72 Europa Brakes

[jbcollier]

In general, these types of flare tools make crap single/bubble flares:

[Grumblebuns]

It's pretty much as Ken states. Making a double/inverse flare is a two step process The Eastwood/Capri type tool sold by various venders all perform in the same way. The first step produces the bubble flare. For the Europa guys, we stop here. To produce the double/inverse flare, the die is swapped around and then continue on to make the double flare. The attached picture shows the difference in the pushrods attached to the Girling and Spitfire M/Cs. The top pushrod is from the TC. The second one down is from a Spitfire with the clevis section cut off and re-threaded for the TC extension rod. The third one is from a Tilton M/C. The last is from the stock S2 Girling.

Going from memory, I did the Spitfire article several years ago so some bits may be hazy. To use the Spitfire M/C on the TC, you will have to cut off the clevis used on the Spitfire pushrod and thread the cutoff end for the stock TC brake extension rod. One issue not mentioned in the article is trouble I had in making decent threads on the Spitfire pushrod. I'm starting to wonder if the diameter of the Spitfire pushrod is smaller than the stock Girling. I'll take some measurements to verify

I forgot to add that unions come in both types of flares, bubble and double. Make sure that the union that you use matches the type of flare that you have on the tube end. Sucks when you find out that you have a bubble flare on the tube end and a double flare on the union end..

[TurboFource]

I used the one JB showed.

[Fotog]

I agree that the tool in JB's big picture is pretty  worthless.  A 'good' one of those can produce a useable flare about 25 percent of the time. 

Thanks for the additional info, Jojo.  I assume the tool you linked will indeed do the proper flare.  It's weird that they don't market them as being able to do both types.

Vince

[marks]

I purchased and received the Triumph master cylinder and i had my friend cut of the Europa master cylinder clevis and attach it to the Europa push rod.  Is there a place that I can purchase the 2 6" brake lines to attach the exiting brake lines to the left side of the Triumph master cylinder?  As a person with limited mechanical experience and a bad rotator cuff; I really appreciate the help on this board!   Sincerely, Mark

[Clifton]

I bought the cheap one and tried one flare then bought the Eastwood one. Super easy but expensive. I sold it on Ebay for almost what I paid when I was done.

https://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

[Grumblebuns]

I purchased and received the Triumph master cylinder and i had my friend cut of the Europa master cylinder clevis and attach it to the Europa push rod.  Is there a place that I can purchase the 2 6" brake lines to attach the exiting brake lines to the left side of the Triumph master cylinder?  As a person with limited mechanical experience and a bad rotator cuff; I really appreciate the help on this board!   Sincerely, Mark

It would probably be best if you had a shop make up your jumpers. A few things to keep in mind.
1. The later Spitfire M/Cs used M10x1.0 threads in their outlet ports in a bubble flare. Do not use 3/8x24 tube fittings on the Spitfire M/C. They will fit but will be on the loose side and may strip the threads of the M/C as you tighten and ruin the M/C.
2. The stock brake lines to the Girling M/Cs used two different size tubs nuts. The rear connection uses the larger 7/16x20 tube nuts for the front brake circuit and the 3/8x24 tube nuts for the front connection.
3. Remember to use fittings for 3/16" brake lines only.
4. Female tube nuts will be a bit difficult to locate especially the 7/16x20 ones. RDEnterprises sells the 3/8x24 female tube nuts.
5. If you can't locate 7/16x20 tube nuts, unions will also work. You just need to ensure that you get ones for 3/16" brake line in a bubble flare.
7. Pictures show a Spitfire installation.
 

[Exlimey]

If you need odd size fittings,try Fedhillusa. Also ,use cunifer brake line,it bends and flares much easier and does not corrode,the Eastwood tool works well with it.

[marks]

This is the information that I need with my limited abilities.  I will contact R.D...Thanks again!

[Bryan Boyle]

Any thoughts on using speedy bleed nipples on the wheel cylinders?  Don't know whether I can coerce/bribe a buddy to help me clean out the air in the system when I get there...so thinking these one-way bleed valves might be a reasonable change/item to put in the wheel ends of the system.

TIA

[Fotog]

Well, I've thought about them.  But it's just another thing (so many things!), and I have a system that I've put together for use with an air compressor that will do either vacuum or pressure bleeding (solo bleeding), so I think I'll stick with that.
... and this time I'll try doing it in the order that the shop manual says.  Hopefully that will work better.

Vince

[Fotog]

Marks...  I'm getting ready to do this (spitfire MC), and I think I will use a length of brake line that I have with my 'stuff'.  It's about 20 or so inches long with a ISO/DIN 'bubble' flare at each end.  I plan to cut it in half to make the jumpers.  Then I'll cut the ends off the old original brake lines.  I'll join those with the jumpers using SAE standard 45 degree (US style), common flares.  It will be easy to make the flares, and easy to get the couplings.  You may have difficulty finding the 7/16 tube nut that you'll need, as Joji points out.

You can probably get a piece of brake line with the bubble flares at each end from Moss Motors, British Parts Northwest, or some other place.  Maybe Ray at RD.  You don't need to be fussy about the length, as long as it's enough.

This kind of tool, OEM tools 24364, makes a good 45 deg flare.  ~$25.

-V

[Bryan Boyle]

Well, I've thought about them.  But it's just another thing (so many things!), and I have a system that I've put together for use with an air compressor that will do either vacuum or pressure bleeding (solo bleeding), so I think I'll stick with that.
... and this time I'll try doing it in the order that the shop manual says.  Hopefully that will work better.

Vince

I think that's what caught the previous mechanic (not the owner) who messed the system up; since the traditional way is starting at the furthest (from the master) rear, other rear, offside front, then nearside front in order of distance from the master....but with boosters, it turns out that you have to start at the offside FRONT and work in reverse (if you follow the piping...sending brake fluid to the back of the car then forward is a demonic design...lol).  I'm thinking of getting the beast up in the air, stripping out all the excess piping, and arranging as it was in the S2 (even with the lump still in the rear.  One, it will remove a bunch of piping, joints, and distance (and give me space on the left engine compartment wall for a coolant overflow tank) and second, one joint at the back for a proportioning valve to tame the rears when I replace the MC with a .7 or .75 dual master... 

Anyone want to shoot holes in this plan?  No sensitivity to creative observations...

[TurboFource]

I have found all the brake fittings I have so far needed at NAPA

[marks]

Having trouble finding one of the fittings, I used High pressure compression unions rated at 5000lbs, Dorman 730-5744. tried to attach a picture; however, it said the file was too large.