Rebuilding rear left hand hub

[europa88]

So after a local race garage installed a new radius arm here for me in the UK (They did the other side because of damage a year earlier) I heard a nasty grinding sound on some corners. Cut a long story short, a bolt had sheered in the bracket that takes the intermediate link from a banks Twin link. No problem I thought as it was a reasonable task to take the hubs apart etc etc.  But the axle nut was only still on there because of the flange washer. This was also a brand new outboard shaft so my stomach churned a bit. Any way No Loctite on the splines and both bearing run in the carriers.   The shaft could pushed and pulled by about 1/2 an inch!!

Had the hubs machined and 1mm steel inserts put in, bought new bearings and Hub as it too just slid off the splines before. Luckily the new outboard shaft was unscathed.
Now its all back together and bolts all torqued...How the hell do you get the hub on? Whereas the old one just slid off this is tight as, and I cant figure out where to put a puller (In reverse) to squeeze it on. I tapped it gently and it does indeed go part of the way. But I'm loathe to hammer it on

BTW It has a Banks rear disk conversion too

[jbcollier]

A few options:

- remove the whole arm and press on the hub using a hydraulic press.

- rig up a puller and use it to press the hub in place

- hold a HEAVY hammer on the back side of the outboard shaft and knock the hub on until you can pull it in place with the nut (the hammer at the back takes the shock load not the bearings).

[europa88]

Thanks JB...Its gonna have to be a self made puller I think. I'll try and avoid the big hammer as It means disassembling the UJ again. Although even with the puller I may have too.

[Exlimey]

http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=4421.msg49039#msg49039
You may find this home made puller/ pusher interesting.

[europa88]

For the sake of continuity I got the hubs assembled ok with a puller.
But...The amount of shims used by the garage to adjust toe-in is a lot! So much so that the tyre is fouling the wheel arch now. As I have a Banks Twinlink and the driveshafts have CV joints, is it just a question of shortening the adjustable intermediate and bottom link which will pull the hub and radius arm in and then starting again with the toe-in adjustment hopefully having created a bit more space in the wheel arch? I can ring Richard Winter but he isn't always reachable and I need the car drivable soon.

[BDA]

I have a Banks twin link too. I use a lot of washers on my radius arm pivot too so that's not unexpected.

Do you use the stock wheels and tires? Where is it fouling?

I run 205/50-15s in the rear (sorry I don't remember the wheel offset) and I don't have any fouling at all. I set the upper arm to the max before the tire hit the fender, then I adjusted the lower to get the camber I wanted. Make sure that you have the same track on both sides.

[jbcollier]

The upper link is adjustable in the Banks Twin Link set-up. So, just buy/make adjustable lower links and you can adjust your rear track to suit — just make sure both sides are the same!

[europa88]

I have a Banks twin link too. I use a lot of washers on my radius arm pivot too so that's not unexpected.

Do you use the stock wheels and tires? Where is it fouling?

I run 205/50-15s in the rear (sorry I don't remember the wheel offset) and I don't have any fouling at all. I set the upper arm to the max before the tire hit the fender, then I adjusted the lower to get the camber I wanted. Make sure that you have the same track on both sides.

The tire hits the top of the wheel arch under load, especially when accelerating. The strange thing is the other side is fine and I can get my hand between the arch and wheel...Just. But no real gap on the left hand wheel. Using Compomotive cx split rims and 185/60 13's all round and never had a problem in 30 years until now.

[europa88]

The upper link is adjustable in the Banks Twin Link set-up. So, just buy/make adjustable lower links and you can adjust your rear track to suit — just make sure both sides are the same!

I do have adjustable lower links already so I'm ready to go! Where is the best place to measure the track from as I think I may have to adjust the other side too?

[BDA]

I have a Banks twin link too. I use a lot of washers on my radius arm pivot too so that's not unexpected.

Do you use the stock wheels and tires? Where is it fouling?

I run 205/50-15s in the rear (sorry I don't remember the wheel offset) and I don't have any fouling at all. I set the upper arm to the max before the tire hit the fender, then I adjusted the lower to get the camber I wanted. Make sure that you have the same track on both sides.

The tire hits the top of the wheel arch under load, especially when accelerating. The strange thing is the other side is fine and I can get my hand between the arch and wheel...Just. But no real gap on the left hand wheel. Using Compomotive cx split rims and 185/60 13's all round and never had a problem in 30 years until now.

Unfortunately, Lotus quality control sometimes evidences itself in bodies that are not exactly symmetrical but that doesn't seem to be the case since you ran without issue for 30 years. I wonder if the upper link on the tire that's rubbing is longer than the other.

I have Compomotive CX 3 piece wheels too! 

[europa88]

My Compomotives are the same style as a Turbo Esprit fitment....Have you ever had any issues with leaking when changing tires? I could write a book about that one 

[jbcollier]

I measure and match my upper links.  Adjust camber with the lowers and then set the toe paying particular attention to the thrust angle.

[europa88]

I measure and match my upper links.  Adjust camber with the lowers and then set the toe paying particular attention to the thrust angle.

Thanks JB

[BDA]

My Compomotives are the same style as a Turbo Esprit fitment....Have you ever had any issues with leaking when changing tires? I could write a book about that one 

Mine have a cover that bolts on over the lug nuts. I've never had any problems with leaking. I noticed that there is a thick layer of silicone over where the lip and barrel are bolted to the center. I've taken my tires to regular tire shops (I make sure they are comfortable with my wheels first but I haven't had a problem with that anyway).

I did have to have one wheel straightened (actually two of my wheels were a little out of round but I only needed to have one fixed). That was a real chore finding someone who could fix it! Very few shops want to fool with them. The shop did a great job. You couldn't tell that anything had been done and the car was MUCH smoother!

You do know that Compomotive no longer make or support their three piece wheels, right? If you need a new lip or barrel, you'll have to find somebody to make them for you. Image looks like a very reasonable place for them (https://www.imagewheels.co.uk/rim-sections/).

[europa88]

Yes in the UK my experience is no one likes the early generation split rims as they use a large O ring to seal the inner flange to the outer rims! My local garage spent hours trying to rebuild mine. The trick I have found is to NOT use silicon in the O ring grooves without the O rings as many shops appear to want to do. But to put it into the large groove/gap in the middle of the wheel as this means pressure forces it to seal. Works for me and now I have no sealing issues when changing tires.

Thanks for the link BDA, as Who knows I'll probably need a new inner or outer rim at some point and the Compomotives are great wheels and much lighter than the Brand lotus alloys.