Tcs engine tune issues

[Sparkrite]

I am trying to get my engine to run and am having some trouble. My first question is what is the ignition points gap. My manual only covers the Renault engine. Ive set the strobe light timing ok,Ive checked the brass float gaps on the webers and they are close to 8mm. The 2 issues I have are the engine cannot handle any load ie a slight hill, and after a very short time the revs wont go below 2,000.

[Sandyman]

Sounds like a fuel / air issue. check for carb. air leak. According to the manual points gap is 14 to 16 thousands for a twin cam.

[Sparkrite]

Thanks sandyman. I put new o rings for the carb mountings, but the float bowls were only 1/3 full so I thought maybe the float settings or maybe the fuel pump diafram.

[jbcollier]

Point gap is 0.015"

We need more information.  It is not easy to diagnose running issues over-the-phone, so to speak.

What is the history of the car?  Had it a long time?  Bought it yesterday?  Ran fine for years?  Etc.

What is the state of tune of the engine?  Stock?  Hopped up?  Don't know?

What EXACTLY have you done so far?

[jbcollier]

Workshop manuals can be found here:

http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/index.htm

[Sparkrite]

the car was standing 30 years, Ive owned it a year,having done the brakes, fixed wiring, flushed the radiator,and lots of small issues Im trying to get it on the road. Its a big valve,5 speed,weber head,freeflow manifold engine. Ive put new engine and gearbox oil,checked valve gaps, cleaned and set distributor, cleaned carbs,fushed fuel tanks and put new hoses,cleaned fuel pump.
Ive run it total about 45mins

[jbcollier]

Excellent you checked the valve clearances.  Did you do a compression test?  If so, what readings?

What is your ignition timing set to?  What is it at idle?  2500 rpm and 4000 rpm?

Check your carbs specs against what is listed in the manual.  Specs are here:

http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcwork/tech/index.htm#c

The carb mounts are meant to be flexible.  Overtightening can cause issues.  Here's the manual section on carb mounting:

http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcwork/l/index.htm#8

I notice yousay you have Webers.  Are you sure?  It should have Dellorto carbs.  If it really has Webers, can you list:

carb size
model number  DCOExx-xx
Choke size
Emulsion tubes
main jets
idle jets
pump nozzles

[Sparkrite]

The compression results were quite even and over 160psi. The timing was zero at idle and about 22 at 2,000 rpm. These aren't super accurate as it was difficult to do single handed plus there was some scatter. The webers are 40 dcoe type 18.  I did not note down any of the jet sizes etc.
I took a resistance reading of the coil ar 2.9 and 7.84 but my meter could not do the condenser.

[jbcollier]

Sounds like 3 ohms on the primary and 7.8 kilo ohms on the secondary.  That's fine.

Zero at idle is low and may lead to running issues.  However, it's the full advance setting that is critical.  You'll have to fire it up and measure it.  It may not have resistor ignition wires or  resistor spark plugs and that can put out a fair amount of RFI giving modern timing lights a hard time.  Ideally you want 4° to 6° BTDC static/idle timing and 28° to 30° BTDC all in.

After we know the ignition is OK, we can tackle the carbs and fuel supply.

[Sparkrite]

Thank you for all your helpfull advice and links which I will use. I will update my progress when I can.
  I need to get it sorted as Ive booked to take it on the classic le mans this summer.

[MRN I J]

You could also check the resistance of the leads, old resistor leads can often have very high resistance leading to a poor spark

[Sparkrite]

Just a quick update, had the previous damage to the lower distributor body machined off,then a new ring heated then pressed on for a permanent solid fix. I went over the distributor and set it up to my best, reset the timing and took it out for a very quick spin. Its better than before but not great, remember these are the first drives for 30 years of standing still. The main issue now is the idle will not go down below about 2,000 rpm. Its not the cable as no change when disconnected. The idle screws are fully out.

[jbcollier]

Still would like to hear what the actual timing figures are, especially total advance.

Now to the carbs.

There are 3 screws that control idle speed (air into engine).  One on each carb that provides an stop for the arm on the throttle shaft, and one on the linkage between the two carbs.  If this last one is not correctly set, one carb will not be able to close it's throttle plates and you would get a (crappy) high idle.

Can you post photos of the throttle linkage setup on your carbs?  It has Webers so it's not stock.  Photos will help us give you better advice.

Also, what kind of insulators are between the carbs and cylinder head?  Photos of those and the carb to manifold would be great.

[Sparkrite]

The timing was about 20 degrees at 2000 rpm and about 30 degrees at 3000 rpm. It has 8 new o rings either side of the spacers and I did not overtighten the Thackeray washers.
I looked at the plugs and the rear two were black and wet ,the front two were not wet and would have got a better colour after a good run. So after trying to adjust the rear carb with no success I've pulled both carbs out for a better inspection. Ive never done a set of webers but cant imagine its hard, I just need to do a bit of reading up first.

[Clifton]

. The 2 issues I have are the engine cannot handle any load ie a slight hill, and after a very short time the revs wont go below 2,000.

Idle hanging sounds like carb. Will it idle before it's warm then hang at 2000? I don't know these carbs but Weber DGV carbs have a secondary that if plugged or partially plugged a car will run good until it's opened under load.

Did the car ever run with these carbs?