Author Topic: Obtaining max caster  (Read 396 times)

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Offline Clifton

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Obtaining max caster
« on: Thursday,September 02, 2021, 03:56:33 PM »


I thought I would share what I did to get the most caster I could get with the trunnions.

I pressed the rear upper control arm bushing out a little to move the arm back as far as it would go. I pressed the lower front arm bushing out a little to move the arms forward. I used 12mm washers from Ace Hardware to further shim the lower arm forward The 12mm washers fit better/tighter than standard non AN 1/2" washers and have a smaller OD. I made two 1/8" shims for the upper ball joint for easier and quicker small adjustment. Now the lower control arm has an extra 1/2" or so gap that has to be filled. Ace sells stops that are basically thick washers, 1/4", 3/8" etc. On the shocks I use the 12mm washers and on the Trunnion I used, a few AN washers against the control arms and regular mixed in for thickness shimming. Against the back of the trunnion There is a larger washer to keep it from pushing back.  When tightening the trunnion, I removed the ubj bolts and pushed it back as I tightened so when it was done it sat centered in the uca without binding.

I originally had about 3.3 degrees caster. I just re did it to get all I could and ended up with 4.4 degrees on both sides. 

Offline BDA

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Re: Obtaining max caster
« Reply #1 on: Thursday,September 02, 2021, 04:33:31 PM »
Very nice, Clifton!   :beerchug:

Offline jbcollier

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Re: Obtaining max caster
« Reply #2 on: Thursday,September 02, 2021, 04:43:00 PM »
Just be careful that the trunnions are not under tension.  They can, and I have seen them, snap the thread off the upright.  Disconnect your steering arm and swing the hub back and forth.  Turns easy?  Good.  Hard to turn and stiff?  Be concerned.  If you switch to the Canley/Caterham lower joints, then there is no problem.

Offline Clifton

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Re: Obtaining max caster
« Reply #3 on: Thursday,September 02, 2021, 05:51:45 PM »
Just be careful that the trunnions are not under tension.  They can, and I have seen them, snap the thread off the upright.  Disconnect your steering arm and swing the hub back and forth.  Turns easy?  Good.  Hard to turn and stiff?  Be concerned.  If you switch to the Canley/Caterham lower joints, then there is no problem.

I'm glad you brought that up. I have read of many trunnions breaking on Spitfires. Many of them think grease is to be used and they break, seems within a year.  I used gear oil, nothing like a oil bath.

I have zero binding. I make sure that the upper ball joint sits in between the upper arms with no force against either arm or binding after the trunnion is tightened before I put the shims in. Trunnions have a little play but not much.

I sent an email to Canley asking about shipping to which they replied and then asked about the the newer style upright and what stub to use with my hubs. Seems there are two stubs but I think only one stub works but not sure. I have my Wilwood bracket bolted to the factory caliper bracket for my caliper. If I ran the newer upright I could eliminate an extra bracket. They never replied and I was all set to order as autocross starts in two weeks.

Offline jbcollier

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Re: Obtaining max caster
« Reply #4 on: Thursday,September 02, 2021, 06:05:56 PM »
Sounds like you were very careful, good work.

+100 on using oil.

I just like to chime in where the inexperienced require caution.