Hole in Chassis for Handbrake Adjustment

[4129R]

I am just adjusting the handbrake cable on 4376R, with a brand new rear cable, and I have run out of adjustment in the hole in the tunnel where the threaded cable meets the big U on the rear cable.

If I can add spacers between the U and the two nuts on the thread, then I can get the required adjustment.

I have already added 1/2" spacers on the rear trailing arms, both sides, where the cable outer rests in the C bracket welded to the trailing arm, but there is only so much you can space the outer away from the C bracket before the outer becomes loose from the C bracket. 

The problem is working in the hole in the chassis.

Has anyone made the hole bigger so you can actually get a spanner/wrench, hand and torchlight/flashlight down the hole?

I thought if I cut about 2" to the rear, and about 1/2" off each side, lined the hole with cut plastic tubing so I don't lacerate my arm on the new cut edges, that would make getting to the U and adjuster nuts much easier.

I have thought on making up a metal cover plate, putting rivnuts in the chassis and bolting the cover plate in place to restore any lost rigity in the chassis.

Has anyone been down this path? Has anyone found an easy way of getting to the spring which attaches to the end of the adjuster cable and clips in the Y of the chassis?   

I feel like a gynaecologist every time I work in that hole in the chassis. It is not exactly designed to be user friendly. A larger hole would make it so much easier.

[SilverBeast]

I've come across the same issue.  If I add spacers between the nut and the u though I don't think I'll be able to adjust any more, as on mine I think the threaded portion from the cable to the front has reached the point where it is binding  in the hole through the U as it changes from the threaded to the hex section.

The other alternative would be to fit adjustable spacers between the cable outers and the back of the subframe. A bit like you have on motorbike brake levers with a slot through the thread and the "nut" so you can fit them without having to remove the cable. I'm not sure how much room there would be to do this as I am focussing on getting the cooling system sealed (aluminium header tank arrived from kelvedon this week as the one I can lovingly repainted has a pinhole in the bottom!), rebuilding carbs (so they dont leak petrol) and getting the engine running again.

[TurboFource]

If you did make the hole bigger you could flange the  edge of the hole with a "Bob stick" like I did when I opened up the hole in the front T- section for access to the steering u-joint.

[jbcollier]

A Europa chassis is not particularly stiff.  I’d be cautious about opening the access hole even more.  Stiffening it afterwards with a bolted on cover is a good idea.  I’d be more likely to go with the adjusters at each wheel.

You could also just shorten the inner cable.

[4129R]

You could also just shorten the inner cable.

The cable from the reaction lever to the U is a bitch to get to, as you have to take the reaction lever off, and getting it clipped back on to the reaction lever is a challenge.

I will space out the ends as much as I can. I am surprised the adjustment was not done there, as a threaded outer cable end and nut either side would be easy to get to.

I use 1/2" nuts as spacers, drilled to 12.5mm to remove the thread, with a slot cut in the nut to allow it to fit on the cable, similar to the clutch cable bracket bolted to the tunnel/floor.
 

[RafM]

I treat the handbrake as a 'for show only' item.

When it's adjusted enough to actually hold firm the brakes bind, when it's slackened off a bit to prevent this
happening you can move the car with a good shove. That's with the system in top order.

Personally, I also think the pivot bolt on the reaction lever is not up too the job, there is a lot of stress here if the handbrake
is pulled tightly and it's a bit flimsy.

I don't think there's anything wrong with opening up the access hole but as jbcollier said, a bolted on cover is a good idea.
If I do another body off resto there are other areas I would modify to make access easier.

[BDA]

My habit is to never use the e-brake. It may stem from a warning I got many years ago, when 4 wheel discs were not common, that using it on hot drum brakes can distort the drum since the e-brake almost always (always?) work on one shoe. Of course one reason I can have that habit is that I very rarely NEED to use an e-brake. One of the minor reasons I’m glad I don’t live in San Francisco where they are required by law.

[GavinT]

You could also just shorten the inner cable.

The cable from the reaction lever to the U is a bitch to get to, as you have to take the reaction lever off, and getting it clipped back on to the reaction lever is a challenge.

I'm guessing JB is talking about shortening the rear most double ended cable that attaches to the brake drum levers, not the front one attached to the reaction lever?

I'd think a couple of spacers is OK if it gets you out of trouble but it sounds like you're dealing with more than that.
Any boating shop should be able to cut the cable and re-swage a new end stop on the rear most cable - cheap as chips.

I'd also caution against enlarging the access hole and also have only rudimentary experience with gynaecology . . . but I'd be happy to take a look at it for you.  (I'll get my coat)

Here's what I do.
For the cable horseshoe adjustment, ditch the two nuts and use a single Nyloc - that's plenty.
Use a skinny pair of ViceGrips which will hold the threaded end of the front cable while you adjust the Nyloc.
This is a simple two stage process but it only requires one hand down the hole at a time.

[4129R]

3 x 1/8" thick with 1/2" hole washers, 2 on one side and 1 on the other, took up the slack. Any more and the drums would bind. So I have about 3/4" on one side and 5/8" on the other of spacers, to take up the slack in the cable.

The umbrella handbrake only has limited travel, and with the reaction lever on an 11" to 2" reduction ratio, so whatever movement there is on the umbrella translates to 18% of that movement on the single cable, which then translates to 9% of that movement at each end of the handbrake cable at the drum.

Not a very efficient system, to say the least.

Being the sad person I am, I measured the movement on the handle. 2 1/4" = 57mm, which equates to about 5mm at each drum lever. I think I now realise why the handbrake is just an ornament, and this is with new everything, all working as best it can.

[RafM]

I spoke to a very well know Europa specialist.

When they restored cars that were not yet exempt from an MOT test (UK road worthiness) they rigged up a switch
that turned off the brake lights, they then pressed the brakes while pulling the parking brake. That was in the days when you
sat in the car and switched stuff on and off for the tester.

[4129R]

I spoke to a very well know Europa specialist.

When they restored cars that were not yet exempt from an MOT test (UK road worthiness) they rigged up a switch
that turned off the brake lights, they then pressed the brakes while pulling the parking brake. That was in the days when you
sat in the car and switched stuff on and off for the tester.

On my other toy, a GT40, I ask for the inertia brake tester for both foot and hand brake. When it comes to pull the hand brake on, I have to do this with my right arm going across my chest to the handbrake on the tunnel high up by my left hip. At the same time I brake with my foot gently, and as the tester is in the car, he is none the wiser. 

[Broadside]

Lol, these solutions make me chuckle    The standard solution on Escort rally cars with a hydraulic handbrake (where a mechanical handbrake was still required) was to drill a hole in the transmission tunnel above the propshaft UJ and drop a screwdiver down into the joint!

[4129R]

Lol, these solutions make me chuckle    The standard solution on Escort rally cars with a hydraulic handbrake (where a mechanical handbrake was still required) was to drill a hole in the transmission tunnel above the propshaft UJ and drop a screwdiver down into the joint!

On a 6R4, I had to use a seat belt around the propshaft which tightened as the hydraulic handbrake lever was pulled. The scrutineers could not tell if it was the mechanical grip of the seatbelt or the hydraulic pressure which was holding the car still.