Europa TC added to the Herd!

[BDA]

First, from what I was able to tell, you only get one meter of cable which isn't going to be enough so you're going to have to make your own. To your question, your cable would normally be sheathed from the arm hanging down from part #4 (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/j/tcje.pdf) back to the linkage as displayed in the pictures.

[wilkrod]

Hi All,
Duh! stock cable can be used, just have to shorten the outer sheath about 3".
Works fine, have to see if I want to use both return springs.
Regards

[BDA]

Beautiful motor!

I use both springs on mine. Belt and suspenders...

[wilkrod]

Thanks!
I will hook up the second spring, and see if it's too stiff.

[wilkrod]

Progress chart.

[wilkrod]

Hi all,
Anyone use stat-o-seal washers on the banjo fuel inlets of the webers? I can't get mine to stop weeping fuel with the standard washers.
Thanks

[BDA]

Stat-o-seals would definitely work buy you should make sure that hole in the banjo bolt still aligns with the fluid path in the banjo fitting (it is unlikely not to but you should make sure).

Before you do that, what kind of washers are you using? Looking at the fuel components at Pierce Manifolds (https://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/149.htm), they seem to use fiber washers. I've also seen copper washers used. You didn't mention it but I'd advise that you resist the temptation to use silicone since it is attacked by the gasoline and could (will) get in your carb.

I think the fiber washers are your best bet but they also offer the bits to eliminate banjo fittings all together without the expense of stainless steel braided line. Certainly a lot more expensive but it eliminates potential leak paths that are endemic to banjo fittings.

[jbcollier]

I use aluminium or copper sealing washers, preferably the former.

[4129R]

I have just bought two pairs of banjos, and they came with red fibre washers, a large one and a smaller one.

[jbcollier]

It will work just fine.

[wilkrod]

So, I fitted the stat-o-seals, worked perfectly, no more weeping fuel.
Next problem.
Engine will not fire, not even a cough.
I have spark, float bowls are full, timing should be close enough to at least get a cough. Pulled a plug, dry as a bone.
Any thoughts
Thanks

[BDA]

What is the condition of your carbs? Assuming they are in good shape, your jets are clear, try pumping the gas a few times before you try to start it. Do your accelerator pumps work and are the jets are clear?

The fuel level is very important. This is the way I do it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meaGMoH4Pmw), but if y don’t have an electric fuel pump, that won’t work for you. Here’s another method (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT_CXqG8tn4).

[jbcollier]

I see the starter carbs are not hooked.  There will be squat fuel flow for a cold engine.  Use a small mirror to make sure the accel pumps are working.  Pump 4 or 5 times and hit the throttle slightly open.  See if it fires/coughs now.

I set up the starter carbs on my Dells.  Works great.  Starts far easier than the pump and pray technique.

[wilkrod]

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the response.
Carbs are new jetted per Wilkins TC book, new electric pump, which is working. I did check, set the float levels per the Des Hammill Weber book. Checked the fuel level in the bowls using a wood dowel in the main jet hole after removing the main jet, and measured a consistent 1.5" after turning off the fuel pump. So it would seem I have sufficient fuel in the bowls.
I do have the cold start carb hooked up, and did use it my last attempt.
Do have to just crank the shit out of it?
Thanks

[jbcollier]

Do you have oil pressure when cranking?