Author Topic: Getting a New Engine Started  (Read 376 times)

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Offline 4129R

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Getting a New Engine Started
« on: Sunday,October 31, 2021, 04:51:23 AM »
I bought 4259R in pieces, shipped over from Louisiana in a container with 4688R. Both cars were in very bad condition, mostly dismantled, and looked like they had been in pieces for about 30 years.

When it came time to fit a newly rebuilt engine into 4259R, it had a freshly gas-flowed Weber head, a new distributor, new HT cap and leads, new plugs, so I thought  getting it started would be easy. I was wrong.

Having gone through the leaking petrol tank drama, ignition switch rebuild, petrol delivery shortages in the UK, and locked front discs (so I could not rock the car in 2nd to get TDC), I started trying to get it started.

A new battery had been fitted, but try as I may, turning the engine over did not even get any cylinder firing.

I got my wife to turn the key, took all 4 plugs out, and all 4 were sparking.

The Webers were squirting petrol when pumped, but the plugs were not wet.

I tried squirting Easy Start into each open butterfly, but no matter how often I tried starting the engine, with jump leads from a Land Cruiser with its engine running, no cylinder fired. All 4 exhaust manifolds were stone cold.

Was it a fuel delivery problem? Surely Easy Start would get something happening. Not a squeak.

I asked a knowledgeable friend over (he helped design the De Lorean) so I explained everything to him, checked the valve timing, checked the ignition timing, and it was firing on the right cylinder, but no matter how hard we tried, there was a spark on all 4, but not a squeak.

In desperation, I had ordered a new 12v coil. It arrived yesterday lunchtime just after he left, I fitted the new coil, took the carbs off to see if I had left kitchen towel down the inlet bores, no blockage, and all 4 chokes on the 40 DCOEs squirted petrol in when the butterflies were opened. The float level was checked at 5.5mm, and the fuel pump was working correctly.

I carefully fitted the coil (I had to take the metal HT connector out of the old coil and open it up a bit with a screwdriver to accept the 8mm distributor lead) . When the carbs were off, I took the distributor out, put the engine at 10 BTDC firing on #1, and fitted a new set of points and condenser so every part of the LT and HT ignition system were new.

I timed the distributor with a resistance meter, checked 12v were at the + side of the coil, charged the battery, added jump leads to the Land Cruiser, and tried to start the engine again. 4 pumps on the pedal, then just hope.

Surprise surprise, I heard a cylinder firing. I kept the started rotating, and pumped the pedal. Oil pressure was fine, and the engine was still just firing on 1 or 2. Eventually after much throttle pumping the engine sparked into life with all 4 firing. Success.

I now need to get the engine running smoothly, but at least the bl**dy thing starts.

Moral of the story. Don't give up. Even if you have a spark with the plugs out, it may not be enough to give ignition in the cylinder. We had even tested all 4 HT leads with the timing strobe, and all 4 leads were firing, but just not strongly enough.





Offline dakazman

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Re: Getting a New Engine Started
« Reply #1 on: Sunday,October 31, 2021, 07:19:33 AM »
 :trophy: :trophy: :beerchug:

                    First of all, congratulations.

   Great story ,I was getting a little worried for you during mid story but glad you, never gave up. Now that's gotta feel good to be pasted that milestone.
 Dakazman

Offline BDA

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Re: Getting a New Engine Started
« Reply #2 on: Sunday,October 31, 2021, 07:38:18 AM »
Man, that is an amazing story! When you know you have fuel, air,, compression, and spark and still no fire, that’s a REAL head scratcher! The only thing left is to start swapping parts even if it doesn’t make any sense.

Glad you got it going finally!  :beerchug:

Offline jbcollier

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Re: Getting a New Engine Started
« Reply #3 on: Sunday,October 31, 2021, 08:40:56 AM »
Ignition voltage requirements for firing a plug are vastly higher when operating under pressure.  Plugs that fire fine in the open, may not work in the cylinder.  As the voltage rises, the chance of poor wires/cap/rotor arcing to ground increases.

Offline Lou Drozdowski

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Re: Getting a New Engine Started
« Reply #4 on: Sunday,October 31, 2021, 09:43:54 AM »
I am running around the kitchen table shouting!...Suck,squeeze,bang,blow...Hooray!

Offline 4129R

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Re: Getting a New Engine Started
« Reply #5 on: Sunday,October 31, 2021, 10:32:08 AM »
To add to the story, the new distributor did have electronic ignition fitted, but I could not statically time it, so I removed it and put in the whole LT stuff from another old distributor that had the vacuum advance fitted.

In retrospect, I should have fitted new then, but I did not remember that I had new points and condensers upstairs in the store part of my garage. It was only when I swapped the new distributor cap for another new distributor cap that I saw the points and condensers.

I also tried another second hand coil before buying a new one.