Coolant line seals

[TurboFource]

I plan to fabricate new aluminum coolant lines (simplify and add lightness),

what is the best source for the grommets that go into the frame to protect them?

[LotusJoe]

RD Enterprises has then for $2.50 each.

[TurboFource]

Thanks

[Clifton]

I used .035" 1.25" aluminum.   I used the muffler clamp and washer method.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAXSwmsvqUQ  Onlinemetals ships up to 6' fairly cheap.

[TurboFource]

Thanks Clifton! I liked the bead roller......I think it could turn out better with
a little more effort than the guy in the video took!

[jbcollier]

Some sort of ridge to retain the hose is important but the pipes are a very tight fit through the grommets.  If you roll a bead, then you'll never get the pipes back out in the future.  Another way of doing it is to simple put three pop-rivets around the end of the pipe.  Works well and they are easily removed it you need to remove the pipe later on.

[BDA]

You’ve mentioned that method before, JB, and I think there’s a lot to say for it. For one thing, if you have to take the transfer tubes out you can easily drill out the rivets. It’s certainly an improvement over plain tube ends.

I would only say that I’ve never heard of anybody who’s had any problems with plain ends on the transfer tubes.

[TurboFource]

Would there ever be a reason to remove the coolant lines except to replace them?

[4129R]

Would there ever be a reason to remove the coolant lines except to replace them?

1) To clean the rust off and paint them.

2) To replace the small pipe which goes to the header tank as this rusts away.

3) To repair rusted ends.

4) To separate the chassis from the body.

[SilverBeast]

I've just drained and flushed the coolant system on my 1973 TCS, removed radiator and header tank. There were a lot of rust particles came out. Rust scales on the inside of the thermostat housing, in the radiator and the header tank.

Even squeezing the hoses when removed had rust flakes falling out.  If (more likely when) I take the engine out, I'll definitely be replacing the tubes with stainless and all new hoses. Personally I'd say if you still have the original tubes it's more than likely you'd be better off replacing them.

[GavinT]

I like the idea of ally tubes but the tight fit in the grommets is a bit of a worry.

It's pure speculation on my part but if the ally tube were to come into contact and rub the steel in the chassis hole, it wouldn't take much to cut through it.
On an S2, the engine outlet tube is bolted to the chassis, whereas the inlet tube is free to move about as the engine rocks & rolls. Is it similar on the TC cars?

[BDA]

The transfer tubes in TCs are held with snuggly with grommets. There are no attachments to the frame.

Turbo, I think you should use the grommets that are a snug fit in the frame and where the tubes are a snug fit. In other words, I would use the approved grommets from one of the usual suspects (DBE, rd, Lotus Supplies, etc.) and get alloy tubes with the same OD as the stock tubes.

[jlmullen2]

I just completed this process on my 73 TCS. I purchased the new alloy coolant tubes and rubber grommets from RD . Other than a slight difficulty in removing one of the old rusty coolant tubes the job went much better than anticipated. I had a helper at the front while I stood in the engine bay and pushed the new tubes thru the chassis holes. I did use some lube on both the tubes and inner part of the grommets but did not feel any significant resistance. I would suggest you place the rear of the car on big jackstands to give you maximum room to wiggle the new tubes into place.