3776R unusual clutch action

[Sparkrite]

I have been very busy sorting my fuel tanks and fuel hoses,sorted 90% of the wiring issues (eaten by rodents), completely serviced the braking system, dismantled and cleaned the twin 40 carbs,plus a whole heap more in order to test start the engine.
Well, over 6 months since I acquired this 73 tcs,the engine fired up,good oil pressure and ran a bit rough but at least it runs and sounds strong. I will set the timing and tune up the carbs later.
As I put it into first gear and tried to slowly let out the clutch, it was very hard to keep gradual, it just bit and lurched forward. I have barely driven it a few yards but at least the clutch is not seized and I can engage 1st and reverse gear. The problem is the clutch pedal needs more pressure than any other car I have driven and in particular at the biting point. Is this normal and if not what could it be,( note the car had been unused for about 20 years).

[4129R]

If the cable moves freely, then IMHO, it is the cable clutch which you are not used to. The first time I drove one, I had great difficulty with the clutch being heavy. You get used to it in time.

[BDA]

No, that's unusual. Usually the clutch sticks to the flywheel and you have to start it in 1st gear and drive it around till it breaks free.

4129R is probably right about getting used to the cable, but you might want to make sure everything moves smoothly before you decide what the problem is or isn't.

[jbcollier]

Make sure the cable housing anchor points are still there.  If not the cable action is augmented by the engine movement as you release the clutch.  This leads to jerky, unpleasant action.

[Arizona]

If the cable anchor point is on the frame that will cause the jerkiness. Moving it to the engine block will eliminate it.

[4129R]

If the cable anchor point is on the frame that will cause the jerkiness. Moving it to the engine block will eliminate it.

There is a bracket which attaches to the left side of the block which holds the cable outer in place.

I have only had 1 car where the bracket was welded to the chassis.

[dakazman]

   Thanks for posting this at this time. Routing my cable now and I don’t have a bracket, t may be in a box somewhere around here. 🙏 Can you post a picture of it ?
Dakazman

[Bainford]

If the cable anchor point is on the frame that will cause the jerkiness. Moving it to the engine block will eliminate it.

There is a bracket which attaches to the left side of the block which holds the cable outer in place.

I have only had 1 car where the bracket was welded to the chassis.

The bracket for mine (3682R) is welded to the frame. I have just recently purchased an engine mounted bracket from RD Enterprises, though have yet to fit it.

[Arizona]

   Thanks for posting this at this time. Routing my cable now and I don’t have a bracket, t may be in a box somewhere around here. 🙏 Can you post a picture of it ?
Dakazman

This from the Rdent.com

[dakazman]

  Thanks guys,
 I went to see where it was mounted for an S2,  Not needed , nor is it on the frame. 🤪🥱 It’s on the bell housing or better stated it part of the housing itself. Renault build.  I had a bolt going thru it to hold the flywheel cover plate secured.
Dakazman

[Sparkrite]

My anchor point is welded to the chassis but I cant see this being the culprit as the high pressure point is also felt when using the pedal without the engine running. I released the cable from the clutch lever arm and though there is some stiffness this would easily be overcome by the clutch pull on the lever arm.I had no success in trying to manually move the lever arm to isolate the possible problem.  Another thing I have noticed is when the clutch pedal is in rest position there is no spring preventing it from traveling more towards the driver. All I have is a small thin metal rod welded to the base of the pedal which acts as a stop when it hits the floor.

[SilverBeast]

My anchor point is welded to the chassis but I cant see this being the culprit as the high pressure point is also felt when using the pedal without the engine running. I released the cable from the clutch lever arm and though there is some stiffness this would easily be overcome by the clutch pull on the lever arm.I had no success in trying to manually move the lever arm to isolate the possible problem.  Another thing I have noticed is when the clutch pedal is in rest position there is no spring preventing it from traveling more towards the driver. All I have is a small thin metal rod welded to the base of the pedal which acts as a stop when it hits the floor.

That thin metal rod is factory standard. You bend it to set the pedal up position, as per the manual.

[Arizona]

  Thanks guys,
 I went to see where it was mounted for an S2,  Not needed , nor is it on the frame. 🤪🥱 It’s on the bell housing or better stated it part of the housing itself. Renault build.  I had a bolt going thru it to hold the flywheel cover plate secured.
Dakazman

Right you are. The bracket is only needed on the early TC's. At some point Lotus switched from the frame mounting. I should have caught that.

[Lotsof 3146 R]

3146R had the clutch on the chassis, what a difference it made changing to an engine mount. The bracket can be supplied from banks.

[TurboFource]

My 3496R has it on the chassis...when did it switch? What does the engine mounted bracket look like?