back in tomorrow.
Can anyone recommend a plug wire set to go with the 123 Distributor?
Thanks

[Bryan Boyle]

Hi all,
So last step in removing the old fuel system, tanks are out for cleaning, good thing as I see I need a new fuel level sending unit! Special tool was made at great expense for holding the non captive bolts in the brackets while I backed off the nut in the sill cavity. To make life easier for the re-install, I am thinking rivnuts in the brackets and bolting in from the sill cavity. Any thoughts of wisdom? The bolts cannot be captive in the brackets without modifying the access hole in the bottom of the body to accommodate the extra width.
Regards

The original tanks had captive nuts welded to the brackets, so inserting the bolts from the wheel arch openings is how they were originally installed.

[wilkrod]

Excellent!
Glad I was on the correct track.
Welding steel nuts to aluminum brackets is above my pay grade, so went with the riveted nut plates.
They went in with no issues.
Regards

[dakazman]

Excellent!
Glad I was on the correct track.
Welding steel nuts to aluminum brackets is above my pay grade, so went with the riveted nut plates.
They went in with no issues.
Regards

    x2 that
Dakazman

[wilkrod]

Progress, tanks cleaned, new level sender installed, tanks back in place, the nut plates worked perfectly! New flip fill caps added. I will start plumbing today as I wait for the hurricane to arrive.

[wilkrod]

Hi All,
So fuel system plumbing is complete, all AN with a Facett vertical fuel pump. Carbs are ready to install. Need to get the wiring sorted, kind of a mess, but shouldn't be a problem. FYI, you can remove the dashpad with out removing the windshield, you can access the screws holding the the vents from underneath once you remove the instrument panel. Not easy, but beats removing the glass.
Regards

[BDA]

Nicely done on the plumbing and pretty clever of you to think about loosening those screws from under the crashpad! If that is ever a problem for me, I don't think that would work for me because I think the screws are too long to exit the crashpad with the windshield there.

[wilkrod]

Hi All,
Continuing to unravel this wiring mess.
Does anyone know what this white connector is for?
Also my ignition switch connector is missing whatever hardware holds it to the lock mechanism, anyone know if this hardware is available?
Thanks much

[BDA]

It's been a while since I've been under the dash there but I don't remember seeing anything like that white plug.

IIRC, the ignition switch is held on to the lock mechanism with a plastic cover. Mine developed a crack so taped the crack and keep the plastic cover for making sure nothing shorts any of the wires going to the switch. I hold the switch onto the lock with a zip tie. I've heard someone else here has done the same thing. That repair has worked for more than 20 years on my car.