For those who have actually put real mileage on your cars...

[BDA]

Several months ago, I saw that Lotus Supplies seemed to be selling new Genuine Lotus stub axles (https://www.lotus-supplies.com/parts/suspension/rear-corners/outboard-shaft-lotus-tc/). I asked Andy Graham if they had been upgraded from the Imp part and he essentially said that they were obsoleted in 2000 (actually, I had gotten confused and referenced the stub axle for 336 gear box but I assume they've all been obsoleted). I guess the "Lotus" designation on the part description does not actually mean from Lotus?

[jbcollier]

Pretty much anything we buy for our Europas these days is not OEM but reproduced.  Smiths, Lucas and all the other OEM suppliers are not the same companies that existed then.  As we all know, some of this stuff is good and some crap.

You say that there can’t be that many Imps left.  Well there were a number of derivatives, and they were sold all over the world, so I expect there actually are quite a few left compared to Europa numbers.  Not that I find it a relief that rear axles made of Swiss cheese will continue to be readily available….

[BDA]

I guess we have to take our good news where and how we can!

[EuropaTC]

You say that there can’t be that many Imps left.  Well there were a number of derivatives, and they were sold all over the world, so I expect there actually are quite a few left compared to Europa numbers.  Not that I find it a relief that rear axles made of Swiss cheese will continue to be readily available….

You're right on that John, or at least inside the UK. There's a website "How Many Left ?" which tracks older cars which are either road registered or "SORN" which means they notified as "Statutory Off Road Notice" - basically in someone's garage or maybe a race car that could be road legal.

Hillman Imps - roughly 1300  -  https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/family/hillman_imp
Lotus Europa - less than half that - https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/family/lotus_europa

Granted there were probably more Lotus exported around the globe than Hillman Imps, but for someone looking to make a serious investment in tooling or stock levels, the Europa picture and potential market isn't encouraging.  The suppliers we still have really do deserve supporting.

Brian

[Pfreen]

I just checked my service record, and I rebuilt the rear hubs in 1986.  It is now 35000 miles later and still going strong.  I hope it lasts, because I remember it is a true pia.  Also, I never replaced the bearing spacer with a hardened one.  I don't think that was a thing in 1986.  I just followed the manual.  I am lucky I guess.

I have never driven in snow or mud and very little rain.  I can only imagine that is what wears out what appears to be very large bearings.

Btw, has anyone put zerk fittings in the carrier to grease the bearings?

[TurboFource]

CW put grease zerks in the rear housings on TCST and it looks like the original bearings made it 40,119 miles.

[Pfreen]

That's what I will do if there is a next time I need new bearings.

[BDA]

Well, I started taking it all apart. The side that had the bad bearings wouldn't come off at all. I started using a propane torch and went up to a map gas torch. I was using my buddy's heavy duty impact wrench (he claims it produces 450 ft-lbs) but I was using cheap pullers so it could be that I lunched the puller before I got the hub to move.

I was able to get the hub off the other (good) side. I had a bigger puller but it was cheap too and I lunched it but it got the hub off enough to get the rest off the way off by walking it off with a hammer.

The Loctite I used is what I got from r.d. many years ago. I'm wondering if whatever Ray sold me might be stronger and/or more heat resistant than I might want. If I use Loctite 635 (assuming that is not what Ray sold me), can I expect similar trouble taking it apart again (since the hope is that I put more than another 20,000 miles on the car before I die!

Looking ahead, should I need it, which Loctite should I use on the bearings in the upright?

[BDA]

CW put grease zerks in the rear housings on TCST and it looks like the original bearings made it 40,119 miles.

I remember both of my bearings were sealed so a zerk wouldn't help me but otherwise a great idea. There's a lot of volume in the upright. You should reduce that volume with something like foam first.

[Pfreen]

Seals on the outside of the bearings would work with grease in between. It seems that the dust shields can be removed on some bearings.  Maybe that is an option if the bearings have dust shields inside and out.

[jbcollier]

You can remove the rubber seal on one side, easy peasy.  There are a couple of problems:

- the upright is hollow.  You would need to limit the space into which the grease is injected and it would have to be pretty strong as pressurized grease exerts a fair amount of force.

- pressurized grease could pop off the outer seals leaving you in a worse situation.

A better way forward is to fit an outer seal like the inner seal and use open bearings.  Open bearings have a much taller face to the inner race which would make the connection to the two bearing/spacers and axle much more firm.

[TurboFource]

My housings were completely filled with grease ….was fun to clean out…you can buy bearings with seal on just one side….

[TurboFource]

Current bearing upgrade I am tinkering with....30206 tapered bearing has same ID and OD as the original Twin Cam bearings, they are about .049" thicker, clearance to be set by spacer length. 3D printed seal holder will be held in by backing plate, double-x o-ring will seal on hub OD and side of bearing (I eliminated spacer for full spline engagement....)

 I am also attempting to use gear oil as the housing will hold about 8 ounces and oil lubricated bearings have a higher speed rating and longer service life.

(Original bearing just shown for comparison.)

[Kendo]

What are you printing the seal holder in, and can it take the heat. Or is it a model to get dimensions, then you’ll machine the final holder?

[GavinT]

Turbo,

Given the trailing arm retains the outer bearing in the upright and the 30206 tapered bearing is .049" thicker, will that work?

Also, the inner bearing kinda floats and the axle assembly as a whole relies on the fixed location of the outer bearing to prevent axial movement.
Are you looking to use an opposing tapered bearing on the inside as well?