Clutch cable help needed

[dakazman]

  I purchased a VW cable awhile back as a replacement to the original.
I understood that it needed to be modified to fit . What side should I cut to install the sheath? At first I thought the interior side but do I need the longer threaded rod on the engine side that I’ll cut and reuse ?
Dakazman

[4129R]

I don't understand your question.

Do you want to install a VW inner cable in the original outer cable, and you want to know which end of the inner cable to cut off to thread it through?

[dakazman]

 That’s correct.
  It is a matter of is the vw threaded aft section being long enough to exit the sheath. I never saw this the original installed, I guess you can have some cable showing outside of the aft side.
To make it simpler I cut the longer threaded aft section off the old cable and drilled out enough to s wedge it in and hit with a weld.
  If I cut the front off the small front , I just have to swedge, crimp the new stop in place.

   Lol , never mind I now see there is a front metal bracket that the cable runs through.
I need to fabricate that first .  Now I see what keeps the cover from sliding around .I also see where the end attaches to the frame through the body shell.

I found a bracket I made up a few years back when I purchased the cable. Now I just have to fit it and mount . I think I made it to just attach to the fiberglass body that’s why it has a backing plate.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Glad you've got it figured.

Don't weld cables.  Use proper silver solder, not the plumbing stuff.  Use just enough heat otherwise you'll embrittle the cable wires.

[dakazman]

  Thanks guys, I get back to you . I think I’ll just have to crimp the front stop on, and not have to solder anything.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  After discovering a needed bracket inside the car I cut the front swedged end off. At the engine side I found the cable only runs thru the motor mount.another task will be to find the correct hardware to make the connection and research a return spring location.  I still have to cut a slot in this stainless bracket that I had made several months back along with some steel ones.
  I did manage to get the ebrake installed and working. Tomorrow maybe some rug panels cut and ready for trim .
Dakazman

[BDA]

Did you remember to lube the handbrake cable? I've heard of some who put rubber "caps" on the end of the sheath to keep as much of the lube in as possible.

[jbcollier]

I'd triangulate the body bracket.

[dakazman]

   BDA,  I did lube the handbrake assembly when I rebuilt it a year or so ago. It moves very easy.
The aft cable assembly is brand new

   JB,  not sure what you mean, triangulate . The ebrake mount holes were original, only filled in to stop the cracks the bracket can be rotated a bit with side to side movement but zero up down.

Dave

 
 

[GavinT]

Triangulate the clutch cable bracket something like this so it can resist bending.

Original brackets have the sheath hole positioned much lower/closer to the base section to minimise the bending potential.
A lower bracket also 'hides' better in the carpet when installed.

Recommend making a new part with a lower hole position so the sheath just touches the base section would work. Use probably 3/16th inch material at a minimum, I reckon.
The rigidity of this part is important for clutch feel and proper operation . . and is a PITA if it fails in the field, as it were.

I'm curious.
Does the Type 65 have the gearbox clutch lever on the left hand side?

[4129R]

I'd triangulate the body bracket.

The brackets from Banks are far stronger. There is a lot of tension on that cable when you put your foot down on the clutch pedal.

[dakazman]

   Okay, I got it now. Thanks for the pic 🙏 The original bracket was very corroded 25 years ago made of steel. I’ll beef another bracket up and install a spacer to frame which is approximately 1/4” below the glass body using the holes in frame , if there , there.

  Gavin, gearbox clutch arm is on the right side, picture 1 is from top down.

  Dave

[dakazman]

   Added some stiffeners to the bracket that is made of 301 1/2 Hard (AMS 5518) material and added an aluminum stiffener. It was easier than starting from scratch and I wanted something that wouldn’t rot under a wet rug.
  I also tried to find the holes in the frame , no such luck , they were none .
  I disassembled the steering column and will install the seal plate which has a larger diameter inner circle , then connect the internal shaft Thru the seal plate then the steering wheel assembly and lock it in place.
  My rug has been taken out of its shipping wrap and now trying to get the creases out.

Dakazman

[BDA]

That should be plenty strong enough!

[SilverBeast]

You probably know, but I dont think the self cancel clip for the indicators on the upper column inner can be moved on the column.

As the lower column section only clamps into the upper in one position ( as the flat needs to line up with the bolt used to set the impact  collapse slip friction) you need to ensure the rack is centred to the self cancel centre position when you clamp up the lower column to the rack via the universal joint.